Water enters the vehicle interior. There is a puddle under the car - how to determine what is leaking? Flowing out of the exhaust pipe

With the onset of spring, as well as rainy autumn, many motorists are faced with the problem of moisture formation in the cabin, which is often evidence of a leak. Most often, owners of old and budget cars suffer from this scourge, although expensive modern cars are not insured from this either.

Clear signs of a leak are persistently wet floor mats and the persistent odor of dampness in the cabin. If you suspect a leak, there is no time to waste, and as soon as possible to find and eliminate its source. Where does the water in the car come from, and how to deal with it?

Unclosed window

However, dampness in the cabin is not always a sign of a leak. Water can get inside and simply due to the negligence of passengers. For example, in cars with manual windows, someone may accidentally forget to close the window completely.

In front, it is almost impossible not to notice the slightly open windows, because while driving, even through a small gap, a whistle will be clearly heard, which the driver will certainly pay attention to. At the back, passengers may well carelessly leave the windows ajar (especially children who play with the window handle).

As a result, the driver can drive with the windows open for some time. In wet weather (eg rain) this will inevitably lead to moisture ingress into the passenger compartment. If the car owner also managed to visit the car wash, the consequences could be much more serious.

So, the ingress of water inside the doors threatens with corrosion, as well as damage to the speakers of the audio system and damage to the appearance of the upholstery. Faced with a similar misfortune, it is recommended to remove the trim from the doors, allowing the moisture to dry out. This will prevent corrosion from occurring.

Worn door seals

If moisture enters the passenger compartment, but all the windows are closed, then it is worth carefully checking the door seals. It is possible that as the vehicle is used, they have worn out and no longer perform their primary function.

If such a problem really shows up, then you should hurry up with a replacement. It is best not to skimp and purchase new seals, as cheap or used ones may also soon become unusable.

Sunroof

Owners of cars with a sunroof should pay attention to the condition of the gaskets and rubber seals. If the leak really takes place from the ceiling, then the problem cannot be started, because over time, rust forms at the place of the leak.

This is also worth paying attention to buyers interested in used cars with a sunroof. If, when examining the roof, traces of rust are found, then it is better to refuse to purchase such a car, otherwise problems in the form of expensive and troublesome repairs cannot be avoided.

The fact is that it is not always enough to replace the gaskets and seals to eliminate the leakage - sometimes the hatch opening mechanism itself needs to be replaced.

Leaking windshield

The reason for the ingress of water into the cabin may be an unsuccessfully installed windshield. If we are talking about a new car, then the cause of the leak is the improper assembly of the car at the factory.

On used cars, the windshield often leaks after being replaced in a workshop, that is, the reason is again a human factor. To avoid such a nuisance, motorists are advised to contact the offices that provide a 6-8 month warranty for the work done. This period is quite enough for a poor-quality replacement to make itself felt.

Note that professional workshops will never replace the windshield if there is corrosion near the contact zone. In this case, they must first restore the damaged area, otherwise the work will be done in vain, and water will continue to enter the cabin through the rust-eaten body.

By the way, rust is another reason for windshield leaks. If the “mushroom” is wound up at the point of contact of the glass with the body frame, then it will not be possible to detect it immediately, since these places are hidden from prying eyes by internal panels. As a result, the water seeping into the passenger compartment will drain down imperceptibly, falling under the feet of the driver and passenger.

Everything is very simple: if something liquid has added under the car, then, most likely, this very liquid has decreased inside the car ... or in the vicinity of several meters - it also happens, and in the process of reading the article, you will understand why. In fact, a leak under the car is always fraught and deserves close attention, unless it is condensation from the air conditioning system. But how do you determine if he is the one or something else? That is why we propose to figure out what is flowing under the car, and for this we will have to stare, smell or even taste (highly not recommended)!

So, which of the indicators-properties are available to us in the fluid that has appeared under the car and what will give us an idea of ​​what is flowing under the car? This, of course, the color of the puddle, its texture, smell, viscosity, the ability to absorb - we can determine all this, and for this it is desirable that you have napkins or some unnecessary piece of rag in your car. Well, let's start our checklist, what's flowing under the hood? All options and examples below are considered when the machine is standing on an asphalt or concrete surface.

