The better to glue the car doors. Do-it-yourself tips for correct and high-quality soundproofing of car doors. Improving door closing

Even if the car door is tightly closed, a fairly large amount of noise still passes through it into the interior. Therefore, many drivers decide to tackle the car doors. This is not the most difficult work, which involves going through several consecutive stages. Usually, self-isolation is intimidated by the need to dismantle a large number of elements. Sometimes it is required to remove literally everything, as is the case with the soundproofing of the cabin. But with doors, everything is much easier. Therefore, it is not surprising that a large number of car owners decide to do this kind of work on their own. Here you will need to choose high-quality materials and follow certain rules when completing the task.

Technique for soundproofing car doors.

Soundproofing methods

In total, several can be distinguished, depending on the level of the achieved effect. Do not rush to make a decision, because even using the most difficult method will not allow you to achieve an excellent result in sound insulation, if you do not take complex measures to process other body elements. Doors alone will not drastically change the situation. As a result, there are four methods of noise isolation:

• minimum;
• average;
• maximum;
• extreme.

Each of them has its own nuances, so you need to study these isolation methods in more detail.

Minimum noise insulation

If you plan to put serious acoustics in your car, you should forget about this option. It won't fit. If the goal is simply to reduce external noise inside the car, then feel free to use the presented method. Here, the doors should be pasted over with a continuous layer or at least 70% of the surfaces with a material capable of effectively. A vibration damper material with a thickness of at least 2 millimeters is also a good choice. At the same time, the noise isolator itself is glued to the inside of the door cards, which will reflect not only noise, but also act as a barrier for dust and moisture. Noise insulators are materials such as Splen or Accent. The advantage of this method is its low cost. But even it allows you to improve the acoustic situation inside the car without serious financial costs.

Average noise isolation

When looking for the best option for price and quality, you can stop at this method. Here, more specialized materials are used, which are installed in a slightly different way. This helps to reduce noise from the road, plus create a high-quality sound of the acoustics in the car. Vibration-absorbing material acts as the first layer on the door, the thickness of which should not exceed 2 mm. It is better to take a sheet with a thickness of 3 mm in the area opposite the speaker. It is also recommended to install an acoustic lens here. A layer of soundproofing material is laid on top. Although some believe that you can do fine without it. Each side has its own arguments, so make the decision yourself.

Maximum noise isolation

The transition to this method is relevant for those who want to put a really powerful speaker system in the car with excellent bass in the doors. Here you need to prepare the doors for such speakers. The issue of getting rid of external noise no longer plays a key role here. But if you carry out such work, then you will be able to easily solve the problem. extraneous sounds in the cabin coming from outside. The work is carried out in approximately the following sequence:

• The first layer is a vibration absorber up to 3 mm thick. It is not recommended to take thicker material, otherwise the doors will become too heavy;
• A layer of soundproofing material is glued on top, on which a waterproof glue layer is used;
• Technological holes can be closed with aluminum foil, which has an adhesive base;
• A rigid vibration isolator with a thickness of about 2-3 mm is placed on top;
• Next comes the soundproofing material in the form of Splan or an analogue. The thickness is recommended to be taken within 4-5 mm.

Door cards can also be treated with a 2mm vibration damping material by gluing a sound-absorbing material with a full surface structure under the cards.

Extreme noise isolation

It is used by those who install extreme acoustics that can literally knock out car windows. These are real fans of car audio who compete with each other and determine who is the loudest. The thickest and most efficient materials are used in door processing. It is important to understand that this approach will lead to a noticeable increase in the weight of the door. But many people simply ignore this aspect, since their main goal is to install the most powerful audio system.

• The door is reinforced with aluminum strips or rigid vibration damping material. They are laid with a small gap;
• A thick layer of vibration-absorbing material is rolled between them. Its thickness will be about 4 millimeters;
• Next comes the stage of soundproofing with the use of a sound absorber based on waterproof glue or with a latex film. All technological openings are covered with sheets of aluminum or polyester resin;
• From above, everything is rolled up with 3-4 millimeters of vibration isolation, and then there is a noise isolation layer from Splan or an analogue;
• To process door cards, take vibra pieces to eliminate vibrations. A thick sound absorber is placed under the vibration-insulating material.

There is a lot of controversy about the rationality of such an extreme. This does not always justify the investment and effort. If you have powerful acoustics, but you are not going to go to a car audio competition as a participant, it is quite possible to get by with an average or maximum method of noise isolation.

Necessary materials

They usually start by choosing the right materials. You should not first disassemble the doors and only then start studying the characteristics and properties of different insulators. You're just wasting your time. Everyone is interested in what kind of sound insulation is better to choose for the doors of their car, so that noise absorption is at the highest level, to satisfy the car owner. Much depends on what result you want to achieve. This kind of work is worth undertaking if you want to:

• reduce the noise level by about 30-40%;
• provide a quieter door closing;
• improve the sound of music in the cabin;
• improve the overall level of comfort inside the vehicle.

Here it is impossible to say unequivocally which specific sound insulation for the door will be better. It will not be superfluous to understand the range, since everyone puts their own meaning in the concept of good insulation for a car. Because of this, everyone chooses their own, suitable material for him. In general, insulators that can be used for door processing are divided into several categories.

