Drawings for building a buggy. We start building the buggy. How to make drawings yourself How to assemble a buggy with your own hands drawings

My friend offered to make a buggy, real in the right way smile.gif After a little thought, I agreed to his provocation. A friend purchased 99.9% of parts on a buggy, and I helped with welding-ideas-tools with a room and, most importantly, a company (one cannot do it all alone)

So here is the uprooted motor with a box. Heart so to speak ...

Start. So, as usual, the soul demanded rational decisions, so a buggy from the Soviet magazine "Modelist Constructor" was taken as a basis, it was called AB-82, and had most of the spare parts from the kindest gear in the world with a motor, ZAZ 968, i.e. Zaporozhets.
For a while, we found tools, did a mega-cleaning in the garage and looked for a donor. The tools (the most necessary) were found You can work in the garage (cleaned up, made the lights, etc.) Purchased ZAZ 968, rear-engined red coupe.
So we drove the ghost around the city, it drives, it is alive. In the garage, they butchered it (there is no photo of butchering, apparently we were very keen on the process)
We arrived at the garage, cleaned up, made a light, it seemed like decent, more or less working conditions came out ... We bought ordinary iron profiles at a metal warehouse, (shaped pipe) And they began to sculpt with a welding machine, which means ... Art

Art expanded, at first the bottom was welded, here the drawings were followed by 90%. The frame was made a little larger than in the drawings.

Somewhere in the process, a rear suspension appeared. These are native Zaporozhye levers with hubs, and on their own "ears", carefully opened in advance from the donor's body. There was an opportunity to move to my garage, which we did. Worked so that there was light, order and beauty, nothing happens for free.

As it was

How did it become
Pay attention to the high-tech technology for painting walls (they thought to make it lighter, like beauty and light are reflected) The technology is this, one paints chaotically in one place, the second in another, the paint suddenly ends (sellers are such sellers ... they promised that for the whole garage 10 layers is enough for a bucket .. but really ...) and this event is over))

The front arms and suspension were made.
The pipes of the rods are the rods from the rear suspension of the VAZ classics. With silent blocks.
Ears on the frame for homemade silent metal 2mm.
The ball mounts at the bottom are a piece of the VAZ front arm.
Ball vases of course.
Above, there is a releasable vase tip instead of a ball.
The bushing for adjusting the camber is welded into the upper arm (the bushing was made by the turner)
The turner also made a spacer for the upper ball-tip (they have different cones)
Initially, IZHP 4 shock absorbers were installed, but this is too weak an option.
Later they changed.
The rubber is still there to roll.

Suspension I must say was not welded from the bulldozer. The kinematics of the levers are measured in such a way that the contact patch of the tire with the road is always maximum. Checking the suspension travel. This is already a very interesting moment when the structure can be rolled at least somehow! Joy like 7 year olds.

Fiery heart, engine i.e. Trying on. The mountings for the motor and gearbox remained original, with minor modifications.

A general photo with a suspension and a homemade metal bucket 0.8 according to drawings from our wonderful Internet (what would we do without it ?!)

Again erotic fantasies on themes with a roof ... Design and engineering (from the word engineer or fig?))

Time has passed. We chose how beautiful it will be.

Space gravity. An intermediate, meaningless, cool snapshot.

By the way, here's the motor mounts closer. Just in case)

We began to make pedals, mounting tanks, cylinders. Alas, there are no high-quality photos of the process, either written or in between, like here. But the main thing is there is gas)) The steering rack is also fixed offhand. This moment is adjusted for a long time so that the balls in the steering rack are in a certain place relative to the suspension attachment lines. In short, what would you steer the car, and not she steered you over the bumps. Steering rack OKA (1111) Steering gimbals VAZ 2107, very comfortable, and for safety + Steering tips VAZ classic.

The first descents from the hill, the steering wheel on a stick with electrical tape, no seats, no brakes, nothing ... Don't do this, it's dangerous for everything in general)))) Ocean of course joy. The front wheels are normal, vaz, rear zaz (vazovskoe is a temporary dummy for a photo, really only zaz wheels per zaz hub)

Bottom. For it is dangerous to skate without him. Sheet metal, 0.8 in my opinion. Initially, it was fastened to self-tapping screws with a drill, but as practice has shown, they are not suitable for these purposes, they fall out from vibration, and are often cut off by the ground when jumping and so on. And then another mystery who will collect them with wheels ... Later, the bottom was welded with dots. By the way, from the start, the project was cooked with electrodes. And with the move to a new home, the machine was created only with a semiautomatic CO2 and a 0.8mm wire More convenient, faster, lighter, there are a lot of advantages for this type of welding.

