Starter relay: description, purpose, device, repair, photo, video. Starter solenoid relay: device, diagram, principle of operation, signs of malfunction, how to check, remove and disassemble, do-it-yourself repair How to check the starter solenoid relay for a mule

A situation familiar to many car enthusiasts is when, after 2-3 unsuccessful attempts to start the engine, a crackling sound from the solenoid relay is heard under the hood and the starter refuses to crank the engine. This is especially true in winter period when the battery capacity drops and it discharges quickly.

In order to better understand the cause of the malfunction of the retractor relay (SR), let's briefly recall the design of the starter itself and how it works on a car.

Let us remind you

The car starter is a short-term electric motor. If power unit does not start after three to five attempts, then you need to look for the reason and not turn it around in vain, since in most cases this affects its further existence. In simple terms, you shouldn’t “rape” him.

Car starter device

The starter consists of a housing (within which the stator winding is located) and a rotor rotating on two bearings, as well as a solenoid relay.

At the end of the rotor shaft there is an overrunning clutch (bendex) equipped with a toothed gear, which, when starting, engages with the crankshaft flywheel.

The relay's job is to turn on the starter and provide a connection to the flywheel to start the engine.

Relay device

The relay consists of a housing in which the windings are located, a core, a return spring, a central contact, a cover with two power contacts, made in the form of bolts, the threads of which protrude from the cover. The cover also has a connector where power comes from the ignition switch when the engine starts.

One of the bolts receives a permanent “plus” from the battery, and the second contact is connected to the stator winding.

The relay core is connected via a plug to the bendex. The fork, in turn, works on the principle of a rocker arm. When the core is retracted, it pushes the overrunning clutch to meet the engine flywheel, and when the core is released, the bendex is retracted.

Scheme of work

When the ignition key is turned to the “start” position, power is supplied to the relay winding, a magnetic field is created in the retractor winding, which draws in the coil core, which closes the power contacts. At the same time, the core pushes the overrunning clutch through the fork to the crankshaft flywheel, causing the latter to rotate.

Structurally, the VR has two windings: retracting and holding.

The retractor winding draws in the core, which, through the central contact, connects the power connectors of the relay, transferring power from the battery to the starter motor, causing the latter to work.

All this time, the holding winding holds the core, providing power to the starter motor.

When the battery is discharged, its strength is enough to activate the retracting winding, but there is not enough voltage for the holding winding. The core moves back under the force of the return spring, and the retracting winding again tries to pull it into the coil, but the holding winding cannot hold it, and it moves back again.

It is precisely these attempts by the relay to force the transfer of power from the battery to the stator winding that the driver hears in the form of frequent clicks (crackling sounds) when the relay core is repeatedly drawn in and released when power is supplied to the relay.

Solenoid relay malfunctions:

Burning of power and central contacts

Return spring failure

Interturn closure

Short circuit in one of the windings

Loosening fasteners

Causes of malfunctions:

Burning of connectors is caused in most cases by poor contact in the connections or long-term operation of the starter, when the engine “refuses” to start for a long time;

Spring breakage can be caused either by mechanical damage or by prolonged voltage supply, when the coils of the spring simply burn out;

An interturn short circuit in the windings also occurs from prolonged exposure to voltage during poor engine starting. The bakelite with which the wires are coated for protection heats up, begins to melt and the turns are connected to each other;

When the protective coating is melted, one of the turns may begin to contact the “ground” of the housing, which will cause a short circuit;

A break may be caused by the burnout of one of the winding turns;

When the BP fastening is loosened, distortion occurs and the core cannot be completely retracted into the body to close the power contacts.

Signs of malfunction:

Single or frequent clicks, starter does not turn

Strong heating of the case

The starter does not turn off

How to check if the relay is working properly

If you hear frequent clicks and the starter does not turn, the cause may be a discharged battery or a weak ground connection.

When one clear click is heard, but the starter does not turn, this “indicates” either that the power connectors are burning, or that there are problems in the starter itself.