1. Bimastas. They include a layer of mastic and bitumen. A modern soundproofing material that has appeared on the market relatively recently. Copes with its functions perfectly. It is made in a layer of 2 to 5 millimeters. The outer cover can be made of aluminum, paper and fabric.
2. Vibroplasts. This category of soundproofing materials is characterized by excellent elasticity. There are three layers in total. A layer of glue is used below, followed by foil, and the whole polymer layer with the effect of water absorption is completed. The most commonly used vibroplast with the M2 marking. It is not necessary to heat before laying, it is realized in the form of sheets.
3. Visomat. This is a material with an adhesive base, a layer of bitumen-polystyrene mixture with an anti-adhesion pad. Due to its design, the isolator additionally cope with vibrations. To lay a sheet of material, you will need to use a building hair dryer to heat up to the desired temperature. Withstands temperature loads in the range from -40 to +70 degrees Celsius.

Having decided on the goal, each car owner will be able to independently decide on the material for soundproofing the doors. Decide what kind of car insulator you need to ensure easy installation with a reasonably effective result. The quieter you want to make in the cabin, the more serious soundproofing will have to be done. If you have a conventional audio system, if you do not like listening to loud music, use Bimast or Visomat, which should only be processed on flat door surfaces. For music lovers and fans of powerful acoustics, all internal surfaces and technological holes will have to be carefully processed. The use of the listed materials is considered the correct solution, since they:

• environmentally friendly;
• affordable;
• do not form harmful vapors when heated;
• have convenient sizes;
• withstand temperature loads in a wide range;
• protect against moisture and corrosion.

Door processing does not take much time and effort. The main thing here is to act consistently, step by step disassembling the structure and installing everything in the reverse order.

Sequence of the procedure

If you decide on the doors yourself, it is recommended to perform the work in accordance with a certain sequence, adhering to important rules and recommendations. In general, the work can be divided into 3 main stages:

• dismantling;
• installation of insulating materials;
• reassembly.

At the same time, the installation includes the installation of vibration-insulating and noise-insulating materials. This is done in this sequence.

Dismantling

To perform the correct soundproofing of car doors, you first have to prepare the element for the application of special materials. In general, it is not so difficult to disassemble the door. Although some cars have their own nuances, due to which the owners face problems even at the dismantling stage. The set of tools and materials will consist of:

• screwdriver;
• keys;
• construction knife;
• degreaser;
• insulating materials.

The first to be removed is the old cladding, which will open up access to the interior space. The problem here is the need to remember the location of all fasteners. You can get out of the situation with simple marking or using adhesive tape, with which the fasteners are glued near their hole. But what is not worth spending time and energy on is dismantling window regulators and door opening mechanisms. They will not interfere with high-quality sound insulation. When dismantling is finished, be sure to clean metal surfaces from dirt and treat with sponges or lint-free rags dipped in a degreaser. The usual inexpensive White Spirit will do. Try not to touch the paintwork or cause mechanical damage. Otherwise, you risk creating a center for the development of corrosion with your own hands.

Vibration isolation

Some people ignore the stage with vibration isolation of doors, thereby making a serious mistake. Vibration protection is needed in order to absorb the own sounds from door vibrations and reduce the noise level coming from outside. The inner side, located closer to the road, is pasted over with vibration isolation. The following materials are suitable as vibration insulators:

• Bitoplast;
• Vibroplast Gold;
• Accent Premium;
• Bombs Premium.

StP significantly outperforms Vibroplast in weight, which is why it is actively used by motorists. Do not seriously increase the mass of the door, since this will quickly begin to wear out the hinges. Plus StP has a wider temperature range, which is why it is recommended for use in regions with very cold winters.

Always wear protective gloves when working with vibration isolators. Otherwise, you risk injuring your fingers and hands with the sharp edges of the insulators.

• The entire surface is pasted over, as far as possible. But don't touch the door amplifiers.
• If there are speakers in the doors, it is recommended to treat them with Bitoplast. This will reflect sound waves off the doors, resulting in a cleaner sound. But it is not worth using Bitoplast everywhere, since the material is characterized by the ability to absorb moisture.
• Next, you can apply the Accent Premium layer. A very worthy vibration isolator, which has become a worthy replacement for Splen. The accent has been specially designed to provide effective vibration protection. The material is not afraid of contact with moisture.
• The product is two-layer. The first layer is black and the bottom is green. The second is an adhesive base, which is distinguished by impressive water resistance. This characteristic allows the material to remain on metal surfaces for a long time.
• To achieve effective vibration isolation, it is better to close all technological openings. If they are large, use sheets of aluminum or fiberglass;
• Next comes the Visotmata or Bimasta layer. The bimast is heavier, which negatively affects the weight of the door after the completion of the work;
• When sound quality does not play a key role and the driver uses a conventional audio system, you can replace the Bimast with the StP Aero. This material is lighter, so the load on the hinges will be lower.

Now you can move on to the next step.

Noise isolation

The following are recommendations on how to properly insulate the doors of your car on your own. This procedure is designed to reduce the noise level entering the cabin from the street. Additionally, noise isolation diffuses the sound of the speakers, thereby enhancing the sound quality.

• Noise-insulating materials are applied on top of the vibration-insulating layer;
• Leave 3-4 centimeters below the bottom point;
• To isolate the skin, you can take a few layers of vibroplast and leave stocks around the edges;
• All joints are carefully sealed;
• After applying the material, all excess must be cut off;
• Such processing eliminates knocks and unnecessary noise;
• If there are plastic elements, they are pasted over with Madeleine.

