Engine blocking in the system Pandora can be done in three ways:

1. Using one of the relays built into the base unit (to organize blocking of any circuit, with a maximum current of no more than 9A). Factory setting CH10.
2. Using one of the relays built into the base unit to organize the ignition blocking (no more than 9A). To do this, you need to connect the ignition to the gap and select the ignition connection option accordingly, p.II-8.5 of the programming menu.
3. Using conventional automotive external relays controlled from timer channels (CH1-CH12) and programmed to control the blocking relay
4. Using code relays controlled by a dynamic code over a single wire. It is possible to connect to a timer channel (CH1-CH12) (factory setting CH4).

By increasing the number of locks and using various methods of organizing the lock, you can achieve a very high anti-theft resistance of the system. It is recommended to organize at least two locks with different operating logic.

Connecting code blocking relays.

For the maximum level of anti-theft resistance, use the ability to connect a single-wire hidden locking relay with a dynamic code BM-103/105 (purchased separately).

The advantages of this blocking method are that even if the base unit of the system is detected, the hidden relay cannot be turned on by simply applying power or shorting the wire to ground. The relay has small overall dimensions and can be hidden in the wiring harness.

The relay is connected as follows:

1. Strip the ends of the wires coming out of the relay.
2. Connect one of the “Black” wires coming from the relay to the output of the timer channel (CH4 by default), connect the second to the wire of the car’s standard wiring, where “+12V” appears when the ignition is on; the polarity of the “Black” wires of the relay is not important. You must make sure that the “+12V” wire selected for connection does not lose power while driving.
   NOTE: in the modified BM-103d relay, the wire connected to “+12V” is red.
3. Break the car's blocked circuit, connect two “Grey” wires from the blocking relay (NR blocking) into the gap.
4. Close the “Green” wire “Training” coming from the relay: to the output of the timer channel (CH4 by default) for VM-103; to ground - for VM-105
5. In the “disarmed” mode, turn on the ignition twice with a pause of at least 2 seconds. When the ignition is turned on for the second time, if the training was successful, the relay should turn on. If it does not turn on, then turn off and turn on the ignition again.
6. Turn off the ignition.
7. Disconnect the “Green” wire and securely insulate it. Turn on the ignition - the relay should turn on.
8. Mask the relay in the wiring harness with insulating tape.

Most often, interlocks are installed on the following car circuits:

• ignition circuits;
• starter circuits;
• fuel pump electrical circuits;
• engine sensor circuits;
• injector circuits;
• fuel pump, by installing an additional electromechanical valve (not included in the kit).

It must be remembered that locks that are highly resistant to hacking can only be obtained using a non-standard approach.

It should be taken into account that the locking method should not create problems while the car is moving and reduce controllability. If this requirement is not observed, in the event of emergency situations, the manufacturer shall not be held liable.

To power coded blocking relays, you should select vehicle circuits in which the +12V voltage does not disappear while driving, even temporarily.

Relay

Relays are often used when installing security equipment.

The relay consists of two main parts - a winding with a core (electromagnet) and a group of contacts. Both of these parts are combined in one housing. When voltage appears on the winding, one of the relay contacts is attracted to the electromagnet and closes with the other. At the same time, an opening with the third contact can occur.

Based on the type and number of contacts, relays can be divided into several groups.

1. Relay with normally open contacts. In the initial state, the output contacts are open, no current flows through them. When the relay is activated, the contacts close, and electric current begins to flow in the circuit where the relay is connected. This type of contact is called HP (normally open). In English literature it is designated NO (normally-open).

3. The contact can be a changeover contact. In the initial state, one of the two circuits is closed; after the relay is activated, the first circuit is broken, and the second is closed. Such a relay has one common contact for two circuits, that is, the circuits are not independent. In English terminology - CO (change-over) or DT (double-throw).

Basic relay parameters that you need to know to make the right choice when installing security equipment:

The permissible current that the relay can pass through its output contacts;

Type of output contacts (NO, NC, switching), number of these contacts;

Relay current consumption, operating voltage;

Dimensions (which is especially important for performing invisible blocking).

Let's try to understand these parameters in more detail.

