The engine does not pull, where to look for the reasons. Why doesn't the engine rev up? List of reasons and sequence of actions 2114 16 valve is not gaining momentum

In the life of motorists, a situation often arises when, when driving out onto the road and trying to accelerate, it is noted that the engine does not pull.

That is, the acceleration dynamics are very “sluggish”, the car is reluctant to pick up speed, and it feels like something is holding it back.

This problem can arise with almost any car - domestic or foreign, gasoline or diesel, with a carburetor power system and injector.

Often, a drop in traction is accompanied by additional symptoms - extraneous sounds appear when the engine is running, the engine may stall in one of the modes (usually at idle), the crankshaft speed is not stable and “floats”.

But this is not always the case; it happens that the unit behaves perfectly in all respects, but does not develop power.

Main reasons

There are many reasons for this phenomenon and in most cases they are associated with a malfunction of the systems and mechanisms of the power plant.

Some of them are trivial and very easy to fix, others require quite serious repairs.

The main problem with the fact that the engine does not pull is not related to eliminating the malfunction, but to finding it.

In some cases, it is very difficult to determine what caused the reduction in traction effort and you have to go through almost the entire engine.

Therefore, we will try to indicate the main reasons why the car accelerates very “sluggishly”.

Since engines on different cars have their own design features, then we will consider specific models.

Power drop on a VAZ carburetor engine

To begin with, let's take VAZ cars with a carburetor power system and an 8-valve timing system - VAZ-2109, VAZ-2110, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115.

These cars are equipped with the same power point, therefore the reasons are identical.

Let's go through those components, due to malfunction of which a drop in dynamics may occur.

In general, the main reason that the engine does not pull is a change in the processes in the combustion chambers - a mismatch in the proportions of the air-fuel mixture, the combustion process is disrupted, the filling of the cylinders and the removal of exhaust gases does not occur as required.

Supply system

Very often, a drop in traction occurs due to the power system. Structurally, the carburetor fuel system used on cars from VAZ-2109 to VAZ-2115 is very simple and is almost completely mechanical, so identifying the cause is not particularly difficult.

A decrease in power can occur due to:

In addition to the elements responsible for supplying fuel, a drop in power also occurs due to severe contamination of the air filter element.

Ignition system

This system also takes part in the combustion of the mixture, which means a failure in its operation can affect power.

In carburetor engines VAZ-2110 and others, a decrease in traction can occur due to:

• Faulty spark plugs or changes in their thermal gap;
• Excessive wear of the contacts and the central electrode of the distributor;
• Voltage losses in high-voltage wires;
• Violations of the ignition timing.

Irregularities in the power supply and ignition systems most often cause a drop in power, so testing to identify the cause should begin with them.

If the operation of these systems does not raise suspicions, other components of the engine should be diagnosed.

Exhaust system, timing belt and crankshaft

Loss of traction can also occur due to the exhaust gas removal system, although problems with it rarely occur on carburetor engines.

The main reason here is the reduction in throughput due to large soot in the muffler. Because of this, exhaust gases, without having time to escape from the cylinders, “choke” the engine.

The reasons for the drop in thrust are also often the gas distribution mechanism and the cylinder-piston group.

Here the reduction in power occurs due to:

• Violations of the thermal clearance of valves;
• Heavy carbon deposits on the valve plates and seats, or their burning;
• Occurrence of rings;
• Limit wear of the CPG;
• Cylinder head gasket failure.

In general, problems with the timing belt and CPG cause a drop in power in any engine - carburetor, injection, diesel. Therefore, we will not mention these mechanisms further.

VAZ injection engines

In injection engines VAZ-2110, 2112, 2114, 2115, both 8-valve and with a timing belt with 16 valves, it is more difficult to identify the cause of the decrease in power due to the more complex design of the main systems.

Supply system

Any injector consists of a mechanical executive part and an electronic control part, and problems can arise in both of them, which will lead to a drop in power.

Let's look at the mechanical part first. Here, cravings can be influenced by:

• Severely clogged mesh filter on the fuel pump;
• Decrease in fuel pump performance due to wear;
• The fine filter is dirty;
• Malfunction of the fuel rail pressure regulator;
• Clogged injectors;
• Fuel filter dirty;
• Air leak in the manifold.