There is nothing complicated here. But you need to be careful and consistent in your actions. Missing some important points, you risk ruining the result of the work done. Often, motorists make fairly common mistakes. To eliminate them, follow a few tips.

1. Discard the use of Splan. This material used to be the pinnacle in the issue of sound insulation. But it was replaced by more modern and efficient products. Splen negatively changes the sound quality of music, contributes to the formation of moisture inside the doors, from which it quickly peels off, plus provokes the formation of corrosion.
2. You need to glue the material in horizontal stripes. And this is done necessarily with an overlap. Leaving gaps between the sheets is not worth it, otherwise the result will not meet your expectations.
3. By doing one thing, try not to spoil the others. Drivers often recklessly approach work, gluing with insulators literally everything in their path. Such inaccuracy often leads to the fact that the wiring is cut off, the cables break, the working mechanisms overlap, which is why the locks or window regulators stop working.
4. Insulation quality and material weight. Look for a middle ground. Do not chase the thickest and most effective soundproofing products. In fact, in most cases they are not needed to achieve a good result. And heavy insulation loads the door hinges, which is why they quickly wear out and break.

When you have finished all the work, sequentially collect the doors in reverse order... There are usually no major difficulties here. Especially for those who have previously taken care of the correct labeling.

Advantages and disadvantages

There is a lot of controversy as to whether soundproofing of car doors is so badly needed, and whether soundproofing materials are of real benefit. Each revision of a car after it leaves the factory can have strengths and weaknesses. This also applies to soundproofing doors. If we talk about the advantages, then the following points are distinguished here:

• the overall level of vehicle comfort increases;
• high-quality insulation increases the value of the machine in the eyes of buyers;
• doors can be used to install more powerful acoustics than a standard audio system;
• closing is carried out softer, more accurate, without unnecessary sounds.

As for the shortcomings, then, basically, it all boils down to the fact of increasing the mass of the door. Because of this, they gradually begin to sag, the hinges wear out, and repair is required. The advice is simple. Do not forget about grease for the doors, do not overuse the amount of insulating materials, and also try not to keep the doors wide open. Another conditional minus is manifested in the form of poor audibility of what is happening outside. Some people really consider this a disadvantage, since the driver hears the signals of other cars worse. But here he has rear-view mirrors at his disposal, which you need to periodically glance at.

It is really not that difficult to make high-quality sound insulation for doors. Dismantling takes a little time, and there are no complicated parts that must be removed before applying a layer of vibration isolation and sound insulation. Therefore, many people prefer to do this work on their own. Based on the recommendations given, following the sequence of actions and choosing high-quality materials, you will certainly be able to achieve an excellent result.

An important element of acoustic tuning is the soundproofing of the car doors. When installing any music system in a car, complete insulation, if not required, is very desirable. But the preparation of car doors for acoustics must be carried out in any case. Because without it, the music will play badly.

If you do not listen to music in the car very often, and the main purpose for which you make noise insulation is to make the car quieter, getting rid of a significant amount of external noise, then the doors should also be given close attention, since it is through them that about 30 % of all noise.

How to make soundproofing of car doors correctly?

It all depends on your goals. If you just want to achieve noise reduction while driving, you will need one method; processing doors to music will require a different technique and used materials.

Conventionally, four different options for soundproofing car doors can be distinguished, depending on what you are doing it for.

The first option is the minimum soundproofing of the car doors.

It is not suitable for installing acoustics. But to make street noises less, this is quite enough. In order to process the doors to a minimum, you need to stick on the outer door panel, in a continuous layer, or at least 70-80%, vibration-absorbing material (StP vibroplast, shumoff).

A vibration damper 2 mm thick can be used. And the noise-insulating material (accent, splen) can be glued to the inner panel of the door card, it will reflect the noise, and also serve as a kind of dust and moisture protection. Scraps of vibration-absorbing material can be glued to the flat spots of the door card.

This option is the cheapest in terms of cost. But this allows you to improve the noise picture inside the cabin, without spending a significant amount of money.

The second option is the sound insulation of the car doors is average.

We can say that such soundproofing of car doors is optimal in terms of price / quality ratio. In this method, more special materials are used, and they are mounted in a slightly different way. This allows you to seriously reduce noise from the side of the road, and also makes it possible to install acoustics in the door and get a good return from it.

The first layer, on the outer door panel, is to use a vibration absorber 2 mm thick (vibroplast from StP, Shumoff m2). And in the place opposite the speaker, you can glue a sheet of 3 mm (shumoff m3). It is also advisable to add an acoustic lens here. Soundproofing material can be glued on top of the "vibra", but you can do without it. There is no consensus on this matter.

In order for the speakers to play well, you need to make something similar to speakers out of the doors. To do this, a rigid vibration absorber (for example, a visomat MP) must be rolled onto the outer panel, closing the technological holes.

The door cards themselves need to be glued with a thin vibration absorber, a thickness of 2 mm will do (vibroplast silver, gold, shumoff m2). And then glue the entire inner surface with a noise absorber 5-10 mm thick (Bitoplast from StP, hermetic from Shumoff).

The third option is the maximum soundproofing of the car doors.

Such used when you plan to install a powerful speaker system with good midbass in the doors. In this case, the doors must be prepared for such speakers. External noise is no longer the main target. Although with this kind of treatment, you are guaranteed to get rid of most of them.

- As the first layer, on the outer panel, you can use vibration-absorbing material, 3 mm thick (shumoff m3), but not thicker, so as not to make the doors too heavy.