The permissible current supplied to the contacts is determined both by the dimensions of the relay itself and the materials used in it. For example, in expensive relays the contacts are placed in a sealed capsule filled with an inert gas. This allows you to prevent contact oxidation and increase its reliability. If you choose the wrong relay based on power, then there is a high risk that at the most crucial moment it will fail and damage the vehicle’s equipment. For example, exceeding permissible switching currents can lead to a short circuit, and exceeding control currents can lead to a fire.

To control several circuits independent of each other at the same time, there are relays that have not one pair of contacts, but two or more.

The type of output contacts is determined based on which circuit needs to be blocked and at what point in time. For example, you need to open the trunk on command from an additional alarm output. The power of the additional channel is not enough to directly connect it to the trunk activator. Therefore it is necessary to use a relay. In order for the relay to close the activator power circuit only when a control pulse appears at the additional alarm output, it is necessary to use a relay with a pair of normally open contacts. It will work like this: in the initial state there is no control signal, the relay is de-energized, the activator circuit is open. As soon as a pulse appears, the relay closes the output contacts, current flows through the activator, and the lock opens.

Current consumption is also important, because a relay that is incorrectly selected for this parameter can drain the battery in a short time. For example, when installing an alarm system, an additional engine blocking was made using a conventional automotive 4-pin relay. When armed, it turns on and breaks some significant circuit (for example, a fuel pump wire). However, when turned on in this way, current will flow through the relay winding. Although this current is small (approximately 0.05 - 0.1 A), 2 - 3 such blockages can drain all the energy from the battery in less than 3 weeks of inactivity.

In this case, you should use a different blocking circuit (the relay will break the protected circuit only when the ignition is turned on).

Relays can be divided into non-polarized and polarized. A non-polarized relay is usually large in size, consumes more current and is capable of switching a larger load.

For example, a typical automotive non-polarized relay draws 0.1 A of current and is capable of switching currents up to 40 A.

A polarized relay has two stable states and consumes current only at the moment of switching. This relay can switch up to 10 A. Now polarized relays are rarely used; in most cases they can be replaced with logic chips.

When triggered, self-induction current surges occur in the windings of large relays, which can be quite significant. To prevent these surges from causing malfunctions in the alarm system, it is strongly recommended to shunt the winding of any relay with a diode, that is, solder a rectifier diode between two input contacts so that the anode of the diode is

connected to ground, and the cathode to the contact on which the plus appears. In this case, the diode will not affect the control signal, since with reverse voltage the diode resistance is very high. When an inductive surge occurs, all the current will pass through the diode and will be extinguished by it.

Why do you need to install a relay in a car? Let's start with the definition:

What is a relay and what is it for?

Relay- an electrical device (switch) designed to close and open various sections of electrical circuits for given changes in electrical or non-electrical input quantities.
Types of relays may differ in the control signal and in design, we will not dwell on this, especially since all this is on the same Wikipedia. We only note that electric (electromagnetic) relays are most widespread.

Understand what is a relay for? It’s difficult to define, so let’s break it down in simple words:
The relay is designed for switching large load currents. In other words, it is a switch, or even simpler - the principle of operation of a relay - with a small current (for example, a button signal) to turn on circuits with a large current. And a relay is used when the actuator (starter, generator, fan, heated mirrors, horn, etc.) consumes more current (up to 30-40 amperes).

FOR EXAMPLE: In order to start the engine with a small button, it is necessary for the starter to turn on, which consumes from 80 to 300 amperes. If you do not use a relay, then the button will not withstand high current and will melt, as well as the wiring, which is not intended for high currents. Therefore, a connection is made through a relay (a relay is installed between the button and the starter), which, based on a small current impulse from the button, closes powerful contacts within itself, thereby turning on the starter. How does this happen?

Relay device

The electromagnetic relay consists of:

1. electromagnet (represents an electric wire wound on a coil with a core of magnetic material).
2. armatures (a plate made of magnetic material that controls contacts through a pusher).
3. switches (can be making, breaking, switching).

When an electric current is passed through the winding of an electromagnet, the resulting magnetic field attracts an armature to the core, which moves through a pusher and thereby switches the contacts.

