Homemade ATV based on Oka and VAZ units. How to make an ATV from an Izh motorcycle with your own hands ATV with a car engine

We present the ATV of our regular author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. The next machine he built testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself...

A year has passed since I left the garage and tried out my first ATV with rear drive wheels (). And then the thought came: shouldn’t we now make an all-wheel drive ATV (from the English. All Terrain Vehicle - all-terrain vehicle; similar machines received this international designation).

Fortunately, at this time a buyer turned up for the buggy (), and the proceeds went towards the implementation of a new project.

A year of work for 3 - 4 hours after work and on weekends - and new car was ready for testing, only minor (and I would say pleasant) modifications remained: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

The power unit for my ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooling. And if its power was often not enough for a car, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

The machine frame is spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of side members: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical plane. I bent the pipes on a pipe bender, “cold”. Eyes (pairs of ears) for attaching suspension arms and shock absorbers were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets were welded as components and assemblies were installed (in “place”).

1 - front wheel (from a Chevrolet Niva car, 2 pcs.);

2 -- engine (from the Oka car);

3 - front wheel drive transmission;

4 - gearbox (from the Oka car);

5 - rear wheel drive transmission;

7 - rear wheel (from a Chevrolet Niva car, 2 pcs.);

8 - fuel tank(20 liter canister);

9 - rear trunk;

10 - muffler;

11 - backrest for the passenger (headrest from the Oka car);

12 - saddle;

13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);

14 - gear lock lever;

15 - body kit (fiberglass);

16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);

17 - instrument panel (from the Oka car);

18 - front trunk

The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is unique. Although the car is all-wheel drive, it does not have a transfer case. As you know, in the Oka the engine is located transversely, while on an ATV it is installed lengthwise. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. Just myself power unit, interlocked with the “basket” of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission is composed of various units domestic cars, mostly VAZ models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be modified. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, I removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gear shift rod was also made different - extended, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The rod can be locked in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gear shift lever is on the left.

Inter-wheel gearboxes - from rear axles VAZ “classics”, only their axle shafts along with the “stockings” were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints are also used as hinges in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.

1 - motor (from the Oka car);

2 - clutch (from the Oka car);

3 - gearbox;

4 - CV joint (from a VAZ-2108 car, 12 pcs);

5 - main gear reducer with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);

6 - shaft (from a VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);

7 - wheel (from a Chevrolet Niva car)

There are no low gears or differential locks.

The steering is motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with tie rods) at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at the lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.

The bipod is made of 8 mm thick steel sheet in a shape resembling the letter “T”. At the edge of the “rack” there is a hole with a diameter of 20 mm - the steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for the ball ends of the tie rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The bipod lugs are bent down slightly so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

The wheels are 15-inch, from a Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with the appropriate landing diameter dimensions 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel running diameter is about 660 mm.

1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3,2,2 pcs.);

2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3,2,2 pcs.);

3 - stand (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

4 - support for the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

5 - rear strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

6 - support for the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

7 - front strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

8 - upper support of the front shock absorber (angle 35×35);

9 - front shock absorber upper support strut (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);

10 - front engine mounting support (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

11 - rear engine mounting support (sheet s3.2 pcs.);

12 - mounting eyes for suspension arms and shock absorbers (sheet s5, 18 pairs);

13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

14 - upper cross brace (pipe d20x2.8);

15 - lower cross brace (pipe d20x2.8.2 pcs.);

16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);

17 - front console of footrests (pipe d20x2);

18 - rear console of footrests (pipe d20x2);

19 - connection of the front and rear consoles of the footrests (pipe d20x2);

20 - cross member of the footrest (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);

21 - eyelet for fastening the fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)

Wheel suspension - independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers are from the Oka car (rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front arms - from a VAZ-2109 car. Both had to be modified. I installed studs for Niva wheels in the hubs, and homemade swing arms in the front knuckles.

The muffler is homemade, two-section. To protect the body kit from temperature warping, I covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.