- A sheet of soundproofing material with a waterproof adhesive layer (shumoff p4, p8) can be glued on top.

- Technological holes in the inner panel can be closed with special aluminum foil on an adhesive basis, and a hard vibra, 2-3 mm thick, can be rolled on top.

- Above - soundproofing material, thickness 4-5 (splen, shumoff p4).

The door card also needs to be processed with 2 mm "vibra". And under it, glue a noise absorber, 10-15 mm thick, with a wavy surface (such as hermetic).

The fourth type of soundproofing of car doors is extreme.

Such soundproofing of car doors is intended for processing doors under powerful acoustics, the so-called "loud front". These are systems that are used to compete in frontal acoustics loudness, or sound pressure. The door is processed with the thickest and most efficient materials. The risk that this will make them too heavy is not taken into account.

- First, the door needs to be reinforced. This can be done either with strips of rigid "vibra", or with aluminum strips, which are glued at small intervals onto the outer panel.

- Then a thick vibration absorber 4 mm thick is rolled between them (bimast bombs, shumoff mix f, shumoff prof).

- The next layer is sound insulation of car doors or a sound absorber with waterproof glue or latex film (hermetic). Technological windows are also closed on the outer panel. Here you can use polyester resin or aluminum sheets. From above, they are rolled with a thick "vibra", 3-4 mm (bimast bombs, shumoff m3, m4). After that, a layer of noise insulator is glued (splen, shumoff p4).

- The door card is processed with vibra pieces to get rid of vibrations and bounce. And under it is glued the thickest sound absorber that can fit (for example, hermetic A15, A30).

The area covered by the sound absorber depends on how many speakers are in the door. Since the door card can contain several midbasses, "midbases", it is attached to the door iron with through bolts, and the acoustics are installed later.

Before you implement any option for soundproofing doors in a car, described here, think carefully about which one is right for you, for your car and purpose. Remember, no matter how well you handle the doors, you cannot do anything with the windows. And a large percentage of the noise will enter the cabin through them.

Greetings. Today we will analyze everything on the topic: "Car soundproofing". I will tell you how to do it correctly and what to make noise first. And I will also share secrets and tricks. Go!

If you want to build even an entry-level audio system, then Shumka is the first necessity and foundation for improving the sound in a car. An additional pleasant bonus will be increased comfort on any trip. Well, if the main thing for you is precisely the reduction of ambient noise, then improving the sound of even a standard audio system will pleasantly surprise you. But everyone will decide for himself to what extent to make soundproofing of his car, and I will try to help determine this.

More than a dozen cars have passed through my hands on soundproofing works, and I think I will be able to give you some useful information.

Types of noise insulation materials

Under the general name sound insulation, several types of materials are combined - these are vibration absorbers, noise absorbers and seals.

Vibration isolation materials

The name speaks for itself, these are materials for reducing vibration of metal surfaces of the car.

They are mastic on foil-clad material of different hardness and thickness. "Vibra" - is the basis of any soundproof "sandwich" of the car. Most often, materials are self-adhesive, but there are also those that require heating for installation.

• roof;
• hood cover;
• doors;
• trunk lid;
• wheel arches;
• salon floor;
• partition engine compartment;

Noise insulation materials

As a rule, they are laid on top of vibration isolation, performing a double function - noise absorption and thermal insulation. There are two types.

First option made of foam materials with a closed-cell structure, has a pronounced thermal insulation effect.

• salon floor;
• trunk floor;
• roof;
• bonnet cover.

Second option- softer foams with a wavy or pyramidal surface structure. The uneven face of the material increases the area, providing more efficient sound absorption compared to flat counterparts of the same thickness. Due to its softness and pliability, it facilitates the assembly of interior parts and fills in voids.

• roof;
• doors;
• trunk lid;
• wheel arches from the inside;
• bulkhead of the engine compartment.

Sealing materials (anti-creaks)

With the help of these materials, all hated "crickets" are eliminated and, if necessary, an additional seal is created at the joints of the plastic parts of the interior. Anti-creaks can also be used for winding electrical wiring.

• joints of plastic panels,
• air ducts,
• places of adhesion of door trims.

Manufacturers

On Russian market there are two of the most famous and common:

"StP"

"Standartplast" has been on the market since 1996. Distributes its soundproofing, soundproofing and sealing materials through dealer networks.

"Shumoff"

It is both a developer and a manufacturer. It has a number of very successful materials that fully meet the requirements of car noise insulation.

Of course, there are many more manufacturers and types of noise insulation, but I will give examples of materials from these two brands. Because they are the most common and well-known among us. This will make it easier for you to get an idea of ​​the type of insulation for a particular surface.

Car soundproofing tools

To carry out work on soundproofing a car, you will need:

• stitching roller **;
• a heat dryer, if you need to heat up certain materials;
• scissors and a knife for cutting material;
• degreaser (solvent, white spirit, etc.);
• cleaning rags;
• a spatula for removing old glue and factory sound insulation;

* Interior disassembly tools. Thanks to the material, the interior parts of the car during assembly and disassembly work remain scratch-free, do not damage painted, leather, chrome and other surfaces.

** Roll-on roller. A simple tool for rolling material onto the surface, avoiding bubbles and loose areas. Do not buy rollers with a plastic roller, it is good for them not to roll in the Shumka, besides, it will definitely not last long.