After the first trials, the hopes for compact lightweight shock absorbers disappeared. We put two of these on the side, it became better, we drove them for a while, but not that. By the way, out of the corner of your eye you can see that there is a gas cable, clutch tanks, brakes, brake pipes and a high-quality steering rack. Such moments require a lot of thought and creativity, so they forgot about the photo campaign. On the floor of the buggy - linoleum)) Type was domesticated temporarily.

January 14, 2018 Article

DIY buggy from NIVA

I really wanted to do do-it-yourself buggy from the cornfield on the all-wheel drive, moreover, according to the idea, it should be lighter than the standard and on a fully independent suspension. There are several buggies where both front suspensions from the Niva are used as suspension. I consider this to be a half measure, since the entire front suspension assembly weighs as much as 130 kg. After weighing my fist - 2.4 kg, the field - 6! The only thing that needs to be done is to keep the layout of the units from the donor - the most standard spare parts.

Everything else is my fantasy at someone else's expense. the main purpose of the car is fishing and a trip to the forest. Uaz tires, Cordiant Off Road on Niva's overcooked disks. Engine 1.7, gearbox 4-speed, cardan shafts, RPM - everything is standard.

After agreeing with the client about the general concept of the machine, I had to make several sketches on paper and transfer everything to the computer. I work in AutoCAD and an ultra modern pencil-paper system:

Few pieces of iron:

Since there was no welding table, I had to make a base from what was at hand - a rolling table and two channels, which were brought out into the plane and made it possible to make a flat frame. The difference in the attachment points of the suspension (when measuring the diagonals) is 2-3 mm, although in fact it was possible not to bother.

Welded base:

So, the base is ready. Now we need to weld the main arcs and pipes for the suspension:

I brewed this car in the workshop of familiar restorers, so I had to drag the frame several times and re-level everything. With constant measurement of all sizes, the roof moved to the right by 5 mm, but these are trifles:

I decided to lengthen the suspension arms as much as possible to increase wheel travel. To do this, it was necessary to reduce the distance between the pipes on which the levers are attached and increased the track to 1550 mm. The shafts of the CV joints had to be made to order. So that the suspension attachment points do not go away, I made the arm attachment brackets so that they at the same time were conductors for fixing the frame pipes:

The tunnel was made with the installed units, while I had to think about how to place the tubes correctly so that they did not interfere with the unscrewing of the nuts. All units can be removed quite simply.
The total weight of the frame is 156 kg, I cooked it from the pipe, which was a lot. What does not apply to the power frame could be welded from a pipe of a smaller section, so after welding I sat and figured out how much the frame could lose weight - it gained 51 kg:

The gas tank is from the classics. This will allow you to make the dashboard entirely from VAZ devices:

The body kit is sheet, extremely simple:

Fastening the RPM on the cross - as our buggy drivers do on all-wheel drive buggies. Since nivovodov have a wrong understanding of physics and they are closed on a standard body, they break the body quite often. If you make a metal case as described, then the gear case can easily withstand 400 forces!

When using spare parts cut on a CNC plasma cutter, there is no need for a milling machine. Such a fist can be made quite inexpensively and with any configuration. This is a rear fist, the base is a piece of a DN100 water pipe and plates from under the plasma cutter:

Using two shock absorbers at different distances from the swing point of the lever itself, we get different forces on the piston, different movements and slightly different characteristics of the shock absorbers. It turns out that the characteristic of one shock absorber is slightly offset in relation to the other:

Suspension:

Front knuckle welding jig:

The fist itself:

Rear suspension assembly:

Finished chassis

Convergence can be done on the knee. All you need is a piece of rope and an elastic band from the handcart - it pulls the rope:

Dashboard:

As R. Kolesnikov (a former pilot from the Gazprom team) always says - if the all-wheel drive buggy rolls by hand easily, then the wheel alignment angles are correct. We managed to get within the necessary limits, and even taking into account the fact that the camber is made on the knee, the chassis rolls quite easily. It remains to make a body kit, connect the electrics and start.