Condensation flowing from the air conditioner

Perhaps the most harmless thing that we can see under the hood of the car is the condensation of the air conditioner. If you read, then you know that the air conditioner dries up the absorbed air, and the resulting vapors drip under the car. In this case, the puddle under the car is nothing more than water - air condensation on the asphalt. This puddle is located under the hood (although a trickle can leak anywhere), it is colorless, odorless - however, it is not for us to explain what water looks like, and it is very easy to define it. Condensation from the air conditioner is released only when it is turned on, so this puddle can only be detected if the car has been standing still for a long time. And if you just drove up and turned off the engine, then quite a bit will drip under the car - you, most likely, will not even notice this puddle, because it will not leave the limits under the bottom of the car.

Well, if your car is not equipped with climate control or air conditioning, then the reason may be different. But if you see for sure that this is still water, then perhaps you poured it into the washer reservoir. In the end, it gathered somewhere (in the drainage channels of the hood, for example) and did not flow out immediately.

Flowing out of the exhaust pipe

It also happens that liquid flows out of the exhaust pipe - and the same water as in the case of the condensate of the air conditioner. Do not worry if very little water flows out, or if it splashes immediately after starting the engine, and there is no more water, then this is a normal operation of the catalytic converter - you can and where does water appear in it.

Automatic transmission fluid flows

In the vast majority of cases, the automatic transmission fluid is red. In fact, it is a very deep red. It is a little greasy (viscous) and generally has a very good repelling effect on asphalt - it is absorbed very slowly into it. The automatic transmission fluid has a pungent smell, which, perhaps, is best described as "I have not smelled anything like this before" - in general, the smell of automatic transmission fluid is unique.

Power steering fluid flows

Power steering fluid is most often slightly yellowish (if it has not exhausted its resource - otherwise it is light red), which has an average level of viscosity - it looks slightly oily, it can be caramel color. It is quickly absorbed into concrete. It has very little smell, but if the nose detects it, then this smell will be chemical, mechanical.

If all this is so, then most likely power steering fluid is flowing under the car. Additional symptoms that there is little fluid in the system are, of course, a low level of this fluid in the reservoir under the hood, as well as the squeal of the power steering pump, as well as heavy and slipping steering turns.

"Non-freezing" (washer fluid) flows

Windshield washer fluid - yes, you've probably seen it hundreds of times and you know what color it is and what smell it has. The fact is that there is such a diverse selection of characteristics of such fluids on the market that it is possible to determine that it has flowed under the hood in each specific case, knowing which anti-freeze is poured into the washer reservoir. However, in general terms, it is most often bluish, blue, green, orange or red - but in all cases it is partially transparent, not at all oily and not viscous, has a slightly sweetish and pungent odor, and is absorbed into concrete very quickly.

For a more precise definition, sit in the car, start it and sprinkle a little liquid on the windshield - you will most likely be able to recognize its color, and after getting out of the car, smell it on the windshield, and then compare it with the smell of a puddle under the car.

Never fill the washer tank with ordinary water in spring, autumn and, moreover, winter time - even if it seems to you that there will be no more negative temperatures. It is for this reason that non-freezing often begins to leak, forming puddles under the hood of the car.

Brake fluid is flowing

There is nothing worse than a brake fluid leak and this is no joke! If you suspect that you have a brake fluid leak somewhere, it is necessary to diagnose the brake system as soon as possible.

Brake fluid is very similar in appearance to power steering fluid in all aspects. They are both hydraulic fluids, so their properties are similar, if not identical. Brake fluid is medium viscosity and has a dull, mechanical odor. It is a little yellow in color. How can you tell them apart? Brake fluid can sometimes have a reddish tint and smell like alcohol. In addition, it is necessary to localize a puddle under the car - the power steering fluid usually flows out in the immediate vicinity of the steering system: that the power steering pump, that the reservoir, that the lines with the fluid - they are all located next to the steering system on the left (for left-hand drive cars). The brake fluid can flow out from anywhere, including the localization may not be under the hood at all, but behind the car.

Coolant flowing

Coolant (antifreeze) leaks are probably the second most common, with oil leaks coming first. A coolant leak will slowly drain the engine, making it susceptible to overheating. But this is not the only drawback - because of a leak, the coolant can be fatal to animals - the fact is that domestic and wild animals like to drink it, dying due to the content of toxins in it. Even if a small amount of coolant enters the animal's body, it can kill it.

The coolant can be pinkish or greenish, but in most cases it will be green in color, from light green to light green. It has a sweet smell and is very slightly viscous.