Basic Provisions

• Materials are glued exclusively to dry and degreased surfaces;
• Be sure to carefully roll vibration isolation over the entire surface;
• Choose the thickness of the material so that the plastic elements of the interior fit normally into their mounting places;
• Be prepared for the fact that several caps may break during work, so you can stock up on them in advance or buy in addition in the process;
• Carefully follow the fastenings of the parts and the location of the wiring plugs, it will not be superfluous to take a picture so as not to get worn out during assembly;
• Work must be done in a warm room (+20 degrees).

Soundproofing doors

Doors must be noisy. This is the foundation for building an acoustic system, you will not even recognize the sound of the staff after gluing the doors, the external noise while driving will also noticeably decrease, and the sound of their closing will become many times more pleasant. First of all, I want to note that door processing will have the greatest effect on costs, both financial and physical. You will hardly feel the effect of processing other surfaces for such a bright effect!

Dismantling doors

On the net you will find a detailed manual for almost any model, so there shouldn't be any problems here.

Be sure to use special tools so as not to damage the plastic and paint. If there is no access to them, you can use a screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape. The main thing is not to scatter bolts with caps and remember well which one is coming from, and also pay attention to the location of the wiring plugs. When assembling, you can spend a lot of time remembering where this or that chip is inserted, or you can completely forget to connect something.

Preparing doors for soundproofing

After disassembly, remove all factory insulation, remove the remaining glue (any solvent will help with this). When the insides are dirty enough, it makes sense to rinse the metal of the door, and after drying, thoroughly degrease both inside and outside. Do not neglect this rule so that the materials are held securely.

If the inner space is covered by a one-piece shield, then it will have to be drilled out for removal (use a drill with the diameter of the rivet shafts). In principle, it is even more convenient for seaming, since it is not always easy to get into the technological holes with your hand, and even forcefully roll the vibrator with a roller.

Vibration isolation of doors

Advice: initially apply to the metal a frame grating made of a material of increased rigidity from those that require heating for installation (for example, "ProfF" from Shumoff).

Then stick and roll the inner surface of the outer wall with vibration isolation as much as possible over the entire area where you can reach. Usually materials with a thickness of 2-3 mm are used. ( Examples: Shumoff Series M or Light, Stp Bimast Bomb or Aero.) with thicker, the effect will be better, but at the same time the load on the hinges increases and the complexity of installation increases.

The next step is gluing the outside of the inner wall. There are several options here:

• standard - everything is rolled up under the material used and installation openings are sealed with it;

• reinforced - mounting openings are sealed with a material that becomes sticky and soft only when heated, and at standard temperature has increased rigidity;

• professional - the holes are riveted with aluminum or overlays made of fiberglass, and then vibration isolation is applied on top.

Leave room for wiring when gluing. You can cut the material and glue it already under it, or you can partially remove the wires, completely roll up the door (leaving the holes for the fasteners) and install the wiring back. Also, do not forget to leave holes for caps, screws and guides, otherwise you will not wear the trim later. Additionally, watch the edges of the insulated area so that the material does not go beyond the border covered by the sheathing. Be sure to pay attention to moving parts, often out of inexperience, the guides of the mechanical open / close buttons are glued.

Additionally, you can partially glue the cladding from the inside, but do not overdo it.

If you are making noise on the doors to improve the quality of the music, be sure to install wooden spacers between the speaker and the door iron (pictured above). Select the height of the spacer according to the distance to the casing. In order for it to sit in place during assembly.

Soundproofing doors

Sound absorbers are usually glued to the inside of the cladding.

But it so happens that the shape of the sheathing is very complex or has a fleecy structure. In this case, it is better to stick the material on the wall of the door itself over the vibration isolation. It is more efficient to use material with a pyramidal structure ( Example: Bitoplast, Hermeton).

Do not use splen and similar noise isolators in doors, most of them simply peel off at low temperatures. I had to face it more than once.

If you had problems with crickets and squeaks in the map, then you can glue the joints with an anti-squeak.

Door assembly

Do not forget to connect all connectors, install all mechanisms in their places. Be careful not to use too much force. With proper gluing, the cladding should sit normally. Before fully assembling and pulling the fasteners, check all controls (lift, lock, mirror controls, speakers, etc.)

If everything is done correctly, now you will hear more bass, the music will become more collected and more pleasant, as well as external noise when driving will decrease.

Trunk soundproofing

Thanks to the competent soundproofing of the trunk:

• the level of external noise will decrease, especially in hatchbacks and station wagons;
• qualitatively increase the sound level of your subwoofer and the speaker system as a whole (sound will no longer be lost in the vibrations of the metal of the luggage compartment);
• decrease heat losses

For vibration isolation, a material of 2-3 mm is usually used. ( Examples: Shumoff Series M or Light, Stp Bimast Bomb or Aero). To enhance the effect of resonating surfaces of a large area, thicker material is glued, or a reinforcing mesh is made, as is the case with doors.

The soundproofing for the boot floor is selected from materials with a smooth structure ( Example: Shumoff series P or isotone from Stp).

For the walls and lining of the luggage compartment lid, it would be more expedient to use a Shumka with an open structure ( Example: Bitoplast, Hermeton).

There are usually a lot of uneven surfaces in the trunk, so neatness and patience will come in handy to achieve a good result.

Soundproofing car roof

Installing additional noise insulation for the roof of a car will significantly reduce heat loss. In cold weather, the car interior will heat up faster and cool down longer, which will undoubtedly add comfort. The overall decrease in external noise will be quite difficult to catch, but during the rain you can experience pleasant sensations. The sound of drops disappears almost completely. And also the quality of the bass will increase if you have a subwoofer installed.

