How to assemble a homemade ATV. Homemade ATV based on Oka and VAZ units. Nuances when operating a homemade “quad”

08.10.2021

How to do homemade quad bike- a question that is the dream of almost every young designer.

However, not everyone’s dreams of this kind come true and not at the age at which they would like. But sometimes dreamers still make their dreams come true.

Drawing skills, the ability to carry out complex technological processes, the availability of funds and time - these are the basic requirements when creating a homemade vehicle.

Today we will tell you how to construct a homemade ATV using spare parts from Oka and show this process with the help of a photo selection.

You can find out one of the ways and see the reality of creating an ATV yourself from car parts in the example below.

Do-it-yourself all-wheel drive ATV based on the OKA car (amateur designer Sergey Pletnev)

To begin with, let's give General characteristics project:

Length – 2300 mm;
Width – 1250 mm;
Height – (extreme points of the wheels) – 1250 mm;
Base – 1430 mm;
Ground clearance – 300 mm;
The engine came from an OKA car;
Wheels – rims: “VAZ” 2121 (Niva);
Tires - CoordiantOffRoadR15;
Shock absorbers - “OKA”;
Hubs – “VAZ” 2109;
Inter-wheel gearboxes – “VAZ” classic
Maximum speed – 60 km/h
The gearbox taken from OKI was modified by replacing the standard main pair of gears with a chain drive.

This was done to increase speed on a flat road. And it looks like this:

Assembled

Disassembled

Water pipes (VGP 25x3.2) act as load-bearing parts of the frame. They were purchased in the form of two pieces of 7900 mm each and weighing 38 kg for the amount of 1150 rubles.

For the levers and suspensions, water pipes (VGP 20x2.8) were also required - two sections 6100 mm long, weighing 20 kg, cost 650 rubles.

Two used rear axles from a “kopek” (VAZ 2101) - a total of 3,000 rubles.

From the “eight” (VAZ 2108) we took the cams assembled with discs, calipers, etc. + drive shafts - in total, 4,000 rubles were spent for all these used parts.

Metal sheets, nuts, bolts, washers, silent blocks, etc. came in handy - there should always be enough consumable fastening devices and materials for such things.

From the above parts, using welding, a pipe bender and plumbing tools, this design was created.

Most of the structural parts are held together by welding. A carburetor was installed.

Carburetor of a homemade four-wheel drive ATV

Metal strips for the suspension, engine and axles are also secured with welded seams

The hubs are connected to the suspension with new fittings, washers and bolts

After the frame was assembled, calculations began on the nuances of the engine position, the functionality of the gearbox and its mounting, as well as the front suspension with steering.

As a result, the following moves were used:

The axle shafts are connected to the hubs from the rear post. Welded mount for shock absorbers

The gearbox uses a homemade extended rod

The picture shows how the fastening for the box was installed and the position of the rod from the outside

The steering knuckle is taken from a VAZ 2109 and the steering bipod is made of a metal plate independently

After a short test drive, it was noticed that a rocker would be needed for the gearbox stem to change gears by hand - this is the most convenient option in the case of a modified gearbox.

It must be said that it was modified to increase the gear ratio from the axle to the wheels, since without this intervention the speed at maximum speed would not have reached above 45 km/h.

Further assembly

Side steps are welded to the frame, a front axle is installed, a cardan from the gearbox is connected to the front axle, and front shock absorbers are installed. Front axle shafts are connected to the hubs and axle

The brake system is installed separately for the rear wheels

Steering and braking system for front wheels installed

Off-road tires purchased (in this case the most suitable option)

The stage of creating the ATV matrix has arrived. Polyurethane foam, cardboard, resin, fiberglass, reinforcement, etc. came in handy.

The technology of using materials when creating a matrix is a very complex process that requires deep and detailed study

Light reinforcement and cardboard form the frame of the wings, as well as the front and rear parts of the cladding. Foam was poured in excess into the places where convex shapes were supposed to be made.

The dried foam was processed with a file, jackhammer, knife and other tools

An oil cooler from a helicopter was installed and the first layer of fiberglass was applied

The front suspension is completely assembled. Original ball VAZ 2109 from below. On top is a steering tip from a UAZ

Finished surface. Side view

The hubs were adjusted to the NIVA wheels using special adapters

Side view of the hub

The matrix is almost ready. Additional frame parts have been prepared for use as a trunk and a bumper at the same time.