In general, almost every element of the injector executive part can be the culprit for a decrease in dynamics.

The situation is approximately the same in the electronic component.

The operation of the engine with the injector is controlled by an electronic unit, which constantly monitors the parameters through sensors installed on different systems.

The number of these tracking elements is considerable and the breakdown of any of them leads to the fact that the ECU incorrectly evaluates the indicators on the basis of which it controls the executive part.

Because of this, the DPKV readings are disrupted, as a result the operation of the ignition system is disrupted, which leads to a drop in traction.

In injection engines, the exhaust gas removal system more often creates this problem than on a carburetor car, and all because of the use.

The element's honeycombs have a small cross-section, so they become clogged quite quickly, which leads to exhaust gases “crushing” the engine.

Main reasons with engines of other cars

So, on a Mitsubishi Lancer 9, the problem most often arises with the exhaust gas exhaust system. This car uses a double catalyst, which becomes clogged with carbon deposits relatively quickly.

Therefore, many owners of this car, when the power drops, recommend first of all paying attention to this system.

But in the ZMZ-406 and 405 engines, which are equipped with GAZelle and Volga cars, a drop in power often occurs due to:

• Ignition coil malfunctions;
• Losses in high-voltage wires;
• Non-working spark plugs;
• Failure of sensors (primarily DPKV).

But do not forget about the other above-mentioned elements of the power supply, ignition, as well as timing and CPG systems.

In Ford Focus cars, in general, problems with loss of traction arise due to malfunctions of sensors, as well as elements of the power system - especially the fuel module, which includes both a fuel pump and a filter, combined into a single structure.

Much the same applies to a car like the Renault Megane. In this machine, power loss may occur due to:

• Wear of the distributor cover;
• Faulty spark plugs and high voltage wires;
• Weak exhaust system capacity;
• Worn fuel pump and dirty filter elements;
• Damaged injector sensors.

In general, first of all, you should look for the cause in the power and ignition systems, and only then move on to the timing belt and CPG.

If the diesel engine doesn't work

A decrease in traction can also occur in diesel engines. If we look at old cars that have completely mechanical power systems, then the most common cause is depressurization of the system.

Unstable engine operation makes you want to identify the reasons why the engine does not gain speed or does not develop sufficient traction, and what is causing the breakdown. Imagine, you press the gas pedal, but the engine simply “refuses” to obey the command, and the speed does not increase.

Or the engine picks up speed up to a certain point, and then it’s as if something is holding it back, but the power does not develop. The task of diagnosing this phenomenon is quite complex, which can be caused by many factors.

One of the common reasons that the engine cannot gain speed and develop sufficient power is a malfunction of the fuel system. For all types of engines, regardless of the type of fuel, the fuel system must be checked for operability first, and especially the technical condition of the fuel pump.
For this purpose You can use coarse sandpaper. Now you need to carefully examine the condition of the distributor and. Then it will be necessary to measure the wires so that one of them does not have too much resistance, or that there is no break in it.

A block with ballasts may fail and may also be the cause of the problem in question. To find it, lift the hood and you can easily see a ribbed block under the windshield. This is ballast resistance.

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Other reasons

Another reason why the engine does not develop power is the air being sucked into the cylinders; on the way after the mass air flow sensor there is an air flow sensor. The fact is that the mass air flow sensor supplies information to the machine’s computer about how much air has entered the cylinders, and it, in turn, calculates the composition of the fuel mixture. And since the information is unreliable due to excess air, the mixture becomes lean, which leads to reduced engine thrust.

Replacing the clogged air filter, which must be changed every six months. The fact is that due to dirt in the filter, the supply of air masses becomes difficult, as a result of which the engine barely picks up speed and develops very little power.

It wouldn't hurt to take a look on the color of the exhaust gases: If they are black, the operation of the check valve may be impaired.