The procedure for soundproofing the roof itself is not complicated and it is quite convenient to carry out rolling work.

Do not glue the stiffeners - they must be ventilated. Otherwise, condensation will accumulate inside!

The dismantling of the casing can cause problems. You need to be careful and do the work with an assistant in order to accidentally bend or not break it. And be careful with the wiring.

Examples of materials: Light or Aero for vibra, and Hermeton or Bitoplast for Shumkov.

In the area of ​​the arches, the main external noise accumulates and, moreover, it is a rather vibro-loaded surface. Complex soundproofing of the arches will significantly reduce the noise level and improve acoustic comfort.

Soundproofing arches outside

If your car has fenders installed, you will need to dismantle them. Glue the outer metal of the arches with a vibration absorber (3 mm). For the wheel arch liners, you can use a lighter material. Example: Shumoff M series, Stp bimast bomb.

It is better not to use silencers outside, even if they are moisture resistant. Practice shows that this is not very effective and the best result will be the correct sound insulation from the passenger compartment.

If there are no wheel arch liners in your car, then also glue the outer metal with vibration isolation. It is necessary to roll out the material very carefully to form a uniform surface. Then liquid rubber and similar materials are used on top ( Noxudol 3100, Shumoff layer, etc.), they additionally protect against sandblasting, reduce noise from impacts of small particles and mask vibration isolation.

Soundproofing arches from the salon

From the inside, the gluing process is standard. The first layer is vibration isolation ( example: Shumoff M series, Stp Bimast Bomb), the second insulation ( example: Bitoplast, Hermeton). It is better to stick the noise on the interior parts that cover the arches. But if their material does not allow the insulation to stick reliably, then mount it directly on the vibrator.

It should be noted that a noticeable effect is achieved only with an integrated approach. If you apply only one of the options presented, you will most likely be disappointed with the result.

Soundproofing the car floor

The floor of the car is characterized by a large area. The main labor costs are disassembling the cabin, removing the seats, etc. In this case, it is convenient to glue the material, in contrast to working with doors and trunk.

Since the area is relatively flat and large, it is better to use a thicker vibrator for the first layer ( example: Shumoff MixF, StP Aero Plus) for the most resonant places, materials that require heating during installation can be used.

The second layer is rolled up waterproof noise insulation with a closed structure ( example: Shumoff Comfort 10, Hermeton L; StP Accent or Isotone).

Be careful not to glue the mounting holes so that later you do not look for them under the thickness of the material.

It should be noted that, oddly enough, often the soundproofing of the floor does not meet the expectations of the average owner. The effect is hardly noticeable, especially against the background of a lot of work done and material costs. But as an additional plus, you will get improved thermal insulation of the cabin, if this is relevant for your region.

The best effect on engine noise reduction is achieved when the engine compartment is insulated both from the passenger compartment and from the outside.

This process is perhaps the most difficult compared to working on other body parts. The main difficulty is disassembling the instrument panel. because modern cars have a lot of electrical equipment, which is located in the torpedo area. Therefore, the removal and reassembly process will require very great care and attention. Also, it must be borne in mind that it is unlikely that it will be possible to insulate the engine in one day.

From the side of the engine compartment, it is advisable to use thicker vibration isolation; it will not be superfluous to use a material that requires heating. You need to cover the maximum area, including in the most inaccessible places. A material with a reflective surface is suitable as sound insulation in order to prevent possible overheating.

From the side of the passenger compartment, the thickness of the materials is chosen so that dashboard fell into place.

If all work is carried out correctly, the noise level from the engine in the cabin will decrease significantly (up to 50%). In addition, vibrations will also decrease, this can be felt on the steering wheel. In addition, if you use a material such as, for example, modelin etc., then you can get rid of squeaks and annoying "crickets" in the dash, if there were any.

The main disadvantage is the risk of damaging expensive equipment. It often happens that after the soundproofing of the instrument panel, there are malfunctions in the electronics.

Therefore, before deciding to carry out these works, you need to weigh everything well.

I will not dwell on the hood insulation for long. It can be made as insulation for the engine compartment, but for this it is better to use an auto blanket or something similar.

This procedure practically does not reduce the noise of the engine in the cabin. Here on the drive, the guy carried out cognitive measurements: .

I would advise you to carry out soundproofing of the hood in case you have a diesel engine and it rumbles loudly. The hood can also be processed if it vibrates noticeably when driving and you don't like it. Standard materials: Shumoff series M or Light, Stp Bimast Bomb or Aero for vibration isolation and closed types for Shumka: Shumoff series P or isotone from Stp.

It is better to glue the soundproofing to the standard soundproofing of the hood, it will be more convenient this way. And in this way the ventilation openings will not be sealed.

Outcomes

To what extent to carry out sound insulation, everyone decides for himself.

I would recommend the following:

Soundproofing of doors - "musthav" it is worth doing even if you are not going to modify your speaker system. The effect is remarkable compared to the cost.

Soundproofing an apartment is the most important issue that every inhabitant probably thinks about. apartment building... And if the soundproofing of the walls and ceiling does not cause questions, since many articles have already been written about it, today we will talk about how to make soundproofing of doors with our own hands, and below we give a video of this process.