The seat is homemade. The steering wheel is borrowed from the Minsk motorcycle. Control elements were connected to it.

ATV painting

Painted suspension elements

Assembly

The final part of the work is assembly.

Homemade mufflers were used. A plastic canister is used as a gas tank. Electronics installed.

From a different angle.

End of work

Completed work.

The panel was borrowed from the OKA car.

We present the ATV of our regular author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. The next machine he built testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself...

A year of work for 3 - 4 hours after work and on weekends - and new car was ready for testing, only minor (and I would say pleasant) modifications remained: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

DIY Oka ATV

The power unit for my homemade ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooling. And if its power was often not enough for a car, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

The machine frame is spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipelines with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical one. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "to the cold." Eyelets (pairs of ears) for attaching the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as the components and assemblies were mounted (in "place").

All-terrain vehicle transmission- peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, it does not have a transfer case. As you know, in the "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. That's just myself power unit, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mostly "VAZ" models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be finalized. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod also made another one - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: for engaging 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.

Interwheel gearboxes- from rear axles VAZ “classics”, only their axle shafts along with the “stockings” were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints as hinges are also used in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.

There are no low gears or differential locks.

Steering- motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. The steering wheel was first used from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed from the Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. At the lower end it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.

The bipod is made of steel sheet 8 mm thick in a shape resembling the letter "T". A hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made at the edge of the "rack" - a steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for ball tips of steering rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The lugs of the bipod are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

ATV wheels- 15-inch, from a Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with appropriate rim size 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The running diameter of the wheel is about 660 mm.

Wheel suspension - independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car " Oka"(rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both of them had to be improved. I installed wheel studs from the Niva in the hubs, and home-made swing arms in the front fists.

The muffler is homemade, two-section. To protect against temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.

DIY ATV body kit

ATV body kit with your own hands - fiberglass. I glued it in for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out - this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

First, I made the required body kit contours from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe easily bends even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be possible to cut off the “tacks” without difficulty. Then he bent the “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, he attached separate strips from the same hardboard. The front end was made with polystyrene foam purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same mounting foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it is well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into the overall structure on polyurethane foam.

DIY ATV drawings

Click->zoom in

DIY ATV frame drawings

The false tank is of complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of the hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the place intended for it with layers of mounting foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry inside. Filled in until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw out the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse sandpaper.

Under the dashboard, a part went into action dashboard"Oki". I fixed it on the blank, too, with the help of mounting foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the workpiece with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, putting plaster and painting the block could be neglected.

So, the blockhead is ready and to glue a high-quality product, it was required: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 linear meters of thin fiberglass fabric, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly advisable to wear breathing protection. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable they are. But, as you know, you can’t buy experience, so I gained it in the process of work.

I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the block and the product. The whole idiot covered it with stripes carefully, without any omissions. It only took 1.5 rolls of wide tape.

I diluted the resin in 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before this, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases would lie on flat surfaces, and on uneven surfaces, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass stretches moderately along the diagonal of the weaves, “flowing around” the desired shape.

First, I thickly smeared one section of the block with epoxy resin, put fiberglass on it and impregnated it with resin on top. The adjacent piece of fabric was glued using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. We had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also heated the resin a little near a powerful lighting lamp for better fluidity.

After covering the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to cover it with glass mat. The fiberglass mat I got was quite thick, and it turned out to be good for gaining the thickness of the product. But it does not hug uneven surfaces, so I used it only on flat (or slightly sloping) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. Just keep in mind that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate glass mat, so you need to dilute it more. After gluing the glass mat, uneven surfaces were glued in several layers with cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little, so that the resin would not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day of break it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin cures completely during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even just one layer.

Since I needed the surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and I didn’t have enough experience, dips and holes still remained - I filled them with resin alone, and with pieces of fiberglass applied on others. There wasn't enough resin. I already bought more at the hardware store, in boxes. I liked working with it more because it was already packaged, and all I had to do was mix the ingredients. And it dried faster than the one purchased from the company.