One of possible reasons If the engine fails and it is unable to develop the required power, a simple breakdown of the car’s computer can occur. If so, then

VAZ-2114 cars, from the start of production, are equipped with eight-valve engines with a volume of 1.5 liters. Since 2007, eight valve engine 1.6 l., having an environmental class Euro-4. The operation of the car, sometimes incorrectly, brings “surprises” over time. not on full power, traction decreases. Let's try to understand the causes and methods of elimination.

The dynamics of a car, first of all, depend on the stable and stable operation of the engine. When this characteristic decreases, it indicates that there are problems with the engine.

Engine VAZ-2114

Unstable engine operation is caused by the following:

• The fuel filter is dirty.
• The fuel pump diaphragm is clogged.
• They don't work or .
• Insufficient.
• The on-board computer is malfunctioning.
• The injectors are clogged (they need to be cleaned or).
• The clutch disc is worn.
• Malfunctions of sensors that monitor: crankshaft position; coolant temperature; ; detonation.

These are only some of the possible reasons why the engine may not pull well throughout the entire speed range.

It is worth mentioning the fuel pump, which fails. Real situation things are determined by detailed diagnostics.

Brief analysis of the causes and their consequences on the VAZ-2114

1. Fine filter dirty . Determined visually. Debris particles present in fuel tank, gasoline, accumulate in the filter, and the channels become clogged. There is not enough fuel supplied. "Treatment" - .

   We change fuel filter

2. The fuel pump diaphragm is clogged . The reason is the same, there are dirt particles in gasoline. Solved by excavation, washing, blowing with compressed air

   Changing the fuel pump grid

3. The air filter is clogged . For a short time, it can be solved by blowing out the filter, you can knock on a hard object. Ideally, the filter is replaced with a new one.

   Clean or change the air filter

4. Spark plugs do not work or work poorly . Determined by inspection after unscrewing. One of the reasons - . The gaps are checked with a feeler gauge and the required one is installed. To do this, bend the side electrode to the required amount.

   Checking the gap between the spark plug electrodes

5. Formed. The electrodes are sanded with sandpaper (zero), cleaned, and the gap is checked.

   Cleaning spark plugs from carbon deposits

6. The serviceability of spark plugs is checked on a stationary stand. If problems occur, it must be replaced.

   It is best to check spark plugs at a stand in a car service center.

7. Insufficient compression in cylinders . This defect appears as a result of high wear of the cylinder-piston group. The result is increased consumption oil, incomplete combustion of the combustible mixture, gasoline enters the crankcase. In some cases it is enough to replace piston rings, in others, a major engine overhaul is required.

   We measure the compression in each cylinder

8. Failure or breakdown of the electronic control unit . Without special knowledge it is impossible to repair. Diagnostics in progress special devices. Re-flashing is possible, or the control unit can be completely changed.

   We carry out diagnostics of the control unit

9. The injectors are clogged . . There are fuel additives, but they don’t give much effect. Replacement may be required, so read the material: ““.

   You can clean injectors at home

10. The clutch disc is worn out . While driving, when the speed increases, the car does not gain the required speed, and slipping is felt. It is checked by experts by starting off in fourth gear. If it stalls, everything is fine with the disk; if the engine is running, then there is a problem. Solved by replacing the clutch disc.

    Sensor lights up Check engine indicates a malfunction of the sensors

conclusions

Maintenance, which should be carried out according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, will avoid many problems. The only question is where to go, at the “Kulibins”, or at specialized service stations equipped with the necessary equipment and equipment. The choice is up to the owner vehicle. The sooner the prerequisites for the failure of a particular part are identified, the less financial losses in the future. It should be remembered that timely maintenance increases the safe operation of the vehicle.

In the absence of obvious breakdowns, why does the VAZ 2114 engine not run? The question is very relevant, especially for the domestic automobile industry. Often this category of car surprises us at the most unexpected moment. The driver then has to play a guessing game about where and what. In fact, there can be many reasons for the “weakness” of the engine.

Not many people are able to clearly identify the source of the breakdown the first time. Only experienced drivers can boast of this. In order to provide methodological advice to new car owners, as well as to replenish the memory of experienced ones, we will carefully consider each of them.