In order to make sure that the fault is in the relay itself, you need to bridge its power contacts with a screwdriver (engine in neutral) and if the starter starts working, then the relay itself is “to blame.” It must be removed and tested with a tester.

If the starter does not respond, then the problems may be both in it and in the relay. It requires dismantling, disassembling and troubleshooting all elements.

When the relay does not respond at all to turning the ignition key to the “start” position, you need to check whether power is coming to the control connector at this time (the terminal is located on its cover).

If power does not come, then it is necessary to check the serviceability of the ignition switch and the power circuit from it to the control contact.

When there is power at the control contact, you need to check with a tester how many volts are coming to the power contact from the battery, and then (you need an assistant) when starting the starter, check with a tester how many volts are coming to the second contact.

If, for example, 12.8V comes to the contact from the battery, and 6-7V is transferred, then the power contacts are burnt and must either be cleaned or replaced.

If the relay is dismountable, then you need to loosen the cover and clean the power and central contacts; if the relay is not dismountable, then it must be replaced.

What to do in case of breakdown

If the relay fails, you need, as mentioned above, to put the gearbox in neutral, turn on the ignition and bridge the power contact from the battery and the control connector. The engine will start and you can get to the garage or the nearest service station.

Finally

Periodically check the battery charging and the operation of the generator to ensure that the battery is always in a charged state, capable of delivering the necessary voltage to operate the starter.

Starter with retractor for VAZ 2107

Any movement of a car begins with starting the engine. That is why for the entire system to function properly, it is necessary that the device that starts the engine is in perfect order.

If you believe the statistics, then most often the starter solenoid relay fails in the starting system. However, most drivers know about this. Despite this, when problems with starting the engine begin, many experience a real shock. The main embarrassment of the situation is that it will not be possible to take the car to a service center.

There are, of course, tow truck services. But, firstly, it is expensive, and secondly, in some places there are simply no companies providing such services. Therefore, knowledge of how to restore the starter solenoid relay and how it generally works will not be superfluous.

What is a starter solenoid relay?

So, let's start with the basics. Two relays are responsible for the starter. The first is installed in the engine compartment. The design can have its own housing or be installed in a common unit.

Within the framework of this article we will be much more the second one is more interesting the relay responsible for the operation of the starter, namely the retractor. It performs the following functions:

• redistributes energy between the starter and the electromagnetic relay;
• feeds Bendix gears;
• synchronizes the starter components,
• returns the gears to initial position after you turn off the engine.

In the automotive world, this unit has two names: traction and retraction. The first is most often used in specialized literature, the second is popular.

To understand why a starter solenoid relay is needed, let’s look at the engine’s operation schematically. To start the engine, the crankshaft must begin to rotate. Only after this does the fuel-air mixture ignite in the combustion chamber.

Usually the engine starting process takes place within a second. The role of the relay in it is quite simple. Thanks to it, the gear elements engage with each other. It synchronizes the operation of the starter. This unit also removes the bendix from the flywheel.

How it all started

It is worth recognizing that the starter retractor relay is one of the oldest parts of the car. It was invented back in 1912. The authorship of the invention belongs to Charles Cuttering. This is the legendary founder of the Delco company, which continues to thrive to this day.

By the way, it was the invention of the starter retractor relay that allowed women to drive cars on an equal basis with men. The fact is that before this important discovery, cars were started using a handle that was inserted into a pulley. Then it was necessary to twist it, only after that the car could move. Of course, this required a lot of effort.

Principle of operation

To understand how the starter solenoid relay works, let’s remember a regular electromagnet. The basic principle is the same. The unit consists of two windings: retracting and holding. The design also includes a starter and core activation circuit.

The end of the starter traction relay armature is connected to the plug. The whole structure works on the principle of a lever. The fork is fixed in the central part. It is the end opposite the main unit that moves the bendix. This happens when the electromagnet of the core responsible for retraction is triggered.

The fork, fixed on the axis in the central part, with the end opposite to the retractor relay, moves the bendix when the electromagnet that retracts the core is activated.