Relay characteristics and manufacturers

Relay characteristics

• Power supply range: 8...16V.
• Rated voltage: 12V.
• Control current: no more than 0.2A.
• Operation voltage: not less than 8.0V.
• Release voltage: 1.5...5.0V.
• Maximum current in the power circuit: 30A.
• Active winding resistance: 80±10 Ohm

Domestic relays

• 90.3747-10 in a plastic case without mounting flange;
• 90.3747 - in a plastic case with a mounting flange;
• 113.3747 - in a metal case with a mounting flange;
• 113.3747-10-in a metal case without mounting flange;
• 111.3747 - in a metal case with a mounting flange;
• 111.3747-10-in a metal case without mounting flange.

Which relay is better, imported or domestic?
A power relay, whether imported or domestic, performs the same function. They differ only in quality (domestic relays are less sealed and less wear-resistant) and switched contacts (for example, a BOSCH relay has a different contact arrangement. Contacts 30 and 86 are swapped). High-quality relays are produced under the Saturn and San Hold brands.

Contacts and operating principle of the relay

• Pins 85 and 86 are the coil.
• Contact 30 is a common contact, always present in the relay. Without supplying voltage to the winding contacts, it is permanently closed to contact 87a.
• Contact 87A is a normally closed contact.
• Contact 87 is a normally open contact.

Power contacts are always marked 30, 87 and 87a.

Relay operating principle:
At rest, i.e., when there is no power to the coil, contact 30 is closed with contact 87A. When power is simultaneously supplied to contacts 85 and 86 (one contact is “plus” and the other is “minus”, no matter where it is, if there is no diode marking on the relay), the coil is “excited”, that is, it is triggered. Then contact 30 is disconnected from contact 87A and connected to contact 87.

Some types of relays

1. relay with five contacts (5-pin relay). If a signal is applied to the winding, then contact 30 is disconnected from 87a and connected to 87.
2. relay with four contacts (4-pin relay). Contact 87a or 87 may be absent, then the relay will only work to turn on or off (close or open) the power circuit.

All relays have coil contacts (pins 85 and 86).

Relay circuit example

Let's look at the principle of relay operation using a simple example with a circuit.
Purpose: Engine blocking.

• We connect one coil power contact (let it be 85) to the wire on which the “minus” appears (for example, an alarm wire on which the minus appears when arming).
• We supply +12V to the other coil contact (let it be 86) when the ignition is turned on.
• Contacts 30 and 87A are connected to the break in the blocked circuit (it can be anything as long as the car does not start when the circuit is broken, for example, the starter, ignition, fuel pump, etc. circuit).

Now, if you try to start the car with the security switched on, contact 30 will open with contact 87A and will not allow the engine to start.

If the “minus” signal comes out when the alarm is disarmed, then instead of contact 87A we use contact 87, i.e. The open circuit will now be on pins 87 and 30. With this connection, the relay will always be in working condition (open) when the engine is running.

Features and service life of the relay

Relay Features
If a diode icon is shown on the relay body, it means that when turning it on, it is necessary to observe the polarity on the control contacts.

Relay life
If the relay has been operated for a long time when switching power circuits in extreme modes, then the spark that jumps when closing or opening the contacts creates carbon deposits between the contacts and because of this, the actuator may not work or will not work correctly. Poor contact generates heat. At the same time, the current consumption in the power circuits may increase (if the contact is poor, the current of the electric motor or light bulb becomes a pulse-start), which entails heating of the places of poor contact in the switched circuits and, as a result, melting of the plastic parts for fastening the contacts. When fastening parts melt, the contacts shift and a sparking process is added, which further heats the contact point.

Relay VAZ tenth family is located in various places, for example in

Annex 1.
A brief overview of domestic standard relays in housings as shown in the photograph below.

Below you will find information from one manufacturer; there are other manufacturers and foreign analogues. For this part of the article, the main thing is to make it clear to the average car enthusiast that relays can be interchangeable, have different circuits, different numbers of contacts, depending on their purpose.

Domestic relays of this series mark the normally closed contact as 88. In imported relays this contact is everywhere called 87a

Typical relay circuits. Tsokolevka.