Why doesn't the VAZ 2114 engine pull? A simple solution would be to get to the nearest service station at low speed. If this is not the case, then let's start with a list of reasons so that it is clear where to look.

List of reasons for power loss
The fuel filter is dirty: Gasoline with various additives in the form of debris, rust, wool passing through the filter, settles in it and clogs the channels.

Accelerates slowly, does not reach max. speed

As a result, poor throughput makes it more and more difficult for the engine to pump fuel. Only needed complete replacement filter elements. Contamination can only be determined by eye. For more details, read the article: “List of reasons that the fuel filter is clogged.”

Malfunction of the mass air flow sensor: Perhaps the most common problem that causes the mixture to become rich or lean. You can test it in the following way: disconnect the terminal on the sensor and start the engine, a red lamp will light up on the display, indicating a breakdown in the system, no big deal.

The speed will increase significantly to 1500-2000 rpm. try driving a few hundred meters, if the car is the same as before, then buy a sensor at the nearest store. The reason for this is untimely replacement air filter.

The fuel pump diaphragm is clogged: As is the case with filters, the cause is dirty gasoline. To clean, simply unscrew the fuel pump cover bolt, remove the diaphragm and clean it. Read about the signs of a faulty fuel pump.

Air filter clogged with dust: The element can be compared to a person’s lungs; accordingly, the dirtier it is, the more difficult it is to breathe. If you don’t have a new filter at hand, but you need to drive further, you can take the filter out of the casing, blow it a little, and tap it on a hard surface. This way, some of the dust and dirt will be removed, and you can proceed further. You should carefully inspect for the presence of dry leaves, insects, and moths. Since only large obstacles can block the air supply.

Candles are fiddling: Due to poor quality or significant wear, sometimes the spark charge “slips”, the fuel does not ignite fully, and the combustion chamber is literally choked with gasoline. It can be eliminated by completely replacing it with a new set or unscrewing everything one by one and looking at the color.

Typically black or wet asphalt indicate excess gasoline and insufficient ignition. It is necessary to wipe with a dry cloth, preferably with “0” sandpaper and screw it back in. Getting to the nearest auto shop is all it takes to fix it. See "Signs of Bad Spark Plugs."

Low compression in cylinders: Boiling due to systematic overheating and high wear can cause a sharp drop in compression pressure in the engine. What leads to consumption motor oil in large volumes, incomplete combustion in the chamber, air leaks, gasoline getting into the crankcase. Here, improvised means will not help. The engine must be overhauled. It can only be determined by the presence of a mixture of fuel and oil on the dipstick. The article “How to check compression in cylinders” can help.

System failure in the on-board computer: Factory defect or random computer glitch. There is only one way out - to get to a service station by any means and carry out diagnostics. It is not recommended to repair the firmware yourself, as this should only be done by a qualified specialist.

Injectors clogged: The situation is also common and has two solutions. The first is a trip to the service station, the second is to get to the nearest car store and purchase an injector cleaner. Typically, this is a liquid in a bottle designed to be poured into a tank. While driving, passing through the fuel channels, it cleans them of various dirt and rye. The engine acquires the same dynamics and throttle response. But the product may not always be effective, it all depends on the degree of contamination.

Related articles:
Of course, it is impossible to list all the reasons and answer why the VAZ 2114 engine does not pull. Because the most incredible and unusual situations happen in life. But every driver should know the main reasons so as not to get confused along the way and not find himself helpless.

Conference > Chatter > Cars > Car won't pull!

View full version: The car won't pull!

28-04-2012, 22:33

In general, we need the help of knowledgeable people, the car pulls poorly, i.e. the gas is in the floor and it doesn’t go, only then it accelerates slowly. In the first gear the speed rises sharply but goes very slowly... in the second uphill it also very slowly sometimes choke. What could be ?Under the hood, everything is normal, except for the capital. Before that, we rode in 5th, I thought it was loaded, but when in 2 or 1, the difference is not very big.
CAR VAZ 2115 Year of manufacture 2004 December

P/S a friend has a VAZ 2114, it generally undermines how much current it can.