Engine oil is flowing

• If water leaks are observed after body repairs, the cause can be identified using the methods described below. Finding water intrusion points requires a sequential check, guided by considerations of logic. Before starting the checks, a complete inspection should be performed.
• An external examination for existing leaks may indicate the following symptoms:
  • The following symptoms may indicate existing leaks:
  • Check the clearances and fit of components such as bonnet, tailgate, tailgate, doors, etc.
  • Check the correct installation and possible damage to the sealing elements: plugs, rubber door seals, etc.
  • Check that the water drain holes are not blocked.
• Various checks can be used to find out more about the presence of possible leaks:
  • Hose test
  • Water splash check
  • Road test
  • Checking with chalk (powder)

Practical execution of tests and inspections

Checking using a water hose:

NOTE: Never aim the water jet directly at the rubber seal.

• Perform the hose test with the help of a second person (in the vehicle).
• Use detachable spray tips (water nozzle for fine water spray).
• Start at the lower part and spray the entire area, gradually working upward.

Water splash check:

• Additional checks can be carried out at the sink.
• Some leaks start here or only show up here.
• The interior of the vehicle concerned should be checked using the lighting during the wash procedure.

Road test:

• If no leaks are found when performing the above checks, a road test should be carried out on wet roads.
• Road tests in various conditions:
  • At different speeds.
  • On various road surfaces (from asphalt to cobblestones).
  • With a loaded or unloaded vehicle.
  • Driving through puddles (splashing water).

Chalk (powder) check:

• This check checks the clamping and bearing surfaces of the seal.
• Checking in:
  • Powder or chalk the door seal.
  • Coat the bearing surface of the seal with a thin layer of grease.
  • Close the door slowly and reopen it.
  • Check the width and continuity of the footprint on the door seal.

Other testing equipment:
Other equipment can also be used to search for leaks: stethoscopes, ultraviolet lamps, special mirrors or ultrasonic devices.

Repair the leak using the recommended tools, accessories and materials

Tools and accessories:

• Dry absorbent cloth
• Removable spray tip
• Backlight, fluorescent tube
• Mirror
• Compressed air
• Sealing lip installer
• Vacuum cleaner for wet / dry cleaning
• Compressor for sealant
• Interior trim remover
• Blade or pocket knife
• Wedge (wood or plastic)
• Heat gun
• Special mirror for detecting hidden leaks
• Test device using air supply
• Sealant (tape and plastic compound)
• Universal label
• Curled edge sealant
• Window sealant
• Waterproofing (PVC)
• Double-sided waterproofing tape
• Denatured alcohol (available in stores)
• Polyurethane adhesive
• Silicone remover
• Composition for removing tar

Water leaks according to mileage or service life

The increase in mileage affects the problem of leaks in the car. Existing factors:

• Service and maintenance of seals:
  • Lack of maintenance, insufficient or incorrect maintenance
  • Use of unsuitable materials
• Damaged seals:
  • As a result of aging, wear or mishandling / improper installation.
• Heavy pollution of the car:
  • Heavy dirt on the vehicle can seriously impair the function of the water drain channels and rubber seals.
• Factors depending on the service life:
  • Operating conditions
  • Ultraviolet radiation
  • Extreme climatic conditions
• Corrosion can have a serious effect on body components, especially as a result of the following processes:
  • Light or heavy rusting of the seal mandrel
  • Rusting welded seams of the body
  • Through corrosion

Water leaks after body repair

If a leak is observed in the car after body repair, the following points must be taken into account:

• Check the correct installation of the accessories and their seals.
• Check the correct installation of the doors, including the tailgate and the tailgate. The corresponding seals must not be damaged and must be installed correctly.
• Check the correct sealing of the welds.
• Check the correct installation of the rubber O-rings.
• Airtight glazing windows must have a correct and complete adhesive bond.

Water drain system

If there is water intrusion in the vehicle, the areas into which water enters or through which water is discharged should be checked first.

Water drain system

Water leaks. Diagnosis and elimination: Front of the passenger compartment

Windshield

• Diagnosis: Water ingress into the A-pillar area, the instrument panel area or the sill panel.
• Cause: Breaks in the sealant bead
• Elimination:
  • Tears in the sealant bead can be found from the inside using compressed air. The leak can be identified from the outside by the escaping air.
  • The second test method is a water test. The outer cladding panels must be removed carefully using a plastic tool. The leak should be looked for from the inside, with outside help.

Side windows

The side windows can have the same problems as the windshield. Therefore, you should use the same troubleshooting steps.