When you turn the key in the ignition, voltage is applied to the winding. As a result, a magnetic field is formed. It moves the armature, which compresses the return spring.

The end of the fork moves towards the flywheel. The gear is pushed out and connected to the bendix. Moreover, this happens before the connection with the toothed flywheel occurs.

When engagement occurs, the contacts close. They are integrated into the design of the starter solenoid relay. Two circuits take part in this process, one more powerful and the other weaker.

The first is needed to overcome the spring resistance. During its operation, the retractor winding is deactivated. The anchor, in turn, is fixed. The corresponding winding is responsible for holding it.

When you remove the key from the ignition, the contacts open. The current supply stops. The windings are de-energized. As a result, the spring returns the armature to its place, and the bendix opens with the flywheel.

Diagnostics and repair

Checking the system

Before checking the solenoid relay, you need to test the starter itself. This check will allow you to understand what exactly is not working in the system. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it.

Attention! If you hear characteristic clicks, it means that everything is in order with the starter, but the relay has failed.

Next you will need to open the hood and get to the starter. You must make sure that this is the case. To do this, bridge the two contacts. They are made in the form of two copper bolts. These structural elements are attached to the rear of the solenoid relay (on the body). If, after the manipulations you have performed, the mechanism rotates, then the problem is in the solenoid relay.

In some cars, reaching the starter is very difficult, and sometimes even impossible. In this case, you will have to partially disassemble the system and dismantle the device itself.

Attention! Use extreme caution during inspection. The mechanism rotates with high speed. If you are not careful, you could get injured.

After removing the starter, place it on the ground. Place it nearby battery. Connect the leads of the two devices. In this case, the battery ground is connected to the starter ground.

When the wires are connected, the starter solenoid relay will operate. At first there will be a rather loud click. If the mechanism operates too slowly, be sure to check the contacts. This situation may be caused by the fact that they are burnt.

What kind of damage can happen?

Usually the whole problem lies in burnt contacts or their sticking; other faults include:

• coil burnout,
• mechanical damage,
• natural wear and tear of parts.

In the latter case, the starter solenoid relay will need to be replaced. There are a number of signs that most likely indicate that the problem is in this particular node, these include:

• After the engine starts, the starter continues to operate. This is indicated by a clearly audible buzzing sound.
• When you turn the key in the lock, you can hear a distinct clicking sound. This means that the main system starts, but the starter does not work.
• When you turn the key, the starter idles. The engine remains inactive.

These signs most likely indicate that the malfunction is related to the starter solenoid relay.

How to connect

Many motorists are afraid that after they repair the solenoid relay, they will not be able to connect it. In reality, the connection diagram is quite simple. Moreover, you compose it yourself.

To carry out reverse dismantling, you must first mark the disconnected terminals. This will allow you to connect everything correctly after the repair is completed. Also, before installing the relay, you need to clean the contacts. Use for degreasing modern liquid, sold in automobile stores.

Repair

It is worth recognizing that on machines of the same series, the starter solenoid relays are very similar. The most striking in this context is the following automobile line:

• VAZ 2109,
• VAZ 2106,
• VAZ 2110.

In principle, all starter solenoid relays have the same design. Accordingly, their repair process is similar. The main differences lie in the fastening systems. Also, cores can have different designs. But general scheme very similar.

So, in order to repair the starter solenoid relay, you first need to dismantle and disassemble it. Here, in fact, lies the main problem. In most cars, these units are non-separable. All that remains for the driver in this case is to make a replacement.

It is very important to maintain a clear sequence during repairs. Otherwise, you risk not only damaging the part or other systems, but also getting injured. The process itself consists of the following stages:

• Disconnect power from the battery.
• Clean the part from dust and dirt. Otherwise, foreign particles may get inside the unit, causing damage to it.

• Unscrew the brush assembly nut.
• Remove the contact from the bolt.
• Unscrew the clamping screws. They are the ones that connect the relay to the ground of the car.
• Unscrew the ends of the nuts.
• Divide the device in half.
• Replace the core.
• Reassemble.