After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and rear, false tank with seat, front fenders and front end. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands while picking, he separated the product piece by piece without much effort from the blockhead.

Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, ordinary preparatory and painting work using “all” technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstakingly filling the recesses with putty and fiberglass; then grinding the outer surface and priming with a plasticizer. Finally - metallic painting and varnish coating with a plasticizer.

The blockhead also carefully cut it off and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded “in place” mounts on the frame.

Finally, I welded front and rear luggage racks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kangaroo bars” that replaced the bumpers.

DIY ATV video

A year has passed since I left the garage and tried out my first ATV with rear drive wheels (). And then the thought came: shouldn’t we now make an all-wheel drive ATV (from the English. All Terrain Vehicle - all-terrain vehicle; similar machines received this international designation).

Fortunately, at this time a buyer turned up for the buggy (), and the proceeds went towards the implementation of a new project.

A year of work of 3-4 hours after work and on weekends - and the new car was ready for testing, only minor (and I would say pleasant) modifications remained: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

The power unit for my ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

1 - front wheel (from a Chevrolet Niva car, 2 pcs.);

2 - engine (from the car "Oka");

3 - front wheel drive transmission;

4 - gearbox (from the car "Oka");

5 - rear wheel drive transmission;

7 - rear wheel (from a Chevrolet Niva car, 2 pcs.);

8 - fuel tank(20 liter canister);

9 - rear trunk;

10 - silencer;

11 - passenger backrest (headrest from the Oka car);

12 - saddle;

13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);

14 - gear lock lever;

15 - body kit (fiberglass);

16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);

17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");

18 - front trunk

The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is unique. Although the car is all-wheel drive, it does not have a transfer case. As you know, in the "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. It’s just that the power unit itself, interlocked with the clutch “basket” and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly VAZ models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be finalized. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod also made another one - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: for engaging 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.

Interwheel gearboxes - from the rear axles of the VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts, together with the "stockings", were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints as hinges are also used in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.

1 - motor (from the car "Oka");

2 - clutch (from the car "Oka");

3 - gearbox;

4 - CV joint (from the car VAZ-2108, 12 pcs);

5 - final drive gearbox with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);

6 - shaft (from a VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);

7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")

There are no low gears or differential locks.

The steering is motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with tie rods) at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. The steering wheel was first used from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed from the Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. At the lower end it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.

Wheels - 15-inch, from the Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with appropriate rim size 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The running diameter of the wheel is about 660 mm.

1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

3 - rack (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

5 - rear brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

7 - front brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

8 - upper support of the front shock absorber (corner 35 × 35);

9 - rack of the upper support of the front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);

10 - front engine mount support post (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

11 - rear support leg of the engine mount (sheet s3.2 pcs.);

12 - eyelets for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);

13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

14 - upper cross connection (pipe d20x2.8);

15 - lower cross connection (pipe d20x2.8.2 pcs.);

16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);

17 - front console of the steps (pipe d20x2);

18 - rear console of the steps (pipe d20x2);

19 - connection of the front and rear consoles of the steps (pipe d20x2);

20 - footrest cross member (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);

21 - lug for fastening a fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)

The wheel suspensions are independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both of them had to be improved. I installed wheel studs from the Niva in the hubs, and home-made swing arms in the front fists.

Silencer - self-made, two-section. To protect against temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.

ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out - this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

(a - upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm front suspension; c - lower arm of the rear suspension; g - upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except those specifically noted, are made of VGT-20 pipe):

1 - beam (2 pcs.);

2 - cross member;

3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);

4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);

5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the Zhiguli car)

First, I made the required body kit contours from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe easily bends even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be possible to cut off the “tacks” without difficulty. Then he bent the “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, he attached separate strips from the same hardboard. The front end was removed with expanded polystyrene purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same mounting foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it is well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into the overall structure on polyurethane foam.

1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);

2 - steering wheel connection plate (steel, sheet s6);

3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

4 - detachable bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (kapron, sheet s18);

5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);

7 - steering limiter (steel, sheet s6);

8 - bearing housing;

9 - thrust tip (steel, circle 15);

10 - thrust bearing

Falshbak - complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of the hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the place intended for it with layers of mounting foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry inside. Filled in until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse-grained sandpaper.