Door seal

• Diagnosis: Water intrusion into the lower part of the interior door trim or the sill panel area.
• Cause:
  • The waterproofing screen installed behind the inner door lining serves to drain water that has got into the door cavity. The water is discharged through the drainage holes downward or outward. If the waterproofing screen is damaged or improperly installed, water may enter the passenger compartment.
  • In addition, the drain holes can be clogged with leaves, dirt, or excess material to protect the cavity. Water collects in the doors and enters the vehicle interior.
  • Check the waterproofing shield for damage or improper installation.
  • If the waterproofing shield needs to be re-bonded, only an approved joint sealant should be used.
  • Before installing the waterproofing screen, the drainage holes must be checked for cleanliness.

Door seals

• Diagnostics: Water intrusion into the sill panel area
• Cause: Insufficient clamping force between the seal and the door.
• Remedy: Check the clamping force: The easiest way to check the clamping force between the seal and the corresponding seating surface is with paper tape. Insert strips of paper at various points between the door and the seal and close the door completely. If the paper can be removed without much resistance, the clamping force is too low. Adjust the clamping force: The clamping force is usually adjusted using the counterpart of the door lock. In this case, the alignment of the edges of the door and side panel or front and rear doors should be monitored. Another adjustment method is to change the position of the seal mounting flange. The clamping force increases as the flange is moved towards the door.
• Check the seating surface: Apply chalk evenly to the sealing surface. Coat the door supporting surface evenly with Vaseline. Close the door completely - the lock should click into place. Open the door. The chalk imprint (bearing surface) is clearly visible on the lubricant film. The supporting surface must be at least 5 mm wide at all points.
  • Check the Clamping Force: The easiest way to check the clamping force between the seal and the corresponding seating surface is with paper tape. Place strips of paper at various points between the door and the seal and close the door completely. If the paper can be removed without much resistance, the clamping force is too low.
  • Adjust the clamping force: The clamping force is usually adjusted using the counterpart of the door lock. In this case, the alignment of the edges of the door and side panel or front and rear doors should be monitored. NOTE: When adjusting the clamping force, always check that the profiles of the different components are correctly aligned.
  • Another adjustment method is to change the position of the seal mounting flange. The clamping force increases as the flange is moved towards the door.
  • Check the seating surface: Apply chalk evenly to the sealing surface. Coat the door supporting surface evenly with Vaseline. Close the door completely - the lock should click into place. Open the door. the chalk imprint (bearing surface) is clearly visible on the lubricant film. The supporting surface must be at least 5 mm wide at all points.

NOTE: When adjusting the clamping force, always check that the profiles of the different components are correctly aligned.

NOTE: Do not move the flange too far towards the door, as this can reduce the bearing surface of the seal relative to the door.

• Other reasons:
  • The door seal must completely seal the door where it meets the body.
  • Water can penetrate directly or indirectly into the passenger compartment if the seal is damaged anywhere.
• Elimination:
  • A damaged or worn door seal should always be completely replaced.
  • When replacing a seal, note the following:
  • Always install the seal first in the area of ​​small radii (corners).
  • Then secure the seal evenly to the flange by tapping lightly with a rubber mallet.
  • Twisting of the installed seal is not allowed.

NOTE: Do not reduce the specified seal length.

• Another reason:
• Elimination:
  • Straighten the deformed weld flange using a hammer and anvil, preventing and, if necessary, repairing any damage to the paintwork.
• Another reason:
  • The door seal is in contact with the weld flange all the way around. If this weld flange is deformed or damaged anywhere (usually in areas with small radii), leakage may occur at that location.
  • An extended seal mandrel can also cause leakage.
  • In both cases, water enters the vehicle interior under the seal mandrel.

Sliding / lifting hatch

• Diagnostics: Water penetration through the roof hatch opening
• Cause:
  • The roof hatch is installed in the water trap. Water flows out through the water trap, water drain holes and drain hoses. The drain hoses run down on both sides through the A-pillars and C-pillars.
  • Drain holes or drain hoses can be clogged with leaves, dirt, underbody protection material, and so on.
• Elimination:
  • Check the water trap for leaks.
  • Check drain hoses for leaks and correct connection to water trap.
  • Check the drain system for blockages and blow out with compressed air if necessary.
  • Check the outer seal and correct adjustment of the sunroof.

NOTE: For sunroof leaks, first check the outer rubber seal and the lock actuator or latch mechanism.

Rear door and tailgate

• Diagnosis: Water seepage into the rear headliner and luggage compartment.
• Cause:
  • The rear door and tailgate leakage problems are similar to those of the rest of the doors.
  • In addition, the area to be compacted must be much larger. The openings for the cables and hoses must also be sealed.
  • Rubber grommets for cable and hose routing holes should be checked for damage and correct installation (completely disconnected).
  • Rear door and tailgate hinge attachment points may leak.
• Elimination:
  • Check the rubber o-rings and replace if necessary.
  • Check the hinge attachment points and, if necessary, re-seal them with sealant.