Craftsman: Andrey "Nitro" Anikin

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We make the drawings of the buggy ourselves

Before proceeding with the assembly, you need to make a sketch, or even better a full drawing, it depends on the level of preparation. The most important thing is to understand in what conditions you will operate buggy, on public roads or exclusively by off-road? The geometry of the chassis and the type of suspension primarily depend on the operating conditions. After that, you can start making a sketch or searching on the Internet.

1. Overall width 2. Overall length 3. Overall height 4. Front wheel track 5. Wheelbase 6. Rear wheel track 7. Departure angle 8. Approach angle 9. Width over mirrors 10, 11. Radius of obstacles to overcome

The ground clearance is usually set to 250 - 300 mm, which allows you to overcome significant irregularities at speed. Depending on the proportions of the frame and the layout, the wheelbase is approximately 2500 - 2900 mm. The track is usually taken 1, 4 m - 1, 5 m. The dimensions of the undercarriage are borrowed from the donor or the following dimensions are used:

These dimensions are taken from the salon AZLK-2141... This buggy is built for amateur rides, not sports riding, which is why the emphasis is on comfort and safety, not power. Height 1, 2 m. Allows the use of conventional car seats. If possible, it is better to purchase "sports" seats of the anatomical type. It is also recommended to replace regular seat belts with 4-point belts, because Conventional belts are not enough to ensure full safety in this case.

Buggy layout

So, let's consider the features of the following donors: - M-2141

VAZ-2108 and its modifications (VAZ-2110 in terms of units is no different for us)

VAZ-2101 and its modifications

Each donor has its own characteristics, its own layout. Usually, the layout of the cabin is chosen, and then the units are placed taking into account it. Some inventors, on the other hand, start with assemblies. The algorithm still turns out to be the same, no matter from which side we approach the motor shield.

Drawings bugs, work algorithm 1. You need to start with a large number of printed buggy pictures, from different angles. It is important that the eye does not get blurry during the design process, you need to give time to your eyes to rest and look at the drawings in a new way.

2. For the manufacture of drawings we need: a protractor, two triangles, a ruler. It is better to draw according to the printed drawings with slate pencils or a gel pen, because an ordinary ballpoint pen is quickly clogged with powder applied to a sheet of paper, if the printer is laser.

3. Find a complete technical characteristic of the buggy so that you can use these parameters to bind any size to your drawing.

4. Set the point, the origin of the coordinate system. If you start the layout from the passenger compartment, then it is advisable to take the front mount of the driver's seat sled as the starting point. Some use the front wheel axis or the position of the engine compartment as the origin.

5. Considering buggy options from which we copy the proportions, we define the main parameters of our model.

A VAZ 2101 is used as a donor

To those who leave the base from donor, it is recommended to move the engine inside the base for better weight distribution. The center of the machine is in this case above the front axle. To avoid costly rework, it is recommended to use a cardan shaft from Niva 2121 or, given that the native shaft is two-link, remove one link and balance. According to the unit, it is necessary to move the passenger and the driver. The degree depends on the propeller shafts. At the back, a gearbox from a foreign car is usually used, made of cast iron.

Taking a look at the engine compartment, we pay attention to the fact that the gearbox is located between the pilot and the passenger, this allows us to slightly move the seats. Outer diameter of wheels at VAZ 2101 is 580 mm. To improve the appearance, many put wheels from the Volga, with a diameter of 640 mm. The difference of 60 mm is not very big, but it has a positive effect on the appearance. After we have received the length of the propeller shaft, have clarified the layout, you can start drawing the frame. Let's start with the ground clearance and drawing the lower tubes. We display the position of the wheels. We take the front wheel axle as the reference point. Place the seats, units and a dummy over the pipes of the first row. Considering the prototype, we determine the position of the frame guide tubes. You need to draw in layers - if on a drawing board, then using a drawing film, if on a computer, then using engineering graphics programs. On a computer, it is very convenient to highlight layers in different colors, this allows you to visually see the overall picture. Below are some of the design steps for a buggy:

Buggy from VAZ-2108

The most common model buggy from VAZ 2108, this is sandrail. A very light, maneuverable and simple machine. Compared to the previous layout, the frame is more graceful. In order to fully imagine the shape of the future buggy, we measure the entire donor's interior with a tape measure, we write down all the data, where and how the seats, controls, radio tape recorder, armrests are located. As the starting point, we take the 1st bolt for attaching the driver's seat sled. We choose a little more ground clearance than that of the donor, since the buggy is supposed to be used not only on public roads, but also off-road. We start by drawing the pipes of the first row. Taking into account the position of the dimensions of the engine compartment (front plane of the radiator) from the wheel axis, we transfer the corresponding dimensions to the drawing. Next, place the mannequin and seat. In order to save wheels, you can take from donor, also the steering rack, seat. I and some of the electrics are taken from the donor. Further stages buggy design repeat the previous layout:

After that, we indicate on the diagram the location of the dashboard and controls. The track of the rear and front wheels should be the same, so we can safely use the track of the front wheels from our donor. The distance between the fenders can be taken as the width of the engine compartment. The height of the cabin can be taken, either as from the donor, or slightly increased, because VAZ 2108 is not very convenient for tall drivers. Also, the seat allows you to move the driver's seat back a little. We measure the space for the battery, gas tank and audio speakers. Next, you need to determine the angles of rotation of the wheels so that there is no contact with the wings and frame.

Now that the main elements are thought out, you can start drawing the frame pipes. The middle row of tubes is located at a level that is comfortable to hold your hand while providing maximum protection.

For the production of these drawings, engineering experience should be minimal, since such work does not require any calculations, the process is more creative than engineering. The result should be the following drawing. If you fail to bring the drawing to a similar look, do not despair and try to redraw again, this is a matter of practice.

This four-wheel drive buggy is designed for 3-4 people. Gathered mainly to participate in competitive events between all-terrain vehicles. According to the author's idea, the all-terrain vehicle should have maximum cross-country ability, as well as remain light enough.

Materials and parts used in the construction of this all-terrain vehicle:
1) Oki engine
2) Wheels of the camera 1065 by 450 and stripped 9.00x16 from the tractor cart PTS4
3) Bridges from a classic vase
4) hubs and drive shafts from vaz 2109
5) Wheels vases, cornfield.
6) shock absorbers and springs from oki
7) back seat from Oka
8) the parking brake cable from the VAZ 2109
9) from the fret "dozens" throttle cable.

Let's consider in more detail the stages of construction of an all-terrain vehicle.

To begin with, the author figured out the bridges, the mounting brackets were redone at the rear axle.
The front axle was assembled from the rear axle of a classic vase, and the drive shafts and hubs were taken from the vaz 2109
The wheel travel is about 22 cm.

From disks from a vase and a cornfield, suitable for new wheels were welded. The result is 16 inches with a width of 25 centimeters.

Threaded fasteners were also made, a kind of threaded nuts, bolts are screwed into them, which help to keep the tire from turning.

The drive shafts were made 87 centimeters long, the wall thickness of the seamless pipe is 3 mm, the outer diameter is 27 mm. The shafts will be installed between the box and the bridges.

Rear shock absorbers are installed, as well as front springs. ball ones turned out with a small gap of about 1 mm, after tightening the bolts, the levers tightened.

The stage of designing the all-terrain vehicle frame is coming to an end:

The steering was done:

When loading the all-terrain vehicle, the shock absorbers sag by 10 centimeters and the steering becomes at a more comfortable angle. The front axle is about 150 centimeters wide, so the oki rear seat was installed.

The rocker is installed:

The shift lever is located under the left knee.

Rear drive shaft mounted:

It was decided to shorten the gearbox lever:

the muffler has also been simplified:

The engine was installed longitudinally relative to the base, the differential is free, the left drive goes to the rear axle, and the right one, respectively, to the front.

The radiator was moved to the front of the all-terrain vehicle to improve airflow and, accordingly, engine cooling:
The next step will be to cover the all-terrain vehicle with plastic, as well as the installation of combat wheels.

a dashboard like this was made:

A modified parking brake cable from a VAZ 2109 was used as a clutch cable, and a standard cable from a dozen frets was used to drive the gas.

A muffler was attached:

Here you can see the angle of rotation of the all-terrain vehicle wheels:

Photos of diagonal hanging:

The appearance of the all-terrain vehicle:

Lightweight i-324A wheels were installed in size 850 by 270r16:

Of the design flaws, the following were noted:
There is too little space to install a normal passenger seat on the left side of the driver, this is mostly hindered by the radiator from the VAZ 2110. Also, not factory standard driveshafts were used, but home-made ones about 90 centimeters long. the reason for this was that the factory shafts are only 80 centimeters long, and therefore too short.

Suspension test video:

The length of the self-made shafts is about 90 centimeters with a total wheelbase of 240 centimeters. The rear universal joint from the field has a length of only 80 centimeters and it is not possible to lengthen it to the necessary standards.