Part of the Oka dashboard was used under the instrument panel. I fixed it on the blank, too, with the help of mounting foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the workpiece with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, putting plaster and painting the block could be neglected.

So, the blockhead is ready and to glue a high-quality product, it was required: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 linear meters of thin fiberglass fabric, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly advisable to wear breathing protection. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable they are. But experience, as we know, cannot be bought, so I gained it in the process of work.

I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the block and the product. The whole idiot covered it with stripes carefully, without any omissions. It only took 1.5 rolls of wide tape.

After covering the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to cover it with glass mat. The fiberglass mat I got was quite thick, and it turned out to be good for gaining the thickness of the product. But it does not hug uneven surfaces, so I used it only on flat (or slightly sloping) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. Just keep in mind that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate the fiberglass mat, so you need to dilute it more. After gluing the fiberglass mat, uneven surfaces were glued in several layers with fabric. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little, so that the resin would not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day of break it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin cures completely during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even just one layer.

Luggage racks:

a - front; b – rear

The blockhead also carefully cut it off and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded “in place” mounts on the frame.

Finally, I welded front and rear luggage racks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kangaroo bars” that replaced the bumpers.

Basic data of the ATV:

Weight, kg……………………………………………………430

Length, mm……………………………………2300

Width, mm

(on the outer sidewalls of the tires)………1250

Height, mm:

on the steering wheel………………………………………….1250

on the saddle……………………………………………………..900

Ground clearance, mm………………….300

Base, mm…………………………………………1430

Track, mm………………………………………………………1045

Maximum speed, km/h…………….65

S. PLETNEV, Ocher, Perm region

An ATV from a store is not a pleasure accessible to everyone. Therefore, many craftsmen make quadrics with their own hands. And in this article we will talk about the most interesting of them.

In making an ATV, everything that can be found in the garage and nearby can be useful. Each vehicle something made with your own hands is unique and individual, so it’s difficult to talk about drawings and diagrams.

Few people describe in detail the process of building their brainchild, which makes it extremely difficult to find specific information. But there are exceptions.

How to make an ATV with your own hands

in 2012, the talented designer S. Pletnev shared the drawings and nuances of building his brainchild.

What was used in the design of the vehicle:

Front and rear wheels from Niva Chevrolet 15 inches
Engine a-m Oka
Oka gearbox
Inter-wheel gearboxes from the rear axles of the VAZ “classic”
CV joint from a VAZ-2108 car, 12 pcs.
Fuel tank 20l canister
Passenger support from the headrest of the Oka
Clutches from Oka
Steering wheel from a Ural motorcycle"
Instrument panel from Oka car

Main technical characteristics of the ATV:

ATV drawings:

The transmission is made from AvtoVAZ units with some modifications. For example, to reduce speed and increase torque, a chain drive was used instead of the main pair.

Inter-wheel gearboxes are borrowed from the classics, the axle shafts are removed and replaced with CV joints from the front-wheel drive VAZ. Constant velocity joints are also used in other transmission units.

The suspension is independent on triangular wishbones. Shock absorbers from Oka.

Homemade muffler of 2 sections, insulated with asbestos.

The body kit is made of fiberglass. The creation of such plastic took 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer and the same amount of hardener. 15 meters of fiberglass and 5 meters of glass mat.

The bumpers and guardrails are welded from 20mm round pipes.

Photo of the finished ATV:

Material based on the article: http://modelist-konstruktor.com/razrabotki/853

ATV from a motorcycle

This quad is made on the basis of the Ural motorcycle.

All the details are in the video.

ATV with IZh Jupiter engine. Transfer case from Ant motorcycle.

ATV Cobra MIX

Generator, forced cooling, lowering gear, electric starter from tens, engine from a Ural motorcycle.

Video of a homemade ATV in action:

Homemade buggy "Raptor"

Homemade ATV with an Oka engine

Currently, the ATV is a popular vehicle. It is quite easy to operate, has good maneuverability and a high degree of maneuverability.

However, such an all-terrain vehicle is quite expensive and not everyone can buy it. Don't be discouraged, but you can try to make it yourself. How to make an ATV with your own hands? Our recommendations will help.

