How to assemble a homemade snowmobile on different types of tracks with your own hands. A snowmobile with your own hands: tips for making How to make a snowmobile from improvised means

Thanks to the snowmobile in winter, the user can easily carry luggage on board and move around alone or with passengers, even in the presence of deep snow outside the window. For the bulk of the population, such equipment is considered too expensive, so it is advisable to make a self-propelled drive from a walk-behind tractor with your own hands. How to do this, and what type of technique is better to give preference to?

Types of homemade snowmobiles

Even without global modifications, you can get a decent all-terrain vehicle by putting snowmobile wheels on the walk-behind tractor and fixing a small trailer. As for snowmobile wheels, they can be made in the form of tracks or wheels directly.

Crawler

The caterpillar track is structurally considered more difficult to perform. In fact, we are talking about a caterpillar attachment, the operation of which is provided by the main motor. Units of this kind are distinguished by a high level of cross-country ability, reliability and stability. If there is heavy snowfall in your area in winter, this technique will be indispensable.

For making the tracks directly, a conveyor belt, a motorcycle chain and a water pipe are suitable.

The use of a fishing line for sheathing the edges of the tape will significantly extend its operational life. Aim for 10 mm spacing when sewing stitches. It remains to sew the edges so that the tape is closed in the form of a ring. Even if the snow is loose and deep, the self-made self-propelled gun will not slip, but remember that maneuverability will decrease with high cross-country ability, since the weight factor will play a role. The undercarriage of the tracked unit can reach a weight of 30 kg.

Wheel travel

If the snow cover in your area is not too high in winter, it is more advisable and economical to give preference to the wheeled option. All you need is a compact trailer and matching wheels. The maneuverability in this case is much higher, since the specific gravity of the rear-mounted wheels is relatively low. The installation of special chains will prevent the equipment from slipping in the loose snow cover. There are two ways to make wheels:

1. Truck cameras can be used to craft wheels. Lower them and put them on the wheels of the walk-behind tractor. In the final step, use chains to wrap the wheels, fix the ends and only pump them with a pump last.
2. Equip the wheels of the trailer and walk-behind tractor with metal hoops. One per wheel is sufficient. When choosing the size of the hoop, be guided by the dimensions of the wheel. The width should be 2-3 times larger than that of the wheel, and the diameter should be slightly smaller. Weld some metal plates on the back of the hoop to increase the level of adhesion to the surface and to ensure the stability of the unit. The optimum plate thickness is 25 mm. This will create a simulated lug. Before putting on the hoop, be sure to lower the cameras, they will be tightly pressed against it after inflation.

A homemade snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor is represented by key elements in the form of a driving and driven part. The latter consists of runners, steering column and shock absorbers. The driving part should consist of a drive, frame and power unit. To have a clear idea of ​​the design of future home-made equipment, select a suitable drawing, taking into account the conditions of further operation, then complete a sketch and make a cardboard layout.

As for the options for operation, they should be thought out in advance so that, when working on a drawing, they can be able to supplement and correct it. So you will have a clear idea of ​​what you can make in the future on your own, and which elements you can get rid of altogether. It remains to decide between wheeled and caterpillar tracks, both options were discussed in detail above.

Be sure to carefully select your powertrain before final assembly. The three options considered are optimal:

1. A hand-operated motor with a drawbar is the ideal choice. It can be MB-2, MB-1 or Neva. Among the distinguishing characteristics are resistance to extremely low temperatures and high loads, as well as extraordinary reliability.
2. Two-stroke motoblock motors are distinguished by their low weight and simple design. The key benefit is ease of repair.
3. Japanese manufacturers' four-stroke single-cylinder powertrains are also good choices. They must be supplemented with an air cooling system. Among the advantages are resistance to corrosion processes, resistance to overheating and high technical characteristics.

Phased production

It's time to figure out finally how to make a snowmobile out of a walk-behind tractor with your own hands. In the future, this kind of equipment can be used for sports activities, tourist walks or the standard implementation of chores. Do not forget to modify the basic schema after you finally decide on the direction of use. Many consumables can be made independently or borrowed from old technology.

Pay special attention to calculating the dimensions of the consumables used.

Further step-by-step assembly technology is represented by the following operations.

Use pipes and sheets to weld the frame. Motorcycle frames are ideal, but classic faucets are also a good choice. To create the required shape, use a pipe bender, but first the material will have to be heated with a gas burner. Spot welding will allow you to connect the elements, after which it is necessary to reliably protect the structure from corrosion processes. To do this, it is enough to paint the finished frame.