In addition, the homemade shafts turned out to be excellent, there are no hints of problems with them, all the loads are maintained, twisting is not observed.

If you use the rear driveshafts of the field, then the base will be 220 centimeters, in addition, you will have to come up with a connection to the gearbox from the oka, and because of the narrowing of the base, it will be inconvenient to intervene passengers.

The GPU in the gearbox is not welded, as this can affect the integrity of the drive axles, especially heavy loads will go on the axle shafts. Since the car will be used in the harsh conditions of the rally, it is better not to neglect the reliability.

the maximum speed of the all-terrain vehicle is exactly 57 kilometers per hour on a flat road, it accelerates for about half a minute to this speed, the dynamics is very weak, mainly due to the oki engine.

However, there is enough traction in first gear to skid with all four wheels in the mud, but the size of these wheels is not large, only 850 mm in diameter, which will not be known after installing more powerful wheels.

There was an attempt to install the wheels of the KF-97, but because of the gap of the thresholds, they do not fit, so the all-terrain vehicle will be revised to fit the required parameters.

In the meantime, a short folding seat was made, as well as air intakes for the radiator:

After eliminating minor flaws, the all-terrain vehicle was changed into KF-97 wheels, they are much larger than their predecessors, which will have a positive effect on the vehicle's cross-country ability.

DIY buggy is a dream from my childhood. I remember how we, yard boys of 5 - 7 years old, were fond of technology. They collected some pieces of iron, argued about cars and motorcycles. We often approached the drivers who came to our yard and asked them how much the car was “taking”, that is, to what speed it could accelerate. The guys usually answered who was serious, who was joking. We could watch for hours as a neighbor repairs his iron horse, and then arranged a battle for oily, worn-out parts, whose place is in the trash heap.

Many people had bicycles then, older guys could even fix minor breakdowns, tighten the chain, pump up the wheels. But the four-wheeled pedal Moskvich was only one of my friend and peer. Green in color, with beeps and headlights, it has invariably been a source of controversy and even fights for a place behind the wheel of the boys. The only drawback of Moskvich was low speed, cyclists easily overtook. How great it would be to put a real engine in Moskvich!

There were even legends among us about such a miracle we had seen personally. I often dreamed about how I would drive along the paths and paths in such a small car.

As time passed, I grew up, learned how to handle a wrench, drill and soldering iron. Of course, from the size of the Moskvich, I have already grown, and for the motor it did not fit at all. But the desire to build something of my own, with wheels and a motor, did not leave me.

The e-bike is a dress rehearsal for the DIY buggy.

The first self-propelled self-propelled gun was an electric bicycle.

He is on the right in the photo. Of course, buying a battery and a wheel with a motor, and then screwing it all up on the bike, turned out to be easy. But I was pleased with the result. I will never forget my first trip around the city at night. The bike rides by itself! Silently! Don't pedal! At that time, electric bicycles were still a rarity in our city, and often overtaken cycling colleagues followed me with perplexed glances. The lack of a garage prevented me from creating a homemade car, because even a bicycle with an electric motor took up a significant place in the corridor. And only after moving out of town, to a private house, where there was a place to turn around, I began to think in detail - how exactly to assemble the buggy with my own hands.

So what to build?

Collect buggy do it yourself from the used products of the sovavtoprom?

Or build four-wheeled velomobile, by installing a motor of the Soviet D6 type there

Or can collect Cyclecar? A small little car on moped wheels with an engine from a walk-behind tractor?

Or else it will be trike with a streamlined aluminum body, a powerful electric motor and a bunch of lithium batteries?

I thought for a long time. All options had their pros and cons:

• Finding Oka and using a grinder and a sledgehammer to unscrew the stuck bolts, and then constantly fiddle with the engine did not really want.
• The velomobile would be flimsy for country roads, the cyclic car did not have a suspension and a gearbox.
• The electric ride turned out to be too expensive and tied to an outlet.

But I had to start somewhere. You need to know in advance what the future homemade product will be for. This is either a walking option for trips around the neighborhood, or an au pair - a mini tractor, or maybe a buggy assembled with your own hands will be used as a sports equipment - to drive along an intersection.
Despite the presence of a vegetable garden and the unequivocal hints of my wife and mother-in-law, I still needed a walking car that would not fail in front of forest paths, mud and puddles. Of course, the buggy should be equipped with suspension, reliable steering and headlights.