The ATV body kit is fiberglass. I glued it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

(a - upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm front suspension; c - lower arm of the rear suspension; g - upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except those specifically noted, are made of VGT-20 pipe):

1 - beam (2 pcs.);

2 - cross member;

3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);

4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);

5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the Zhiguli car)

First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a square steel pipe with a cross-section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with your hands over your knee. The contour was welded to the frame using jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit) the “tacks” could be easily cut off. Then I bent “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I attached separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was made with polystyrene foam purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same polystyrene foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it cuts well with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into the overall structure on polyurethane foam.

1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);

2 - steering wheel connection plate (steel, sheet s6);

3 - plate strut (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

4 - detachable bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (nylon, sheet s18);

5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);

7 - steering wheel travel limiter (steel, sheet s6);

8 - bearing housing;

9 - thrust tip (steel, circle 15);

10 - thrust bearing

The false tank is of complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic film, I began to fill the space intended for it with layers of polyurethane foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry out inside. Filled until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw out the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse sandpaper.

A part was used under the instrument panel dashboard"Okie." I secured it to the blank also using polyurethane foam. Since the foam is large-porous, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I coated the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, putting plaster and painting the block could be neglected.

So, the blockhead is ready and to glue a high-quality product, it was required: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 linear meters of thin fiberglass fabric, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly advisable to wear breathing protection. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable they are. But experience, as we know, cannot be bought, so I gained it in the process of work.

I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the block and the product. The whole idiot covered it with stripes carefully, without any omissions. It only took 1.5 rolls of wide tape.

I diluted the resin in 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before this, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases would lie on flat surfaces, and on uneven surfaces, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass stretches moderately along the diagonal of the weaves, “flowing around” the desired shape.

First, I thickly coated one area of ​​the blockhead with epoxy resin, placed fiberglass on it and impregnated the top with resin again. The adjacent piece of fabric was glued using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. We had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also heated the resin a little near a powerful lighting lamp for better fluidity.

After covering the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to cover it with glass mat. The fiberglass mat I got was quite thick, and it turned out to be good for gaining the thickness of the product. But it does not hug uneven surfaces, so I used it only on flat (or slightly sloping) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. Just keep in mind that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate the fiberglass mat, so you need to dilute it more. After gluing the fiberglass mat, uneven surfaces were glued in several layers with fabric. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little, so that the resin would not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day of break it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin cures completely during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even just one layer.

Luggage racks:

a - front; b – rear

Since I needed the surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and I didn’t have enough experience, dips and holes still remained - I filled them with resin alone, and with pieces of fiberglass applied on others. There wasn't enough resin. I already bought more at the hardware store, in boxes. I liked working with it more because it was already packaged, and all I had to do was mix the ingredients. And it dried faster than the one purchased from the company.

After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and rear, false tank with seat, front fenders and front end. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands while picking, he separated the product piece by piece without much effort from the blockhead.

Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, ordinary preparatory and painting work using “all” technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstakingly filling the recesses with putty and fiberglass; then grinding the outer surface and priming with a plasticizer. Finally - metallic painting and varnish coating with a plasticizer.

The blockhead also carefully cut it off and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded “in place” mounts on the frame.

Finally, I welded front and rear luggage racks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kangaroo bars” that replaced the bumpers.

Basic data of the ATV:

Weight, kg……………………………………………………430

Length, mm……………………………………2300

Width, mm

(on the outer sidewalls of the tires)………1250

Height, mm:

on the steering wheel………………………………………….1250

on the saddle……………………………………………………..900

Ground clearance, mm………………….300

Base, mm…………………………………………1430

Track, mm………………………………………………………1045

Maximum speed, km/h…………….65

S. PLETNEV, Ocher, Perm region

Today, four-wheeled units are increasingly gaining popularity. But not everyone can afford to buy such a device. Then the question arises of how to make an ATV with your own hands. The creation process itself is very exciting, and finding components is not at all difficult. Therefore, if you have a desire, feel free to get to work.

Before starting work, a clear visual representation of the future structure is necessary. Drawings of homemade ATVs vary in accordance with the owner’s tasks and the characteristics of further use (carriage of goods, traversing rough terrain, etc.). After learning the basic diagrams and structures, draw up your own four-wheeled bike project. A clear example will serve as the basis for the work and will help explain to specialists what is required of them.