Once the paint is completely dry, use a one-piece seam to cover all joints. To keep the snowmobile powertrain securely in place, weld the metal bracket directly to the frame.

Subject to the increased massiveness and dimensions of the equipment, you can choose a cast-iron bracket.

Weld the skis underneath. To do this, heat the steel strips and fold the edges at a 45 degree angle. Since there is a possibility that the metal will return to its original state, it must be hardened. If you have a choice between plastic and wooden skis, definitely give preference to the latter, since they have much better grip.

It's time to install the engine on the bracket, after which it is the turn of the ignition and clutch systems. All elements can be borrowed directly from the walk-behind tractor. Remember to have an oil and fuel tank in the back. Finally, weld on the handles and seat. Manual control should be directed to the right handle. For ease of handling skis, attach the vertical axis of the grips to them.

With shock absorbers, the snowmobile will be more comfortable to ride. To achieve the correct design, you can use the levers designed for the motorcycle. They can be new or used, but this point needs to be decided in advance.

Sleds are a great way to carry luggage or passengers. If you decide to use an old sled, make sure it is strong and safe enough.

If you originally have a single-axle two-wheeled walk-behind tractor, a compact trailer will help you turn it into a two-axle four-wheeled snowmobile. It must be welded tightly to the vehicle frame.

With the arrival of winter, some people successfully replace two-wheeled vehicles with home-made snowmobiles. This technique is able to overcome large snowdrifts and it is convenient to move on snow-covered roads. It is expensive and not everyone can afford to buy it, so many people assemble snowmobiles on their own using scrap materials.

General arrangement of a snowmobile

A snowmobile is a sled that is powered by an engine. They are agile, agile and capable of speeds in excess of 85 mph. Middle class vehicles can climb up to 20 ° slopes. Steep slopes up to 65 ° can be traversed by snowmobiles of a higher class. General device of the snowmobile:

1. The equipment is controlled by means of steering levers. The handles are connected to the skis in front.
2. The steering wheel is equipped with drives: gas and brakes. These levers control the speed and braking of the snowmobile.
3. The rear wheels are absent, and instead of them there is a one-piece rubber band (caterpillar), which moves the snowmobile. It is connected to the engine through a chain and belt.
4. Some models can be made on chambers from tractor wheels.

Thanks to their design, snowmobiles can overcome difficult terrain that vehicles cannot pass. With their help, food is brought to snow-covered areas in which there are no roads. But most people are used to using them for entertainment.

Manufacturing of structural elements

Before proceeding with the manufacture of structural elements, prepare a drawing, the required materials and tools. You can take ready-made drawings based on the Bullfinch or Vepr snowmobiles. Of the tools you will need:

• welding machine;
• pipe bender or finished frame;
• hammer;
• screwdrivers.

Since the construction of the mini snowmobile is low, the seat is made of durable waterproof material. The fuel tank is made of metal. Its volume should be between 10 and 15 liters. A chain from a motorcycle can be used as a drive.

How to make a snowmobile track

A snowmobile track is created from tires or a conveyor belt. The work will be difficult and time-consuming if tires are used as a basis. Bumpers are cut out of them, so a sharp boot knife or an electric jigsaw is required for work. To facilitate the process, tires are chosen with a suitable tread pattern. Making a homemade caterpillar:

1. The sides of the tire are cut with a knife. If the knife blade is periodically moistened with soapy water, the cutting process will become easier. When using an electric jigsaw, set a blade with small teeth and moisten with water.
2. If, when cutting, the track turns out to be solid or extra layers are formed on the seamy side, they are also cut off.
3. The cutting of the new structure is done when a mismatch in the tread pattern occurs. The structure made must cling to the ground, so the pattern structure must be correct.

The snowmobile, about which the story will go, was assembled by a tenth grader Sergei Sorokin from the Altai village of Ust-Kamanka. And this is not surprising. The guy has been fond of technology since childhood - for eight years he has been studying at the Central Children's Theater (Center for Children's Creativity) in the "Small Equipment" circle. In the selection of drawings and the design of the layout and transmission schemes of the machine, assistance was provided by the head of the circle, Viktor Aleksandrovich Kurbatov. Father, Boris Andreevich, helped to carry out the responsible welding work. Everything else, up to the processing of parts on machine tools, was done by himself. In total, Sergei built the snowmobile for about a year, the assembly alone took almost four months, from autumn to spring. And until the snow melted, he only had time to experience it, having “plowed” all the snowdrifts around the house. But now I have identified some shortcomings, which are going to be eliminated by the next season.