Buying an engine - step 1 to a DIY buggy

I started by buying an engine. I didn’t need high speed, therefore, I didn’t need a powerful motor. The choice was between moped engines and stationary motors from motoblocks.

In favor of the former - the presence of a gearbox, generator, electric starter and clutch, and the latter were distinguished by high traction at low speeds, the presence of a gas tank and a long service life.

Moped engine.

Stationary motor from a walk-behind tractor

I opted for the Lifan 168 engine with 5.5 horsepower. It was also equipped with a generator and an electric starter, and unlike moped engines, it did not require a separate purchase of a muffler, a tank and other small things.

As a gearbox - an absolutely necessary thing for any car, I purchased a Dnepr motorcycle gearbox. Of course, I had to tinker a little with her, change the oil and oil seals.

Buying wheels is the second step to DIY buggy assembly

With wheels, too, there was a flour of choice. Mopeds did not fit, because they did not hold lateral loads well, I did not take car wheels because of the cost and weight, wheels from wheelbarrows could not withstand loads. As a result, I bought wheels from a walk-behind tractor.

Well, and a bunch of different small things. Chains, sprockets, a voltage regulator for a generator, shock absorbers, bearings, bolts and nuts, a stainless steel pipe for the rear axle, a brake disc from a scooter and a machine from it.

We buy a welding machine and learn how to cook iron

At the same time, they bought an inexpensive welding inverter, Resanta 140., a pack of electrodes, a mask and gaiters. Having ruined several meters of scrap metal and spent half of the electrodes, I more or less learned how to cook.

At first, I decided to do the clutch the same way as on walk-behind tractors - a belt with a pressure roller. Well, the steering is from Oka's car. It took me about 25,000 rubles for everything. Well, it began. I was too lazy to make even a simple sketch, not to mention the drawings. For which he later paid with time, metal and money. Something had to be adjusted, cut, welded.

The frame was shortened, the shock absorbers were swapped, the steering and suspension were redesigned.

And the part that connects the input shaft of the gearbox and the flywheel, I generally found when disassembling the shed. Finally the frame was welded and the engine and gearbox secured. The very first running test of a self-assembled buggy passed even without a steering control. I installed the front wheels on the axle shafts in the holes of the front suspension arms, put in reverse gear, started the engine and pulled the tension roller with my hand. The car has gone !!!

The device of my buggy

In general, the construction is very simple. Frame made of shaped steel pipes of various cross-sections. The front wheels from the walk-behind tractor are connected to the hubs from the moped by three bolts. The bearings were replaced in the hubs, 6202 were installed under the 15 mm axle. I used the bolts of the front wheel of the Voskhod motorcycle as the axles of the front wheel. The steering knuckles are home-made, made of a 40 mm angle, as a kingpin an M 16 bolt, which rotates in a choke nut, which in turn is turned and pressed into the pipe.

Castor, Ackermann's corner installed by eye. The front axle beam is connected to the frame by jet rods. The shock absorbers are attached to the frame and beam with welded corners.

Steering is from Oka's car. Tie rods and shaft were shortened.

Self-made pedals - gas, brake and clutch (will be removed as unnecessary). Cable drive for gas and hydraulic brakes. The rear axle is a hollow steel tube with a diameter of 30 mm. The wheel hubs from the walk-behind tractor are fixed on it. A brake disc and a driven gear are attached to the hubs with M 10 bolts. Chain drive, motorcycle chain 428 step. A centrifugal clutch is installed on the engine, a 420 chain goes from it to a driven sprocket located on the input shaft of the gearbox. Gear ratios - Engine - gearbox 3.6, gearbox - axle - 3.2, plus four gears.

Wheels 4.00-10 with developed lugs. The exhaust pipe of the muffler has been lengthened, the engine has become quieter.

How to make a buggy with your own hands. Description of the structure

Now a home-made car drives, causing surprise and smiles of passers-by. Of course, he is not allowed to drive on public roads. The project is not finished, it is necessary to improve the gearshift drive, install a protective frame, more comfortable seats, lighting equipment with a battery. But on the paths and country paths, my homemade product travels quite well. Thanks to the gearbox, you can crawl at minimum speed in mud or accelerate to 30 kilometers per hour on a flat road. And the pleasure of walking, the delight of his son, who called the homemade product Dynamite, the consciousness that he was able to assemble the car himself, is worth both the money and the time spent !!!