Of course, homemade work is inferior to established brands. However, if you choose the right materials and assemble compatible parts, then you will get a completely powerful unit that can compete with competitors. Moreover, you will save a lot.

Work process

The first step is to make the drawings of the ATV yourself. Put as much effort into sketching as possible. They will be needed to determine the required spare parts and calculate costs.

After creating the drawing, start purchasing components. Usually their main composition includes:

• frame - the main structure on which the entire unit will be supported;
• pipes of various lengths and diameters to ensure the operation of the system;
• rolled metal for installing shields, protection, etc.;
• shock absorbers;
• engine and its components.

The easiest way to make an ATV is with special equipment. If this is not available, the best option would be to contact specialists with ready-made drawings. They will not only do quality work, but will also be able to adjust inconsistencies parts and mechanisms.

The frame should be made individually, according to the dimensions of the intended device. However, if you wish, you can take a simple frame from a motorcycle or car Russian production. The easiest way is to make an ATV from Oka with your own hands. Because Oka's wheelbase is not long, this allows you to simplify the work of adjusting sizes.

Suspension and shock absorbers from cars and bikes are also perfect for future crafts. Considering that ATVs are designed to travel over difficult terrain, shock absorbers from a Minsk or Dnepr moped will be an excellent option.

Brakes are a very important part of the design. You shouldn't skimp on them. Create an ATV with your own hands, 4x4 drive, preferably with a brake system from a VAZ. Their strength is designed for cars, so a lightweight four-wheel bike will respond well to such a system.

The handlebar can be taken from any motorcycle. It is advisable that weights be installed on it to reduce vibration from engine operation and movement on rocky terrain. This will reduce pressure and hand fatigue when traveling.

Depending on which operating method you choose, you need to select wheels with wear calculations. For traveling on ordinary roads, simple wheels from Oka are suitable. However, if you want to achieve good off-road performance, it is worth investing in specialized wheels and tires from manufacturers.

And the most important thing is the engine. The best option for the role of a motor would be engines from IZH Jupiter or Planet motorcycles. A new motor will do just fine. Their simple design will help you easily replace worn out and broken parts. At the same time, do not forget about cooling. It is necessary to choose the ideal option for different climatic conditions. Active cooling is perfect, which, unfortunately, has not been used on motorcycles.

A homemade ATV from Oka, the drawings of which, depending on operating conditions, must contain additional equipment, can be equipped with fog lights, a tool box (very useful in case of breakdown) or a winch.

Assembly of the structure

After creating the drawings and selecting the material, you can begin creating the unit. First of all, a frame is created on which all the parts will subsequently be installed. It is advisable to use the strongest and most corrosion-resistant materials when working. When driving off-road, the robust design will more than once save your engine from breakdown.
Next comes the installation of the chassis. Here it is necessary to show precision in the assembly, since the coordinated work of all wheels and shock absorbers will ensure good dynamics and stability of the device.

Then proceed to installing the engine and its components. If there is a discrepancy between the mechanisms, do not use brute force under any circumstances. This will lead to subsequent operational problems. Having connected the engine to the gearbox, connect the fuel system. The fuel tank can be made with a reserve, which will ensure the possibility of long trips.

Now you need to install the electrical equipment. At this stage, wires are laid, headlights, signal lights and other consumer elements are installed.

After completing the main work, you can move on to the cladding and body kit. It is up to you to decide whether to use metal or plastic sheets when installing the body kit, but it is recommended choose based on the weight load on the engine. With sufficient power, a couple of kilograms will not be noticeable. It is better to install the seats with a hydraulic cushion, but you will have to pay extra for this, because when driving for a long time on a bad road, vibration mitigation will provide additional comfort.

This is the easiest way to do homemade quad bike from Oka 4x4. The main thing in work is the correct balance of finances and opportunities. After all, if you want to create an equal four-wheeled bike without calculating the costs, you risk leaving your work unfinished.

How to make an ATV with your own hands is a difficult and responsible task, but feasible for a master who has mastered welding and turning. The effort and time spent are paid off not only by large savings, but also by the result obtained - an exclusive, original model of a quadric that no one else has.