If you are the owner of an old motorcycle and it is gathering dust in the garage, then do not rush to dispose of it. The Ural model is excellent for processing into an ATV.

Assembly of the all-terrain vehicle will consist of the following stages:

frame modification;
installation of the instrument frame;
engine installation;
suspension installation.

What is needed for work:

bridge;
shock absorbers;
welding machine;
Bulgarian;
brake system;
Tie Rod;
metal profile sheet;
motorbike.

Before you start assembling, you should decide on the type of control of your homemade ATV. It can be motorcycle and steering.

The next step is to modernize the frame; for this, the tubes of the vertical seatposts must be moved back 40 mm. Next, we weld the bridge to the Ural swingarm, slightly trim the lower fork and seatposts. Next to the bushings of the pendulum suspension, we weld struts made from pipes.

We shorten the bridge to make the vehicle compact and more maneuverable. Now we are making a driveshaft, which can be constructed from Oka axle shafts.

We need square pipes 25*25*2 mm for the manufacture of the front suspension. You can borrow steering knuckles from a Zhiguli car. Close attention needs to be given brake system. It is better to purchase it separately to ensure maximum safety.

When all the main elements are assembled, you can begin installing headlights, turn signals and brake lights. We cover the ATV with a profile and prepare it for painting.

ATV from the Izh motorcycle

If you don’t even have such a motorcycle, you can purchase it for a very nominal fee. Which will be much cheaper than buying an expensive vehicle.

The fundamental difference between assembling an ATV from Izh is not particularly different from assembling an all-terrain vehicle from Ural.

ATV from scooter

An excellent homemade ATV can be made from a scooter. We begin the work process by drawing up drawings that you can make yourself and slightly rework the frame. Next we install the engine. We connect the engine shaft with the gear of the rear axle of the ATV using an ordinary chain drive. We bring the controls to the frame and secure the pedals and control levers.

It is better to use components from the same scooter, but it is better to borrow a fuel tank from a motorcycle. The control can be set to steering or motorcycle, whichever suits you best; the brake lever must be secured to the transmission brake on the rear axle sprocket.

For the body kit we use material from old automotive equipment or fiberglass.

ATV from the Oka car

You can breathe new life into an old car by trying to build an excellent homemade ATV out of it. Your whole family will love it.

We start by studying professional drawings. We modernize the body - remove the doors and ceiling. For comfort we use comfortable seats. Next we install the engine and muffler.

We attach the wheels to the frame using shock absorbers and original suspensions. It's worth thinking about which one clearance you will need it and take care of it in advance. The most important thing remains the brake system. You should not try to save on this element. We will use the brakes from a motorcycle. You can install a motorcycle steering wheel or leave it as original. It is important to securely fasten the tie rods. The body is sheathed in metal and painted.

Children's homemade ATV

Having an all-terrain vehicle is even more important for families with children. There is no better gift for a child than a miracle car made by dad. When manufacturing a children's all-terrain vehicle, we pay special attention to safety. After all, we are talking about the health and lives of children.

What is needed for a children's ATV

We decide on the dimensions and appearance. The possibilities are unlimited, everything will depend only on your skills and efforts.

We draw up a drawing, it’s easy to do it yourself. The main stage is making the frame. For it, you can use a ready-made model or weld it from a square profile (25x25mm). If you make a frame with your own hands, then you need to pay due attention to the quality of the welding seams. We will buy new wheels; we choose them depending on the age of the child and the quality of the road surface.

The choice of engine is quite wide. An electric motor from a Volga or scooter will do. We will install the battery in such a way that there is no need to disassemble the entire structure for recharging.

After assembling all the main components, the most enjoyable part of the work begins. You can use a body kit from some old and unusable model of a children's ATV, or you can use your imagination and come up with a new original idea.

A DIY 4x4 children's ATV will significantly save your budget, bring joy to your child, and working together will bring the whole family together.

P.S. Homemade ATVs are not easy to make with your own hands. If something didn’t work out right away, think about what and where you made a mistake. Thomas Edison made 10,000 unsuccessful attempts! before he invented light bulb. And you will definitely succeed.