Scheme 1

Scheme 1a

According to scheme 1, the following 5-contact (switching) relays are produced:

With 12V control - 90.3747, 75.3777, 75.3777-01, 75.3777-02, 75.3777-40, 75.3777-41, 75.3777-42

With 24Volt control - 901.3747, 901.3747-11, 905.3747, 751.3777, 751.3777-01, 751.3777-02, 751.3777-40, 751.3777-41, 751.3777-42

According to scheme 1a with an anti-interference resistor:

With 12V control - 902.3747, 906.3747, 752.101, 752.3777, 752.3777-01, 752.3777-02, 752.3777-40, 752.3777-41, 752.3777-42

With 24Volt control - 903.3747, 903.3747-01, 907.3747, 753.3777, 753.3777-01, 753.3777-02, 753.3777-40, 753.3777-41, 753.3777-42

Scheme 2

Scheme 2a

According to scheme 2, the following 4-pin (closing/closing) relays are produced:
With 12V control - 90.3747-10, 75.3777-10, 75.3777-11, 75.3777-12, 75.3777-50, 75.3777-51, 75.3777-52, 754.3777, 754.3777-01, 754.3 777-02, 754.3777-10, 754.3777-11, 754.3777-12, 754.3777-20, 754.3777-21, 754.3777-22, 754.3777-30, 754.3777-31, 754.3777-32

With 24Volt control - 904.3747-10, 90.3747-11, 901.3747-11, 905.3747-10, 751.3777-10, 751.3777-11, 751.3777-12, 751.3777-50, 751.3777- 51, 751.3777-52, 755.3777, 755.3777-01, 755.3777-02, 755.3777-10, 755.3777-11, 755.3777-12, 755.3777-20, 755.3777-21, 755.3777-22, 755.3777-30, 755.3777-31, 755. 3777-32

According to scheme 2a with an anti-interference resistor:
With 12V control - 902.3747-10, 906.3747-10
With 24Volt control - 902.3747-11, 903.3747-11, 907.3747-10

Scheme 3

Scheme 3a

According to scheme 3, the following 4-contact (breaking/switching) relays are produced:
With 12V control - 90-3747-20, 904-3747-20, 90-3747-21, 75.3777-20, 75.3777-202, 75.3777-21, 75.3777-22, 75.3777-60, 75.3777-602, 7 5.3777-61, 75.3777-62

With 24Volt control - 901-3747-21, 905-3747-20, 751.3777-20, 751.3777-202, 751.3777-21, 751.3777-22, 751.3777-60, 751.3777-602, 751.37 77-61, 751.3777-62

According to scheme 3a with an anti-interference resistor:
With 12Volt control - 902-3747-20, 906-3747-20, 902-3747-21, 752.3777-20, 752.3777-21, 752.3777-22, 751.3777-60, 751.3777-61, 751.3777 -62,

With 24Volt control - 903-3747-21, 907-3747-20, 753.3777-20, 753.3777-21, 753.3777-22, 753.3777-60, 753.3777-61, 753.3777-62,

ATTENTION!!!
Relays of the 19.3777 series have a housing similar to the one above. The circuit of these relays has protective and decoupling diodes. Such relays have a polarized winding. These relays are not mentioned here in the article because they have limited use.

Relays of modern cars.

Differences and variety of relay numbers mean different mountings, housing design, degree of protection, coil control voltage, switched currents and other parameters. Sometimes when choosing an analogue it is necessary to take into account some parameters.

According to scheme 5, the following 4-contact (closing/closing) relays are produced:
With 12V control - 98.3747-10, 982.3747-10
With 24V control - 981.3747-10, 983.3747-10

According to scheme 5a with an anti-interference resistor:
With 12V control - 98.3747-11, 98.3747-111, 982.3747-11
With 24V control - 981.3747-11, 983.3747-11

Some are made with minor changes, this does not mean that I am repeating myself, but just trying to anticipate children's questions about self-installation. All these circuits are controlled when the ignition is on! If for someone this is not new or simple, then you don’t have to read it.

The first scheme is the classic use of relays for locking with self-clutching or self-locking. This means blocking the simplest ignition circuit.

To control the blocking relay, you can use a secret button or a reed switch-magnet pair.

The second scheme almost completely repeats the first. It contains either a standard control element that issues a control signal of positive polarity when the ignition is on (for example, a power signal on the window lifter or heated rear window). Using this circuit, you can control it from the radio wire to the active antenna. The only inconvenience is that the radio must always be in working order, and the removable panel must not be forgotten at home.

The third scheme is another clone of the first two. The first relay in the diagram operates on the principle of self-locking and controls the second relay, which performs the main function of blocking the engine of any circuit independent of the ignition. Here you can also use standard or other controls (in particular the radio), but you need to add another diode, as in the second diagram.