Our edges are snowy, and winter lasts almost six months. Therefore, every local boy dreams of a snowmobile - the ability of this car to overcome deep snowdrifts is amazing. A friend advised me to build a caterpillar snowmobile - he himself began to make the same machine in the winter (though then he cooled down and abandoned it). Besides, I already had a summer transport - a scooter. In the spring, I also began work, albeit slowly (besides, it was hampered by problems with welding).

1 - guide ski (2 pcs.); 2 - muffler; 3 - an exhaust pipe; 4 - engine (from the K-125 motorcycle); 5 - steering shaft (pipe d22); 6 - steering wheel; 7 - gas tank; 8 - inclined seat post (tube 20 × 20, 2 pcs.); 9 - vertical seat racks (pipe 20 × 20, 4 pcs.); 10 - seat cushion (foam rubber s50, sheathed with leatherette); 11 - caterpillar; 12 - tension axle assembly with two rollers); 13 - a stretcher with a support ski and runners; 14 - frame; 15 - track drive shaft assembly; 16 - footboard (stamped steel grating, 2 pcs.); 17 - seat frame trim (s5 plywood)

It turned out to be easy to decide on the design - since the experience was still not enough, I decided to build in the likeness of those that were in the circle: a tricycle (with a caterpillar made of wooden bars on two lanes of a conveyor belt and two front steering skis). In order to simplify the design, it was deemed advisable to make these support assemblies without shock-absorbing suspensions. In the summer I prepared a tape and bars for a caterpillar, bought a "second-hand" (used) power unit from the "Minsk" motorcycle. The engine had to replace the piston and rings. And in the fall, when they bought a welding unit, the work on creating a snowmobile revived.

The frame of the snowmobile, although spatial, is simple - rectangular in plan. Its main load-bearing elements (spars and cross-members) are welded from steel pipes of rectangular cross-section 40 × 20 mm, auxiliary ones from square pipes - 20 × 20 mm. The front traverse is made of a 60 × 30 mm pipe and is welded to the front ends of the side members at an angle of 15 degrees (the angle between the longer pipe wall and the horizontal). In fact, all the crossbars, except for the first one, are made in the form of portals (U-shaped, only on short stands). At first, I made the posts of the portal crossbeams slightly inclined inward (it seemed to me more beautiful), but, as it turned out in tests, the ends of the tracks began to touch them. It was necessary to shorten the already short track links, so I decided that it was better to digest the portals by making them rectangular.

The frame parts include the steering knuckle housings of the controlled skis. The bodies are made of steel pipe with an outer diameter of 32 mm with a wall thickness of 5 mm and are welded to the ends of the traverse at an angle of 15 degrees to the vertical.

1 - front bumper (steel pipe 20 × 20); 2 - bushing of the steering knuckle of the ski guide (pipe 022, 2 pcs.); 3 - front eyelet for attaching the power unit (steel sheet s4); 4 - spar (pipe 40 × 20, 2 pcs.); 5 - rear eyelet for attaching the power unit (steel sheet s4); b - brace (steel pipe 20 × 20); 7 - support rack of the steering shaft sleeve (pipe 20 × 20); 8 - steering shaft sleeve (pipe 028); 9 - seat backing plate (steel sheet s2); 10 - backbone bulkhead (pipe 20 × 20); 11 - portal struts (pipe 20 × 20, 6 pcs.); 12 - rear bumper (pipe 20 × 20); 13 - kerchief (steel sheet s4, 4 pcs.); 14 - bracket for fastening the drive shaft and the tensioning axle of the caterpillar (steel sheet s4, 4 pcs.); 15 - footboard frame (tube 20 × 20.2 pcs.); 16 - portal bulkhead (pipe 20 × 20.3 pcs.); 17 - support cross member (pipe 20 × 20); 18 - traverse (pipe 50 × 30)

1 - frame (steel corner No. 2); 2 - sole (polyethylene s5); 3 - base (steel sheet s2); 4 - bracket (2 pcs.); 5 - rivets (bottom - heads in a set)

1 - runner (steel sheet s3); 2 - ridge (steel pipe 20 × 20); 3 - bushing (steel pipe d26x2)

The tracked mover is similar to what most do-it-yourselfers use. Its caterpillar is a pair of parallel endless strips (with riveted ends) of a conveyor belt 65 mm wide, connecting tracks made of wooden blocks with a cross section of 50 × 40 mm, attached to them with a pitch of 100 mm. The total length of the track is just over two meters, the number of tracks on it is 20. So that the caterpillar does not "slide" to the sides, corners are fixed on the ends of the track bars (after one or two) from the free side. Each corner is a welded part, and their vertical shelves-walls are made rounded (from a pipe) so that the corners themselves cannot jam on the support ski or drive gear wheels.