Before putting the device back into the car, start it. Reinstallation should only be carried out after preliminary testing. Once everything is assembled, do a few test runs. Only after this go on the road.

What else could break?

Most damage to the solenoid relay is associated with the burnout of certain of its elements. Most often, electromagnetic circuits burn out. Windings and contacts are also subject to similar destruction. In some cases, the cause of failure is metal fatigue.

However, ignition problems are not always associated with the starter or solenoid relay. If the repair does not give the desired results, check the electrical circuit. Also look at how much charge the battery has.

Results

Every car owner can check and repair the solenoid relay. The process itself does not take much time, and its complexity in most cases depends on how conveniently the starter is located.

The starter is one of the main components of the engine. Stable engine starting depends on its proper operation. If in cars with manual transmission An emergency start of the engine in the event of a starter failure can be carried out “from the pusher”, but in a car with an automatic transmission, such an operation cannot be performed when the starter is not working. Therefore, it is important to monitor the serviceability of the starter components, including the solenoid relay.

Purpose and principle of operation of the starter relay

The first starter device without a relay was produced by Charles Cuttering at the beginning of the last century. Initially, it represented a conventional electric motor, which, after starting the engine, switched to generator mode. A little later, the US automaker and inventor Vincent Hugo Bendix proposed a starter device with a built-in start relay, the circuit of which has survived to this day without significant changes.

The starter design includes the following main components:

• starting electric motor;
• starter relay;
• fork;
• leading gear (Bendix).

When the engine starts, the starter interlock relay receives a voltage of 12 volts (at trucks 24 V) from the vehicle’s ignition switch or through an additional starter relay of the electronic engine control system. After the relay is activated, due to the forces of electromagnetic induction, the contact zones (nickels) are closed, due to which the starter motor receives power from the vehicle battery. At the same time, the anchor of the starter traction relay moves the fork (relay lever), which pushes the clutch idle move with a gear called Bendix in honor of its inventor. The gear meshes with the engine flywheel. The rotating starter motor starts the engine.

Thus, the starter relay simultaneously performs two main functions: electrically connecting the contact areas to supply voltage to the starting motor and driving the bendix into engagement of the gear with the flywheel.

The starter traction relay includes the following components:

• frame;
• retracting and holding windings (sometimes combined);
• relay armature;
• relay core;
• armature return spring;
• relay lever (plug);
• stock;
• damper spring;
• contact plate;
• contact bolts;
• contact coins;
• contact plate return spring.

In general, the result is a rather complex device, in which there is something to break.

Starter relay assembly diagram

Main malfunctions of the starter relay, their symptoms

During vehicle operation, the starter is subjected to high overloads. As a rule, it is installed in the lower third of the engine, so it is constantly in the reach of dust, dirt, and foreign liquids (oils, antifreeze, water) in the car. Structurally, the relay is combined with the main structure of the starter. Considering where the starter relay is located, it bears no less load. In addition, the starting currents of the starter reach 500 Amperes or more, and this leads to the destruction of the contact areas of the coins, plate and bolts.

Main malfunctions of the starter retractor relay:

• breakage, destruction or burnout of relay windings;
• destruction of the contact zones of the nickels and the contact plate;
• burning of bolt clamps;
• plug malfunction (usually a bummer);
• sticking of the relay rod or armature;
• destruction of springs.

Each of these malfunctions has its own symptoms. So, a malfunction of the relay winding leads to a general malfunction of the starter: it stops working. Destruction of the contact zones of the nickels can cause a problem with the starter working “every other time”. A broken fork will cause the solenoid relay to click, but the starter drive may not start. Sticking of the rod and armature, breakage of the springs leads to unstable operation of the starter, and possible jamming of the bendix at the moment of starting. This is dangerous in terms of possible damage to engine systems.

Therefore, it is important to know how to check the starter solenoid relay during its operation.