Is a very important issue of concern to many homeowners. It is especially relevant for residents of Soviet-style high-rise buildings, because during the construction of these buildings, almost no attention was paid to protecting apartments from extraneous noise. As a result, tiny staircases, thin walls and plywood doors left absolutely no chance for a quiet life. There are several ways to change the situation and provide yourself with a comfortable existence. The first is to replace the door with a metal-plastic one, consisting of several layers, one of which is a high-quality sound insulator of varying degrees of conductivity.

The following materials can be used inside modern entrance doors:

• Foamed polyurethane. It is a good sound insulator, it does not let extraneous noise into the room and is characterized by high resistance to fire. The material adheres closely to the door leaf from the inside and does not transmit sounds.
• Foam plastic is characterized by a low specific gravity, protects against noise well, but in the event of a fire it becomes the cause of strong smoke.

Advice! Experts advise, if possible, to abandon the purchase of entrance doors with an internal foam sound insulator, since this material is characterized by a low level of fire safety.

• Mineral wool. Quite with good fire resistance, however, during operation, it absorbs moisture and sags under its weight.
• Corrugated cardboard. This is the cheapest option, however, its soundproofing characteristics leave much to be desired.

Modern models of entrance doors made of metal-plastic are additionally equipped with special sills and sealing contours, thanks to which the door leaf adheres closely to the door frame without the formation of any gaps. Expensive models are sheathed from the inside with a layer of artificial leather, which is also a good sound insulator.

Types of noise insulation for entrance doors and methods of its implementation

If it is impossible to replace the doors with better ones, you can make the sound insulation of the old door leaf and door frame yourself. It is performed in several ways.

Arrangement of the vestibule

It's no secret that metal is a poor sound insulator, while the characteristics of wood in this regard are much higher. Therefore, our compatriots often install a double door. The first of them is outdoor, in most cases it is made of reliable and durable metal and protects against the penetration of uninvited guests. The second one, the inner one, is made of wood and is an excellent barrier for all kinds of noises and smells. An air gap forms between the doors, which acts as a heater.

Each of you has probably seen more than once that a layer of sealant is glued around the entire perimeter of the door frame in new doors. If there are several such contour layers, they are able to provide truly high-quality sound insulation.

There are several types of soundproof circuits on the modern market:

• silicone - mounted in a slot on a door frame or door leaf by means of a plastic rib.
• Foam rubber contour. It has an adhesive base, thanks to which it is easy to self-isolate the entrance door.
• The magnetic circuit ensures a tight fit of the doors and, as a result, good sound insulation.

Advice! The use of a soundproofing circuit is one of the most affordable and effective ways of soundproofing an entrance door, which you can do yourself.

Do-it-yourself soundproofing using upholstery

Not so long ago, a very effective way of soundproofing an entrance door with the help of its external finishing with a thick layer of batting was especially popular in the vastness of our Motherland. Some craftsmen generally managed to upholster the door leaf with an old blanket, and cover it with leatherette on top. Even now, when asked which sound insulation is better, they say with confidence: the one that is made with their own hands and with the help of a thick cotton blanket!

Today, isolon and synthetic winterizer are used as a sound insulator for door upholstery. They are laid in several layers, and covered with leatherette or artificial leather on top - to give the canvas a beautiful appearance.

As alternative options for soundproofing entrance doors, you can consider installing decorative panels on the canvas, installing rubber thresholds, sealing the gaps that form between the door frame and the walls with concrete.

Interior doors in their texture are much thinner than entrance doors, which is not surprising, because they are designed to divide the space inside an apartment or house. However, this does not mean at all that the issue of sound insulation of such structures is not relevant. If you take a large family, one part of which dreams of a daytime sleep, and the second - about watching a football match with all the circumstances that follow from this, it becomes clear that you cannot do without good sound insulation of interior doors. But before talking about its types and methods of implementation, let us consider the materials from which the door leaf is made today. So, as materials for doors installed inside the apartment, they use:

• natural wood;
• Fiberboard (the most budgetary option);
• metal;
• plastic;
• mirror and glass plates.

The most popular doors are made of fibreboard (Fibreboard). Their canvas can be solid and hollow, with or without filler, with inserts of glass and other materials. Doors with glass inserts and hollow door leaves, which are generally a kind of resonators, are characterized by the lowest degree of sound insulation.

Speaking about which material is better for soundproofing interior doors, one should note a solid array of natural wood. But through plastic and glass doors, sounds and noises freely penetrate from one room to another.

Today on sale you can find high-quality soundproof doors, which are made according to the sandwich principle. If they are installed in special boxes with automatic rubber thresholds, the sound absorption level can reach 26 dB. True, such a decision is not always justified, because the appearance of this kind of structures does not differ in particular aesthetic appeal.

Self-insulation of interior doors

Professionals assure: if the door between separate rooms within the same apartment is installed correctly, the noise level can be reduced by at least 12 dB. If, however, you also use the best materials for noise insulation, you can even more noticeably reduce the noise level.

Advice! Installation of interior doors in accordance with technical standards reduces the noise level by 12 dB.

Stages of soundproofing interior doors

• Sealing all the gaps between the wall and the door frame (for this you need to use a sealant).
• Sheathing of the door leaf from the side from which extraneous noises penetrate into the room. The role of the filler in this case can be played by synthetic winterizer, foam rubber, mineral wool, batting. Dermantin, artificial leather and other materials are used as upholstery. Often, door leaves are sheathed with special sound-absorbing plates, which are glued with mastic and covered with decorative material.
• Gluing a sealant around the perimeter of the door leaf, for this you can take a conventional hollow profile rubber cord.