1 - drive sprocket of the track drive shaft (z = 32); 2 - bearing housing No. 205 (2 pcs.); 3 - key; 4 - hub of the drive sprocket (pipe d40x7.5); 5 - gear wheel z = 8, t = 50 (duralumin); 6 - flange for attaching the gear wheel to the shaft (steel sheet s4, 2 pcs.); 7 - shaft (steel, circle 25); 8 - bolt М8х25 (8 pcs.); 9 - bearing No. 205 (2 pcs.); 10 - caterpillar; 11 - bracket for attaching the shaft to the frame

Caterpillar (a-front view; b - track docking unit; c - top view of the left along the track):

1 - truck (birch beam 50 × 40, set); 2-lane (conveyor belt 65 × 10, 2 pcs.); 3-stop (steel sheet s4, set); 4 - plate (steel sheet s4, set); 5 - M6 bolt with regular and spring washers, set)

The lower branch of the caterpillar is supported by a support ski, and the upper branch is prevented from sagging by two runners made of wooden blocks with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm. The ends of the runners are beveled for easier entry to them and silent derailment of the caterpillar. The support ski is made of 5 mm thick polyethylene sheet on the basis of 2 mm steel sheet with a frame from corner No. 2. It has upward bends in the front and in the back. The snow itself serves as a lubricant when the tracks slide on the support ski and runners, which, as practice shows, ensures the service life of the parts for one or two seasons (depending on the intensity of operation), after which they have to be changed. The support ski in a stretcher is pivotally attached to a pair of struts welded at the other ends to an additional frame cross member made of a 50 × 50 mm rolling angle. But on the very first tests, the racks began to bend. I had to reinforce them with struts made of steel strip with a section of 30 × 4 mm. The skids are installed parallel to the side members and are rigidly attached to the additional frame cross member with M10 bolts.

The power unit, as mentioned above, was used from the Minsk motorcycle (two-stroke, working volume - 125 cm3 and power - 10 hp). He placed it in front, in the middle of the frame. This arrangement made it possible not to think about the weight distribution of the unit, but forced to make a "curved" steering shaft so that when turning it bypasses the engine cylinder without touching it. The engine was fixed to the frame using a pair of lug brackets made of 4-mm steel sheet and cut to the shape of the standard ones, which are welded to the motorcycle frame. The motor has not undergone any alterations, even the output shaft sprocket remained standard, five-nadtsatzubaya.

1 - steering wheel (from the motorcycle "Minsk"); 2 - steering shaft (steel pipe d22x2); 3 - steering arm (steel sheet s4); 4 - steering knuckle lever (steel sheet s4, 2 pcs.); 5 - transverse rod (steel sheet s4,2 pcs.); 6 - kingpin with fork (2 pcs.); 7 - steering knuckle body (steel pipe d32x5.2 pcs.); 8 - sleeve bearing (nylon, 4 pcs.); 9 - traverse

1 - steering knuckle body; 2 - king pin (steel, circle 16, 2 pcs.); 3 - fork (channel No. 5); 4 - axle of the fist (steel, circle 16.2 pcs.); 5 - axle sliding bearing (nylon, 2 pcs.); 6 - nut M16 with a spring washer for fastening the axle (2 sets); 7 - steering knuckle lever (steel sheet s4); 8 - M16 nut with spring washer for fastening the lever; 9 - pivot sliding bearing (nylon, 4 pcs.); 10 - frame traverse; 11 - ski stiffness rib (ski ridge); 12 - ski runner; 13 - ski sleeve

Fuel (a mixture of gasoline and engine oil for two-stroke engines) is fed into the engine carburetor by gravity, from a self-made 5 liter gas tank located above the engine between the steering wheel and the seat.