Features of assembling a homemade vehicle highly depend on the chosen base - the engine and other elements that are used by the craftsman.

6 best options basics (“donor”) for the one who has set the goal of how to make an ATV.

1. Motorcycle "Ural".
2. Motorcycle "Izh".
3. Motor scooter "Ant".
4. Another motor scooter (scooter).
5. Car "Niva".
6. Oka car.

Most often, some structural elements are taken from a motorcycle, others from a car.

In addition to the parts (components) for the quadric, its creator will need:

• assembly “shop” - a fairly spacious garage equipped with good heating and lighting will be useful in this capacity;
• a set of equipment and tools;
• blueprints.

You may also be interested in our specialist's article, which talks about how to make.

Preparation for work, tools and equipment

First of all, you need to carefully consider when, where and for what purposes the future ATV will be used - hunting and fishing, motorcycling in nature, transporting goods, etc. It is on this basis that you need to make a choice of a “donor” vehicle, deciding how powerful the engine is needed, what kind of suspension is suitable, what kind of trunk, etc.

You can take ready-made drawings from the Internet, create them from scratch yourself, or combine both options and ready to remake them at your own discretion.

List of required tools:

• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• drill;
• a set of keys;
• various small tools - calipers, hammer, knife, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.

To make your own frame, you will also need equipment for bending pipes. If you don’t have one, you can rent it or outsource the necessary work to another craftsman. Only with remarkable skill can you bend the pipes manually by heating the bend with a gas cutter or torch.

Quad components:

• engine;
• frame;
• rear and front suspension;
• steering;
• brake system;
• cooling system;
• muffler;
• electrical equipment - battery, headlights;
• body, body kit

It is quite possible to make a muffler yourself. Everything else is to purchase used parts on the shadow market.

Parts selection

ATV frame

Depending on the “donor” and the design of the quad, you either have to make the frame yourself, or you can reconstruct a finished, used one.

The most important thing is that the engine is securely bolted to the bottom along the frame, which can be located either front or rear. The transmission and drive should also be firmly attached to the frame to avoid play.

The material used is ordinary water and gas pipes with a wall thickness of no more than 3 mm:

• for spars - 25 mm;
• for crossbars and struts - 20 mm.

The pipes are connected using spot welding, followed by solid welding. Ears for attaching shock absorbers and levers are welded to the frame immediately. Brackets - during the installation of units and components.

Reconstruction of an existing frame

To reconstruct a finished frame, you should remove everything, leaving the frame, dismantle the back part and build up the front. Then weld elements for fastening a complete set of components and assemblies of the ATV. When reconstructing a motorcycle frame, the seatposts should be moved back by 40 - 45 cm.

The front and rear luggage racks are cut out of a metal sheet and welded to the frame. Finally, the finished frame is painted; there is no need to varnish it.

Engine

The engine is suitable for a car, motorcycle or scooter. Some “Lefties” even construct an ATV from a walk-behind tractor with their own hands, since newer models are equipped with four-stroke engines, the power of which in heavy devices reaches 15 “horses” - versus 11 hp. "Ant."

The engine of a scooter has the advantage of low fuel consumption; in addition, the scooter-based quad is the lightest, which makes it easy to pull it out when stuck in mud and sand. But a quad to transport cargo and/or drive off-road requires a more powerful engine.

The engine power of the Izh-1, Izh-2 and Izh Jupiter is 24 hp, the old Ural is 32 or 36 hp, the two-cylinder engine of the old Oka is 35 hp. , a three-cylinder car of a later release - 53.

To travel in hot weather, the ATV needs a cooled engine. Cooling was not installed on older motorcycles, so you will have to pick it up (for example, from a VAZ 2108 will do) and install it.

The suspension can be used both rear and front. The easiest way is to take the front one from a motorcycle.

2 rear suspension options:

1. The rear axle of the car, shortened to fit the dimensions of a quad. The advantage is the presence of a differential. Disadvantage - the design will be heavier.
2. Cardan-gear design - with a gearbox mounted on the rear axle.