This diagram is also related to the ones above. Here the ground signal is controlled and therefore two relays are required. If you have the desire and opportunity to use a standard button, you will need an decoupling diode in the button circuit.

Original starter interlock controlled by a horn. The condition is the same as for foreign cars; when the ignition is turned off, the horn does not work. When using this circuit, after turning on the ignition, the horn does not work. After clicking on the signal, you can start. After the start, the horn starts working. Control options from other parts of the vehicle are possible. The right upper and lower relays can be small-sized.

This simplest scheme allows you to make additional blocking (secret) of the engine using a displacement/acceleration sensor on a system with remote start. The Star Line B9 alarm system was chosen for installation. The blocking is activated automatically from the alarm channel immediately after turning off the ignition or when arming. Activation after turning off the ignition is convenient because this signal cannot be scanned or blocked via radio broadcast. Thus, the engine can be started, but after starting to move, it will stall. Disabling the lock was used from the standard button, but with the ignition off. There is some inconvenience in this. If the engine is started with an autostarter, then before starting to move, you must turn it off, or if the engine stalls for any reason, then also after turning off the ignition, you must press the unlock button. Here you have to sacrifice either convenience or the security properties of the complex. Disabling the lock can be done with a separate hidden button or a pair of reed switches and magnets.

The ignition circuit to the engine control unit was blocked. With a short-term signal from the sensor, the engine stalled and the dashboard lit up, and it was immediately possible to start it, and when it started moving, everything was repeated. Other circuits may be blocked.

This circuit also uses a motion sensor or shock sensor. Proposed by Ultra Star technical specialist Mikhail Chausov. This circuit uses the principle of self-blocking relays (as in the first circuits of this article), but the output of the sensor to control the engine blocking itself is blocked. In general, it repeats the previous scheme with the difference in the use of conventional and polarized relays.

Text with comments also from Vladimir.

QUASI-ALARM.

When the ignition is turned off, the LED begins to blink, simulating the operation of a car alarm. When the ignition is turned on, the LED goes out without distracting the driver.

BLOCKING WITH CONDENSER.

When the toggle switch S is turned on in parallel with the spark-extinguishing capacitor Spr, an additional capacitor C bl is connected, which bypasses the contacts of the breaker and reduces the power of the spark energy in the ignition system: “there is a spark, but it does not start.” It is almost impossible to detect an additional connection using the dialing method. Disadvantage of blocking: burnout of breaker contacts if the client forgot to turn off the blocking.

BLOCKING WITH A RESISTOR

When the toggle switch S is turned on, an additional resistor (8...12 Ohms) is connected parallel to the breaker contacts, which reduces the power of the spark energy in the ignition system: “there is a spark, but it does not start.” Disadvantage of blocking: heating of the resistor (10...15 W) if you leave the ignition on for a long time (in case of unsuccessful theft), a heat sink from the resistor is required.

LOCKING WITH TIMER

When the toggle switch S is turned on and the ignition is turned on, capacitor C1 (10 μF) is charged through resistor R1 (0.5...1.0 MOhm). 5...10 seconds after turning on the ignition, the key on transistor VT1 opens and the relay is activated, opening (closing) the vital circuits of the ignition system.

ENGINE LOCKING WHEN DRIVING

Using a motion sensor, pulses are isolated from the tachometer, which are accumulated either by a counter or an integrator and turn on the executive relay. The coil of a small-sized relay (for example RES15) without a housing is used as a sensitive element of the sensor. The coil is installed next to the speedometer cable near its mounting on the instrument block (with its end facing the rear wall of the block). Resistor R1 (0.1...1 kOhm) determines the sensitivity of the sensor.

LOCKING WITHOUT SWITCH

If the ignition is turned on unauthorized, the KBL relay will turn on using a timer after 5...10 seconds (time constant R3C2), which will block the ignition. To ensure normal engine operation, it is necessary to press the appropriate limit switch, for example the handbrake or brake, with the ignition on. In this case, the timer will be blocked and the ignition will not be turned off. When the ignition is turned off for a short time, the timer blocking is maintained due to the storage capacitor C1. If the ignition is turned off for a long time, the circuit automatically returns to the blocking mode. Disadvantage: when the ignition is on, it is possible to bypass the blocking by searching through all the limit switches.