Forced exhaust

• Diagnostics: Water penetration into the side area of ​​the luggage compartment
• Cause:
  • The duct for forced air extraction from the passenger compartment is located in the tailgate pillar, behind the rear lights.
  • The rubber flap of the forced air suction must be free to stir.
• Elimination:
  • Remove the forced air suction.
  • Check the body-to-body seal area and the rubber flap.
  • Replace the seal if necessary.

Rear window and sunroof

• Cause:
  • Leaks in the rear window and sunroof.
  • Check for leaks in the same way as checking for windshield leaks.

Panel joints with sealed welded seams

• Diagnostics: Water intrusion into the luggage compartment
• Cause:
  • Some panel connections are made during vehicle manufacture in the wheel arch and luggage compartment. These connections are sealed with a sealant.
  • Uneven application of the sealant can lead to rupture in the sealed weld.
• Elimination:
  • Sand the sealed weld seam.
  • Look for a leak in the sealed weld.
  • Re-seal with sealant.

Wet weather has always been a problem for many car enthusiasts, be it rain, snow or high humidity.

At the same time, problems can be observed both with the electronic filling of the vehicle and with its interior decoration.

Formation of the problem

After rain, heavy or light, you can observe the picture as water flows into the car interior... This happens for a number of reasons, among which the following are the main ones:

1. The most common circumstance is clogging of drainage holes with dirt, fallen leaves and other foreign objects, reducing the permeability to a minimum.
2. Another popular option is considered to be the loss of their properties from the side of window seals. They dry out, crack and tear, so their condition must be monitored.
3. The most neglected path is the corrosion of the body exposed to the environment. In this regard, holes are formed defenseless for water.
4. In addition, it can enter through the air intake of the stove and the hood hinges.

The windshield leaking option is the most common. This is not surprising, since under our road conditions it is changed quite often.

And the companies involved in this procedure do not always do it efficiently. Therefore, due to the low qualifications of workers, many motorists are forced to face this.

Another localization of the problem is the air conditioning system. If the outflow of the resulting condensate is difficult, water flows into the passenger compartment, which should not be with proper drainage.

But the most unusual place of its penetration, noted on some cars, for example, the Chevrolet Lanos, is the hood hinges.

Most often this is due to a constructive miscalculation, where there is an extra mounting hole. It also serves as the source of the problem, since through it moisture freely penetrates into the inside of the machine.

What to do if water flows into the car interior

Having dealt with the reasons, and having understood which one will need to be dealt with, you can begin to master the measures to eliminate it.

Be sure to monitor the patency of the drainage channels through which water is discharged and do not allow them to become clogged. If necessary, clean them thoroughly.

If a leaking windshield is the culprit, then you need to re-glue it professionally. If the seals are worn out, then they must be replaced with new ones.

If you suspect the air conditioning system, you need to remove its drain hose and clean it. This simple procedure will return it to proper functioning and restore the outflow of condensate.

We consolidate what we have learned

Having studied in detail the circumstances under which the penetration of moisture into the car is observed, it can be noted that most of the causes can be prevented.

To do this, it is necessary to keep the drainage channels functional and promptly clean them of accumulated debris.

As for the factors beyond your control, namely the replacement of the windshield, you should remember that the machine should be trusted only by qualified workers.

Otherwise, metal corrosion may develop and the situation will only worsen.

Hello everyone..
Today I will write about the problem on Kia Cerato, about which I have not written anything for a long time ...
and not because nothing is new ... but unfortunately there is no time ...

The problem is that there is water in the car under the rubber (winter mats) ...
yes, it is water ... not antifreeze ... or something like that ...

Since the rugs with bumpers ... then these puddles were noticed somewhere on the 3rd day ... when there was a slight smell of mold ...

It looked like this ...

The car is exactly one year old ... and only now such problems have appeared ...
there was water both under the back and under the front rugs ... and it was clear what the water level was ... it was somewhere 5 cm ... and then, accordingly, it was absorbed into the skin ..

The puddles appeared just during these last rainy days ..
But the option that the windows are not closed, etc. not possible .... everything was closed ...

The machine was not operated in such conditions ...

And in these too ...

So if anyone has come across ... or there are guesses from what these problems are ...
Please express your opinions !!!

After all, even if you go to the officials ... then there should be your own version ... often everyone refers to the poltergeist ...

Thanks to all!!
Hope you can help me !!
Your YKY !!