Please note: the quad-all-terrain vehicle requires independent suspension with high ground clearance.

The suspension arms are bolted to the frame through rubber-metal hinges - silent blocks.

The front suspension strut must be tilted, otherwise the ATV may roll over.

The shock absorbers are suitable from Izha, but if the budget allows you to purchase gas-oil shock absorbers with pumping, the driver will be able to adjust the suspension according to road conditions.

Steering and chassis

The steering system of an ATV can be either based on a car - with a steering wheel, or with a motorcycle steering wheel. Some craftsmen combine both types: motorcycle handlebars, levers and shafts at the top, car tie rods at the bottom. It is advisable to take the fuel tank along with the motorcycle handlebars.

A homemade steering shaft is made from a 20 mm pipe with walls up to 3 mm. A travel limiter must be installed at the bottom.

When making a quad on a car base, it is better to replace a gear pair with a chain drive. This will greatly simplify and reduce the cost of maintenance.

The input shafts from the gearbox must be directed directly to the rear and front axles.

The wheels are most often taken from small-sized VAZs (“Oka” or “Niva”) and are shod with tires that correspond to the operating conditions (weather, terrain, etc.). The brake system is selected depending on the wheels. The steering knuckles are also from Niva or Oka.

Four-wheel drive

If you prefer transport with all-wheel drive, requires vehicle steering, differentials and a manual transmission drive.

The existing frame will not fit in this case; a new one should be welded to suit the engine size.

The suspensions, like the steering system, must be taken from the car. On the front it is necessary to provide space for installing the gearbox.

Installing an all-wheel drive model requires not only special skills of the craftsman, but also additional labor costs. The alternative is to buy a ready-made all-wheel drive unit - it costs money.

Frame

Making the body is far from the easiest stage of the story, called: “how to assemble an ATV with your own hands.” Suitable materials are fiberglass and fiberglass; it is easier to make a body kit from the second.

First, you need to draw, cut and construct a “blank” of the body from pieces of durable foam plastic, glued or fastened with polyurethane foam. Then apply several layers of fiberglass on it, coating each with epoxy resin and inserting metal fasteners between them to attach the body to the frame. In conclusion, dry the body thoroughly, then prime, sand and paint.

Today the cost of an IZh motorcycle is quite low. Garage kulibins are constantly posting new diagrams and videos on how. But when getting ready to assemble an all-terrain vehicle, you need to decide on the donor model, since several modifications have been released.

The production of the IZH motorcycle began in the late 20s of the 20th century. Then, in one year, the plant produced five models at once with serial numbers from 1 to 5. Moreover, they differed significantly from each other. The most popular models at that time were the IZH-1 and IZH-2 models, which were equipped with a 24 hp V-engine. With. and a volume of 1.2 liters. These were the first motorcycles with a crankshaft located along the body and a three-speed gearbox that spun the rear wheel. There was a muffler at the bottom of the frame. IZH-2 was equipped with an air fan and a drive to the sidecar wheel.

The next few years there was no such mass production of motorcycles, but work was constantly being done to improve the internals and external design. Until 1946, the plant had accumulated a large number of drawings from Germany, as a result of which there was a significant jump in production. A couple of years after this, a new model IZH-350S appeared. It had a telescopic front suspension, the rear part received oil shock absorbers with springs. The engine had 14 horsepower.

In the mid-80s, they began to produce IZH-Jupiter-5. They were widely known and very popular at that time. This model was reliable and comfortable, although the engine power was slightly reduced. In addition, this motorcycle had an emergency start button.

Assembling an all-terrain vehicle from IZH

There are no fundamental differences between the IL-based models and other models. Initially, you need to draw up a drawing or find it on the Internet. This will allow you to clearly understand the plan for future work. After all, to assemble an ATV you need to have the skills of a welder, turner and designer.

ATV frame

To make an ATV, the Izhov frame needs to be slightly altered. To do this, you need to move the drains under the saddle by 4 cm, and remove the rear ones altogether. Then bevels should be made from them. You also need to get rid of the rear fork. The most important point in assembling an ATV is installing the engine on the frame.
After connecting the internal combustion engine, you should combine its shaft and the rear axle gear using a chain drive. Then you need to bring the power unit control unit to the steering wheel. Then proceed to install the pedals and levers on the frame.