Advice! The gap formed between the door leaf and the frame should not be more than 1 cm.

• Installation of a sill that will prevent the penetration of noise through the gap under the door. Today in stores you can find sills made of a wide variety of materials with a sound-absorbing effect.

Tips for self-soundproofing doors in an apartment or house

If you want to install beautiful interior doors with glass inserts in the apartment, which, by the way, do not differ in special sound insulation, it is better to give preference to models with special sound-insulating glass units.

For many car enthusiasts, it is very important to maintain relative silence in their car, creating a certain level of comfort for themselves. However, not everyone has vehicle there may be a satisfactory level of absorption of external sounds. In this article, we will talk about how to do noise insulation of car doors with your own hands in several stages and how to reduce the vibration of all elements in the door frame.

To ensure a high level of noise insulation in any car, it is the doors that should be touched. This part usually has small slots or holes that appeared due to the loss of elasticity of the seals or were made during production. The door is one of the most important elements that is responsible for the level of absorption of external sounds.
Soundproofing car doors begins with the disassembly of this part.

If the work is done correctly, then it is possible to reduce the noise level in the car by 25-30%. It should be noted that the implementation of sound insulation on the door elements will significantly reduce the frequency of vibration and rattling, as well as improve the sound of music in the cabin.

The process of work begins with the need to disassemble the outer lining of the door soma. There are a lot of different screws, screws and other fasteners on it that need to be unscrewed. It is advisable to arrange each type of parts in separate boxes, and at the same time make notes on a piece of paper which of the fasteners is suitable for certain holes.

This point is very important, since you will definitely need to reassemble the structure. Therefore, it is very important to do everything correctly in the reverse order, so that each fastening element is put in its place.

Remember that when disassembling the door, you do not need to dismantle the power windows, and other mechanisms that are responsible for opening and closing this part. In the further process of installing sound insulation, these elements will not interfere, and when assembling everything in one structure, this may take more time than necessary.

After removing the outer cladding and panels, you will need to start removing the factory sound insulation from the doors. You do not need to worry about rough work, but it is advisable to do it carefully and with the help of additional tools, so as not to damage the top layer of paint from the body. If it is accidentally damaged, then over time, the metal in this area will begin to corrode.

After removing the factory soundproofing material, carefully remove the remnants of the glue, and all small particles from the seal. After completing the work, it is necessary to degrease the surface. To do this, you can use chemicals, thoroughly wiping the surface, or alcohol.

First steps for soundproofing

Soundproofing of car doors can be continued after degreasing the surface. This will improve the adhesion to the soundproofing material.

Pasting with soundproofing material must be started from the outside.

When gluing this part, it is best to select vibration-proof materials. It is necessary to cover the maximum accessible surface with them. This is not very easy to do, but the result will please you. Be sure to use all available openings and openings. To increase the level of noise insulation and vibration, it is not recommended to make the vehicle doors heavier.

It is correct for this purpose to select material with a minimum weight. It is also recommended to choose a product that will withstand temperature changes and mechanical stress well.

After fixing the internal sound-insulating material, the sound-absorbing material will follow. The process will proceed in the same way as the previous one.

However, one should pay attention to one nuance - the insulation of doors does not have good protection against moisture. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the right coating that has the highest moisture resistance. The less moisture accumulates, the less corrosive processes will take place.

If you have a question about what kind of sound insulation to use for work, then we recommend choosing modern models. In modern samples, the optimal balance of all the necessary requirements from the material is preserved.

Since working in a narrow space is very problematic, there is a chance of injuring your hands on sharp edges. We recommend wearing gloves for this.

Video "Do-it-yourself car door soundproofing"

Video instruction on noise insulation of car doors from the manufacturer of noise insulation materials SHUMOFF.

Vibration isolation of all door openings

After completing the external insulation, you can proceed to the internal one (closer to the salon).
To do this, you can close up all technical holes and crotches with a special dense and durable material. It usually improves the sound quality of speakers and amplifiers. You can also make waterproofing.

To seal the holes, fiberglass or aluminum can be used. The plugs will need to be pasted over with a special material - a vibration damper. After completing this stage, be sure to check whether the door will close and open without obstacles. The last stage is the installation of vibration-insulating material on the inner surface of the vehicle door.

As the weight of the car door increases, remember that the door hinges will carry more load than originally calculated during production. Here you can prioritize - high-quality sounding of music in the cabin or long-term operation of door elements.

If you are satisfied with the quality of the music, then vibration reduction is very simple. To begin with, all openings and openings are completely closed with a waterproofing film, and then you need to do the pasting with vibration isolation.

Soundproofing door trim

Instructions for soundproofing the trim on the car doors are very simple. After you have managed to choose the right material for the job, it should be installed over the entire plane. Some car enthusiasts install the material only under the joints between the plastic and the skin.

Since the main squeaks and knocks are associated with the skin, the following actions would be the most optimal solution. First of all - to make pasting with vibration damping strips all planes that should be joined to the door. On the reverse side of the sheathing, you will need to glue soundproofing material with one solid sheet.

The sheet should be larger than the surface to be pasted. For him, you can make an allowance of a few centimeters, as this will facilitate the work. Pruning can then be done with scissors or a sharp knife.

After carrying out all the steps described above, the doors can be finally assembled and installed. This is how the correct soundproofing of doors in a car looks like.

Video "Instructions for soundproofing car doors"

A detailed description of the standard soundproofing of car doors. With an indication of the places to pay attention to.