How to check the starter relay yourself

The starter activation relay is located directly on the starter, usually in the upper or side structural area. There is good access to it, if, of course, you can find access to the starter at all. In many cars, the starter is located in the “dead” zone under the exhaust manifold in the space between the engine and the passenger compartment.

Checking the starter solenoid relay begins with measuring the winding resistance. In some older vehicles, the starter relay coil is supplied with voltage directly from the ignition switch. You should use a multimeter to “ring” (measure the resistance) the relay coil. In new cars, the starter relay is energized through the engine control system relay. It is usually installed in the engine compartment fuse and relay box. It's better to take advantage electrical diagram auto.

This operation can also be done directly at the starter. There are two wires going to it: one thick one from the battery, the other thin one to the starter relay. The resistance between the starter relay output and the vehicle ground should be in the range from 0.5 to 5 ohms. But there is a “BUT” here. In most generator circuits, the starter drive motor is included in the starter relay circuit. Therefore, if the brushes are worn out and the contact of the electric motor is lost, the relay will not ring through this method, and the starter will not work. Experienced auto electricians advise knocking on the starter (you need to knock hard), perhaps the brushes will come off and the starter will start working.

All other faults can be determined either by ear, but better by dismantling the starter.

Removing and replacing the starter relay

Before disassembling the starter relay, it must be removed along with the starter itself. In some cars this can be done from the hood side. Sequence for removing the starter relay:

• put the car on the parking brake;
• disconnect the negative terminal of the car battery;
• provide access to the starter;
• remove the conductors connected to the starter located on the relay;
• unscrew the three (usually) starter mounting bolts;
• remove the starter;
• unscrew the screws holding the starter relay to the housing (usually also 3, located at the end of the relay);
• Carefully disassemble the starter relay while holding the plug.

After disassembling the starter relay, you can visually identify all faults. Problems usually arise with the starter fork: in many cars it is made of impact-resistant plastic. Do-it-yourself repair of the starter solenoid relay is possible if the windings are not damaged.

The starter relay is installed and connected in the reverse order. Before connecting the starter to the car, it is necessary to check the serviceability on a stand, or simply on a table, by connecting a battery to it and briefly applying positive voltage from the battery to the solenoid relay. After this, the starter is installed in its regular place and connected to the on-board equipment.

To make the solenoid relay last longer, you should:

• carefully tighten the bolts securing the current-carrying conductors to the starter relay;
• periodically clean the starter housing from dust and dirt;
• start the engine for no more than 15 seconds;
• If extraneous noise appears during startup or when the starter does not turn, dismantle the starter and perform routine maintenance.

If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them

Hello, dear car enthusiasts! Before any car, obeying the wishes of the owner, leaves the garage and goes from point “A” to point “B”, it must be started. Most modern car users, who can hardly be called car enthusiasts, trust the repair and maintenance of their cars to specialists from service centers.

There is nothing bad about this, unless you take into account the fact that cars are used thoughtlessly and carelessly. A self-respecting driver, even if he does not personally take part in the repair of the car, must know its structure, the main signs of malfunctions, and the procedure for eliminating them. This is necessary at least in order not to look stupid in a conversation with a car mechanic and not to fall into the hands of repair scammers.

Since the movement of a car begins with starting the engine, first of all, it is necessary to master the design of the starting system. One of the most vulnerable places is the solenoid relay. Everyone has heard about this part, but not many understand the principle of its operation and its structure.

A relatively small unit plays a key role in starting the engine. If, in the event of a breakdown of other parts, the operation of the car is possible, then a broken starter relay completely paralyzes the car.

Starter traction relay - why is it needed?

Before you begin to study the retractor relay device, you need to understand that two relays are responsible for the operation of the starter, which should not be confused. The first is the starter activation relay, located in the engine compartment.

Depending on the make and model of the car, it can be made in a separate housing or mounted in a common unit together with other relays.

The second is a solenoid relay, which is installed directly on the starter and performs the following functions:

• redistribution of electricity between the relay electromagnet and the starter motor;
• synchronization of the operation of the starter components when starting the engine;
• feed of the bedix gear until it engages with the teeth of the flywheel ring;
• returning the gear to its original position after starting.