The transmission of the snowmobile is also the simplest - without a countershaft and gearbox. The chain drive from the output shaft transfers rotation directly to the drive sprocket of the track shaft, on which a pair of drive cogwheels of the track are fixed. Cogwheels were cast in a mug of aluminum melted in an electric furnace into a cast iron mold. They are connected to the shaft through round steel flanges welded to it, each with four M8 bolts.

The shaft rotates in two bearings No. 203, the housings of which are fixed on the lamellar brackets of the frame intended for them (welded to the side members). The tension axle is similar to the drive shaft, only instead of the drive gears, it has two rubberized rollers with a smaller diameter.

The chain is tensioned (or loosened for disassembly) by moving the drive shaft further away from the power unit, and the track by moving the rear tensioning axle further back.

The guide skis (there are two of them) are made of steel sheet 3 mm thick and reinforced with a longitudinal stiffener welded on top of a steel pipe with a section of 20 × 20 mm. The ski is pivotally connected to the steering knuckle strut and has the ability to rotate in a vertical plane - to run over obstacles and run in them. In the horizontal plane, the ski turns with the fist from the action of the steering rods when turning the steering wheel. The skis do not have undercuts (or, as they are often called, “knives”), but this does not greatly affect handling, since the skis themselves are rather narrow.

The steering is typical for snowmobiles with two steering skis and ATVs: a motorcycle-type steering wheel, a steering shaft with a bipod, and the lateral rods with steering knuckles are already of the car type. The peculiarity of the steering shaft was noted above - it is "crooked".

After people see the prices for snowmobiles in the store, they ask the question of how to make a snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor yourself, how expensive and difficult is it? How does the manufacture of homemade products begin - a snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor? First, you need to determine what engine power to use. We used a 6 horsepower walk-behind tractor as an engine. Usually, four-stroke engines with forced air or water cooling are installed on walk-behind tractors.

From the walk-behind tractor, you can also use a reverse gear, centrifugal clutch, steering and fuel tank. Next, you need to think about the propulsion of the snowmobile. Most of them are equipped with a caterpillar drive.

The best homemade products - a snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor

When making a homemade snowmobile, they use tracks from other snowmobile machines, or homemade ones, assembled from scrap materials. After choosing a track, you need to decide what type of suspension to use. There are two main types to choose from: roller suspension and skid suspension.

Each of them has both advantages and disadvantages. After that, it is important to decide what layout the snowmobile will have. Usually, two steering skis are installed on the front of the snowmobile and a track block at the rear.

The engine can be mounted to either the rear or the front of the snowmobile.

How to make a snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor yourself

This snowmobile can be made in a few weekends at the dacha in the garage. At first glance, its design looks very simple. If you compare its cross-country ability in wet or loose snow, it will not yield to many industrial snowmobiles.

The creation of the snowmobile was based on the principle: the less weight and the larger the size of the caterpillar, the higher its passability on deep and loose snow. Therefore, the design will be as light as possible.

How to make a homemade snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor on tracks

Four wheels are installed inside the track. When there is movement, they roll along the conveyor belt, with the lugs fixed. The track is driven by a chain from the motor, special drive sprockets, through the driven shaft. They were taken from Buran.

The engine is taken from a conventional walk-behind tractor, the power of which is 6 hp. You can't accelerate quickly on it. The soft suspension of the ski and track has been removed because the snowmobile is designed to ride on loose snow. This simplifies the design and reduces the weight of the snowmobile.

Snowmobile Track Making

Consider the process of making a caterpillar. Plastic water pipe 40 mm, cut to length 470 mm. Blanks for lugs will be made of them. Then each of them is sawn lengthwise into equal parts with a circular saw.

The lugs are attached with furniture bolts to the conveyor belt. When making a track, it is imperative to keep the lugs at the same distance. Otherwise, the drive sprocket teeth will "run over", as a result of which the caterpillar will slip and slide off the rollers.

To drill holes in the conveyor belt for the fastening bolts, a jig was made. To drill the holes, a wood drill with a special sharpening was used.

This jig allows you to simultaneously drill six holes in the conveyor belt to attach three track lugs. There were also purchased leading sprockets (2 pieces), an inflatable rubber wheel (4 pieces), closed bearings No. 205 (2 pieces).

A turner made a bearing support and a track drive shaft. The snowmobile frame is self-made. For this, square pipes 25x25 mm were used. The articulated steering axes of the steering wheel and skis are in the same plane and in the same line, so a continuous steering rod without ball ends was used.