Here is a diagram of the old version. The new version is protected from shutdown by a large magnet; there is also a more protected version where there is a point place for the magnet.

In security mode, the device blocks the engine with normally open contacts of an external relay. The security mode is indicated by a lit or blinking LED. To unlock the engine, it is enough to hold a magnet at the installation site of the device at a distance of no more than two centimeters, the LED will go out and the engine will be unlocked for a period of 25 to 40 seconds; if during this time the ignition is not turned on, the engine will be locked automatically. After turning off the ignition, the locking also turns on automatically after 25 - 40 seconds.

Technical data

It is recommended to install under plastic panels in a place convenient for unlocking on the driver's side. Attached under the panel with a double-fix. The convenience is that you can attach the lock without removing panels, in fairly narrow places. If the LED is not installed, the blocking does not indicate itself.

Designation R1,R2 R3 R4 R5 R6 R7 R8 R9 R10,R11 R12 C1,C2 C3,C4 D1,D2 D3 D4 VT1,VT2 VT3 A1 Reed switch G

Denomination	Quantity (pcs.)	Note
Resistance
20 kOhm	2	18 - 22 kOhm
150 Ohm	1
20 kOhm	1	18 - 22 kOhm
10 kOhm	1
20 kOhm	1	18 - 22 kOhm
330 kOhm	1	300 kOhm
20 kOhm	1	18 - 22 kOhm
1 kOhm	1
20 kOhm	2	18 - 22 kOhm
10 kOhm	1	8.2 - 10 kOhm
Capacitors
0.1uF	2	0.068 - 0.33 µF
100uF	2	K50-35(imp) 16V
Diodes
1N4005	2
BZX84C12SMD	1	Sabilitron 12V
1N4005	1
Transistors
BC847	2
KT829	1
Chip
CD4011	1
MK10 - 3	1

A few conclusions from the latest scheme: In fact, for a large number of different cars, the installation was not quick. The choice of installation location should be convenient for the driver and there should be no metal objects nearby. Otherwise, the range of the magnet is reduced. A number of improvements have been made. The device became impossible to remove with a large magnet.

The following scheme, in terms of the meaning of the work, repeats the previous one.

I simply removed everything related to the indication of the mode in which the lock is located. And the reed switch itself, or simply say the wires, carried it outside the board. The board has become smaller, and the reed switch in the housing can be installed in narrower places. But the indication remains - the very fact that the engine starts or not.

Now you can use a remote external button instead of a reed switch. Or use a standard button. But let's return to the reed switch. I was told a long time ago that by moving a large magnet around the inside of the car, you can accidentally disable the lock. Yes, this is true, although of course it’s funny to see a car thief with a large magnet playing shaman in the car’s interior. And yet, if you connect a couple more reed switches to the wire that is connected to resistor R3, and connect the second wire of the additional reed switches to ground. Next, place additional reed switches around the main one, then it will be possible to turn it off with a large magnet if you move it very slowly along the installation site, and even in a certain direction.

How to use standard buttons to control the lock. Actually, not everything and it is not always possible to use standard buttons. It is clear that they enable or disable any consumers and functions in the car. But they all work, as a rule, when the ignition is on (except for turning on the headlights, but this button/switch is not suitable for us). The rest of the time, basically on all wires of the button you can see a ground signal and nothing happens when switching. This means that we need to determine which contacts close or open on the button. Next, I usually assemble the following circuit from two small relays.

Two additional small-sized relays, when the ignition is turned off, disconnect the button from the standard wiring and this button can be used to control the locking.

Another point to increase secrecy is to increase the value of resistor R3 to 5.7 kOhm. In this case, to unlock, you will need to not just quickly press a button or bring a magnet to the reed switch, you will need to hold down the button or magnet for a little more than a second.

The next scheme was born from the first option.

The operating algorithm is similar. The difference is that the input contact G must be shorted to ground. Moreover, if this contact remains connected to ground but the ignition is turned off, the system will turn on the lock as expected in about 40 seconds. And to unlock, you must first disconnect the contact from ground and apply ground to it again. The control can be a button, a standard button, a reed switch with any contact state. If you use a standard button as described above, then to turn it off you will need one additional relay.

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