In the literature you can find a slightly changed name for the same relay - starter traction relay. In popular automotive parlance, this device is simply called “retractor”.

In order for the engine to start, it is necessary to forcibly rotate the crankshaft until the combustion chambers begin to ignite fuel mixture. In a working motor, this requires a “second” of time.

The task of the retractor relay is to synchronize the operation of the starter, ensure the engagement of the working parts of the gears and remove the bendix from the flywheel after the engine starts.

The design of the starter retractor relay and its operating principle

The starter traction relay is located above the starter in a strong connection with it. If necessary, it can be easily removed, but this can only be done with the starter removed.

Different manufacturers offer relays in two versions: collapsible, which, if necessary, can be diagnosed, inspected and repaired, and non-dismountable, which can be replaced entirely in the event of a breakdown.

The main parts of the relay are:

• frame;
• anchor;
• magnet with windings (retracting and holding);
• return spring;
• contacts.

After turning the key in the ignition switch, an electromagnetic field appears in the coil on the retractor winding and the armature, being attracted, moves into the core, which, through a lever, engages the Bendix working gear with the flywheel crown.

As soon as the core reaches its extreme position, the “retractor” of the starter closes a pair of contacts, which are called “nickels”. At this moment, the holding winding is turned on and current is supplied to the motor winding, which begins to rotate the shaft and the flywheel meshed with the gear.

When the engine starts, the contacts in the ignition switch open, the supply of electricity to the starter is stopped, and the return spring returns the armature to its original position, and with it the gear with the overrunning clutch. This is, in fact, the operating principle of the starter solenoid relay.

Sometimes vehicle doesn't want to start. And, what’s worst, this very often happens at the most inopportune and inconvenient moment. This situation is familiar to many motorists. Of course, we have to do something about it. And, if the car's electrical system is in perfect order and charged, then the problem may lie in the starter, namely in its peripheral devices. It is likely that the starter traction (retractor) relay is faulty. You can't do without repairs here, so you'll have to prepare for it. After all, it will be much easier for a trained person to overcome any difficulties, including repairing the starter solenoid relay.

1. How to check the starter solenoid relay?

The starter, in its essence, is very simple in its design. And, if there are instructions for this automotive component, then even the most inexperienced motorist can deal with its repair. It is important to remember that the most difficult thing is to dismantle it and then mount it back. Other work is done once or twice. But before you start repairing the starter, you need to figure out what the breakdown is and what place needs to be repaired. The first thing to do is check the battery charge, as problems can also arise from it. If you change the battery and this does not give any results, then you will have to repair the starter.

It is likely that the ignition switch or the starter switch located under the car hood on the mudguard is faulty. Their malfunction can be determined by characteristic sounds. If the starter makes absolutely no sounds, then most likely the ignition switch and starter relay are in order, and the causes of the malfunction lie in a completely different place. First, let's look at the principle of operation of the starter.

So, the starter, like its solenoid relay, works based on the principles of electromagnetism. When voltage is applied to the windings, it attracts the armature. This anchor moves the Bendix gear until it engages with the splines on the flywheel ring. In parallel with this, the contacts are closed, through which voltage is transmitted to the starter winding. After all contacts have closed, the coil of the solenoid relay stops receiving power, although the armature will continue to be held inside due to the created magnetic field. When the engine starts, the armature is pulled into place by the return spring and the bendix is ​​released.

All described processes are completely interdependent and occur almost simultaneously. If at least one connection is broken, the car will not start. This means that you will have to look for the breakdown and try with all your might to eliminate it. Often starter breakdowns are caused by breakdowns of its retractor relay.

The most common causes of breakdowns of the car starter solenoid relay:

1. Burnt starter winding or relay.

2. Combustion of contact plates (popularly called nickels) inside the relay.

3. Gradual destruction of the materials from which the device is made (including from old age).

Before you start checking the functionality of the starter solenoid relay, you should check the starter itself. To do this, you just need to turn the ignition key and listen. If the starter does not work, but some clicks are heard, this means that the starter is not working, but its solenoid relay is in order and the cause of the breakdown lies in something else.