Ski sleeves are quite easy to make. A 3/4 '' water sleeve is welded onto the front cross member of the frame. Male threads are screwed in there. To them I welded the bipod of the ski rack and tie rod. Angles are installed on the skis, which serve as attachments to the pivot stand of the snowmobile. A metal undercut is made at the bottom to better control the snowmobile while driving on packed snow or crust.

Chain tension is adjusted by motor offset

The handling of the snowmobile is quite simple. To increase engine speed, the throttle stick is used, which is located on the steering wheel. This engages an automatic centrifugal clutch, causing the snowmobile to move. Since the engine power is low, the speed of the snowmobile is 10-15 km / h. Therefore no brakes are provided. To stop, you must slow down the engine speed.

Tracks are available in any width. Choose what is more convenient to do: a narrow but long track, or a wide, but short one. It is important to remember that a larger track will put more stress on the engine and make it more difficult to operate the snowmobile. If the caterpillar is made small, then the car can fall through in deep snow.

The weight of the snowmobile with all parts is 76 kg. It includes: a steering wheel and an engine (25 kg), skis (5 kg), wheels with axles (9 kg), a drive shaft (7 kg), a caterpillar (9 kg), a seat with struts (6 kg).

It is possible to reduce the weight of some parts. For this size of tracked snowmobile, the weight is quite satisfactory.

Characteristics of the resulting homemade snowmobile

frame length 2000 mm;
track width 470 mm;
the axial distance of the road wheels is 1070 mm.

Homemade snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor video

Give our man an engine - and he will make a walk-behind tractor, tractor, boat or homemade snowmobile out of it. It all depends on the climatic zone in which "Kulibin" lives. And since the territory where the snow cover lies for almost half a year is quite extensive in our country, the question “how to make a snowmobile” is quite relevant.

Homemade snowmobiles last season - video review.

There are even models developed by folk craftsmen and then produced in small batches.

Important! All designs proposed in the material are not a means of transportation from the point of view of the Law. You can move on them at your own peril and risk through deserted snow-covered spaces, and not at all along roads, including winter roads.

A do-it-yourself snowmobile can be made according to one of the concepts

On pneumatics

In fact, it is a mini-tractor with original wheels. Due to the large area of ​​contact with the surface, it overcomes even loose snow. It is usually made from a motorcycle or walk-behind tractor.

Important! Do not confuse this vehicle with floating ATVs on similar wheels. Snowmobiles have a different ratio of total mass and buoyancy of pneumatic wheels.

Classic design

With lead track and steering ski (s). The project, proven over the years, is the complexity of the manufacture of the caterpillar itself. The vehicle turns out to be universal, easily moves on any roads, including rough terrain. In some cases, homemade products are superior to many industrial designs.

Using the drive wheel

In this case, the wheels are with grousers. This is how a paddle steamer works. The advantage of the design is the relative ease of manufacture. The disadvantage is insufficient adhesion to the propeller surface, slippage on difficult terrain is possible. Such models are quite good obtained from mopeds and motorcycles, giving a second life to "donors".

Snowmobile

The easiest home-made snowmobile from the point of view of implementation. It is enough to put the cart on the support skis and install the traction screw on any suitable motor. In addition to some difficulties associated with the manufacturing technique of the lead screw, there are no more problems in the construction. The disadvantage is that this design moves only over a relatively flat surface. Another problem is that with low engine power, it is difficult to move against the wind.

By donor type, or the use of different types of engine, homemade snowmobiles are divided into the following types:

• Using a motor from a chainsaw. Low power does not allow moving large weight on such a vehicle. Therefore, chainsaw snowmobiles are usually single-seated;
• Moped or motorcycle. The project is quite simple to manufacture. The engine is designed for a certain load, it remains only to remake the drive element and replace the front wheel with a ski;
• Snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor. The design is rather complicated, but in terms of reliability it is practically not inferior to the factory one. The engine is designed for continuous operation under load, the kit includes a gearbox, which expands the capabilities of the vehicle. In addition, the power plant can be removed for the summer season, and the walk-behind tractor can be used for its intended purpose;
• A do-it-yourself snowmobile based on a car or, using a motor from a car. A fairly rare type of homemade products, professional equipment and complex engineering calculations are required for their manufacture. But snowmobiles made on the basis of a car are distinguished by high comfort, safety and reliability.