ATV suspension

After this, you can begin to install the pendants. For it they use parts from VAZ or Oka. It is recommended to use used parts, as they will not be very rigid. The body kit can be taken from old cars or Izha. Many people like steering wheel controls from a car rather than a motorcycle. In this case, you need to purchase a mechanism for this.

Steering

If the ATV will be controlled by the steering wheel of a motorcycle, then for these purposes you can use parts from that Izh. The main point in any vehicle is the braking system. You can take it from your car - it will be more reliable. Wheels will help improve the aesthetic appearance different sizes. To make the wings and skin of the ATV, you can use rolled sheets, which can later be painted.

Characteristics

Gasoline consumption and dimensions ATV depend on the selected donor model. Approximately the all-terrain vehicle converted from Izh will be 168 cm long, 1.03 cm high and 1.1 cm wide. The curb weight is approximately 190 kilograms, and fuel consumption ranges from 4 to 7 liters per 100 kilometers.

A quad bike is actually any four-wheeled vehicle, since in Latin “quadro” means “four”. In the CIS, this name most often means all-wheel drive, representing a symbiosis of a motorcycle and a car. From a motorcycle, an ATV has adopted mobility, maneuverability, lightness, speed, and from a car - excellent cross-country characteristics, power and controllability. The end result was unique vehicle, designed for a variety of purposes.

The domestic market provides only foreign models ATVs, the cost of which is often exorbitant. At the same time, on secondary market transport, you can easily find used motorcycles and cars at extremely low prices.

For example, the Ural motorcycle is large, bulky, heavy and power-hungry, has an excellent four-stroke engine with reverse gear and costs a penny. For this reason, it is much cheaper and more fun for enthusiasts to create their own designs of these SUVs.

A typical factory ATV - shiny, neatly built, strong and powerful.

Its homemade brother, which is slightly inferior in appearance, and even more so in terms of power.

How to make an ATV with your own hands

Before you start assembling, you need to make a detailed list of the units and parts that will be needed to create your own brainchild, develop a work plan and a design drawing.

Engine: the optimal choice

It is logical that first of all it is necessary to find the “heart” of the future “beast” - the power unit. Absolutely anything will do, from a regular walk-behind tractor to a six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small-sized.

To use high gear ratios under normal operating conditions, a Minsk or Ural engine will be sufficient. In summer, the issue of overheating arises, so you should choose air-cooled models. Another good option is boxer engines Soviet-made, the undeniable advantage of which is powerful traction and a completely unpretentious cardan transmission.

Suspensions: rear and front

There are two most common rear suspension solutions for ATVs.

1. Gear-cardan system. The design turns out to be as lightweight and simple as possible, but there is no differential, which, in principle, can be sacrificed for the sake of the previously mentioned advantages.
2. Using a road bridge. The design turns out to be extremely heavy, and if there is no desire to have an ATV with a car base, it is necessary to shorten the bridge, which is a very non-trivial task. The only advantage worth highlighting is the presence of a differential, which is useful when driving on highways.

There are huge possibilities for front suspension and steering. ATV suspension arms carry significantly less load than automobile ones; accordingly, they can be made independently, using available means. The best option- creation of a suspension based on the existing Ural motorcycle.

Frame: drawings and alternatives

The best solution is a durable structure made of pipes or profiles welded together.

Ideally, remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and add the necessary elements - this eliminates a number of problems, but the design may turn out to be unnecessarily complex.

ATV assembly

Having prepared necessary tools, donor vehicles and having freed up time, you can start creating your own ATV:

Thanks to its reliable, time-tested design, excellent power and traction, the Ural motorcycle is the most popular donor for homemade ATVs.

Video clip: "Wasp" 4x4

The video below describes the design of a homemade ATV, its characteristics, properties and features.

Photo review

Photos of ATVs on the base domestic motorcycles and cars:

As you can see, using outdated and inexpensive achievements of the Soviet automobile industry, you can create amazing vehicles that will amuse your vanity and satisfy most transport tasks.