Signs of malfunction of the car starter solenoid relay:

1. The starter does not turn off after starting the engine and continues to rotate at a very high speed, as evidenced by the buzzing sound.

2. After turning the key in the lock, you hear a click, which means the device is turned on, but the starter does not start.

3. When you turn the key in the lock, you hear that the starter rotates idle, but the engine itself does not start to work.

How can you know for sure that the cause of the malfunction lies precisely in the solenoid relay?

In fact, you can accurately check the serviceability of the retractor relay even before removing the starter from the car. This is very convenient as it saves a lot of time and resources.

To check the solenoid relay, you need to do the following:

1. Using a metal object or a piece of wire, close the contact bolts located on the back of the starter. This way the voltage will go directly to the starter windings without passing through the solenoid relay windings.

2. If after turning the ignition key the starter starts to rotate, then it is working properly, and the breakdown really lies in the solenoid relay.

3. If, after turning the ignition key, you hear the retractor relay clicking, but the starter itself does not work, then the relay is working properly, and the causes of the malfunction will need to be looked for elsewhere.

If you were unable to get to the contacts of the solenoid relay, you will need to dismantle it. When you check or repair any starter parts with your own hands, be extremely careful and attentive, since any incorrect movements can lead not only to breakdowns of car components, but also to injuries. Particular care should be taken when checking a dismantled relay (the rotation of the mechanisms is very strong and they can simply break out and cause injury to the motorist)

2. Repair of the starter solenoid relay.

If you determine that the causes of starter malfunctions lie in its solenoid relay, then you will have to repair the starter solenoid relay. As practice shows, such repairs often end with a complete replacement of the solenoid relay. What is this connected with? The fact is that some manufacturers of automotive components produce retractor relays that are completely non-separable, thus trying to achieve greater reliability of this element. And, if you have a non-separable solenoid relay installed in your starter, then there is no other option but replacement.

But it also happens that the solenoid relay is disassembled. In this case, you can try to restore its functionality. As already noted, the causes of malfunction of the solenoid relay are the combustion of its contacts, short circuits in its winding, or simple wear and tear of its components. After disassembling the solenoid relay, problems with diagnosing the causes of failure should not arise, since any breakdown will be noticeable to the naked eye. But to check the serviceability of the winding, you will need an ohmmeter that is connected to the starter relay.

If the resistance value is no less than 10 ohms, then everything is in order with the winding. And, if this indicator is lower, this indicates a short circuit in the windings and you will have to buy and install a completely new relay, since replacing the winding is extremely difficult. But to repair the starter solenoid relay, it must first be completely removed from the car.

The process of dismantling the starter solenoid relay consists of the following steps:

1. Completely disconnect the battery from the power supply (otherwise, this may result in a short circuit and fire in all vehicle wiring).

2. Remove the starter from the vehicle.

3. Clean the starter from dirt and dust. This must be done carefully to prevent dirt from getting inside the unit.

4. Unscrew the corresponding nuts from the brush assembly and remove the contact from the solenoid relay bolt.

5. Unscrew the screws that secure the relay to ground.

6. Remove the solenoid relay from the starter.

After the relay has been removed, it is either replaced with a new one or repaired. If you have a collapsible mechanism and you decide to repair it, then you should do the following:

1. Unscrew the nuts on the ends of the solenoid relay and divide it into parts.

2. Remove the old core and replace it with a new one.

3. Reassemble all elements in reverse order.

The solenoid relay is installed back into the starter in the opposite order to removing this component. To avoid confusion, we recommend marking the terminals when removing the relay. This way there will be no issues during re-installation. It is also important to remember that before reinstallation, all contacts should be cleaned and thoroughly degreased. After installation, be sure to check all parts for functionality and make sure that the work done is correct.