Tell me what to do, maybe change the engine, it seems normal

28-04-2012, 22:34

check the clutch, it may be slipping

Airat Clarkson

28-04-2012, 22:34

bgggg
Why should it rip from the start like with a V8??

agree

28-04-2012, 22:37

clutch is new(((

28-04-2012, 22:38

bgggg
Why should she be tearing up from the start or something? You see, I have something to compare with my friend’s 14, well, she’s a year newer, but she’s rushing so fast, well, in a straight line it still doesn’t feel that way, but sometimes I even stall uphill...

28-04-2012, 22:39

it doesn't matter

Airat Clarkson

28-04-2012, 22:39

ok, let's be serious.
We'll see if the acceleration is sluggish because it's preparing the wrong mixture.
second, check the condition of the spark plugs.

if there was a clutch, then the revolutions would simply increase, and the car would accelerate quietly, but he says sometimes he choke

or just fill some thread with gasoline shit

28-04-2012, 22:40

Elementary today we were driving uphill (after the Zatonsky bridge) a Matiz with two girls passed us... I couldn’t get around them, well, there were 5 of us in the car

Airat Clarkson

28-04-2012, 22:40

and what does it mean after the capital?? check the compression!! how many points??

muhahaha:D:D:D

28-04-2012, 22:41

A new MAF costs 2 weeks, I fill it with petrol at Lukoil

28-04-2012, 22:42

it’s funny to you, but something needs to be done with the wheelbarrow

Airat Clarkson

28-04-2012, 22:42

well here is the answer
your DMRV is most likely a fake

Alternatively, try another one and see how it goes

I’m not afraid to ask about the fine filter and the fuel pump mesh.. he’ll say he changed it a month ago

28-04-2012, 22:43

Well, it was at 37, the car twitched and generally ran poorly, I set it to 16 and it stopped.

28-04-2012, 22:43

1. Engine malfunction: decreased compression in one or more cylinders, leakage of additional air into the engine intake tract. Coking of the exhaust system or damage to the exhaust gas converter (if the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic converter).

2. Malfunction of the power supply system: clogged injectors and fuel filter, hoses of the fuel supply system. Insufficient fuel pump supply. Use of low quality fuel.

3. Malfunction of the ignition system: failure of the spark plug, breakdown of the high-voltage circuit of the system.

4. Engine management system malfunction: failure of system sensors. If any sensor fails, the electronic control unit switches to working according to a backup program, allowing you to get to a garage or car service center, but at the same time the power and economic characteristics of the engine are reduced.

5.Clutch slipping due to wear or misadjustment.

6. Malfunction brake system: braking of one or more wheels while driving, incorrect adjustment of the parking brake.

7.Insufficient air pressure in tires.

8. Vehicle overload.

Airat Clarkson

28-04-2012, 22:44

yyyy
by the way! agree! There may be a ton of options!
The fuel pump may also be pumping poorly!

28-04-2012, 22:44

I don’t know exactly when it was changed... well, the car service didn’t seem to say anything.

Airat Clarkson

28-04-2012, 22:45

Did you select this as an experiment?
you need to install it the same way it was before

28-04-2012, 22:47

In general, recommend some kind of normal car service. Because there seem to be so many people and so many opinions. And the approximate price to check all this, the most offensive thing is that at the diagnostic they said that everything is fine, or the diagnostician is crooked or something, but I feel that everything is not because it should be, and by the way, maybe it’s because of the brains that this nonsense is happening?

The Matiz was boosted by two girls, but you didn’t have a single boost out of 5 people, although there could have been all five and the Matiz would have been breathing fumes from your exhaust 😎

Airat Clarkson

28-04-2012, 22:48

M-Tuning wrote it correctly
you need to start watching everything consistently, otherwise you just won’t find out

28-04-2012, 22:49

Well, at a car service center I can find out the reason, how much will it cost?

28-04-2012, 22:50

Can brain firmware fix it?

28-04-2012, 22:51

Now I’m racking my brains about what’s wrong... I still twitch when switching

Airat Clarkson

28-04-2012, 22:52

Looks like you have a bug somewhere in the sensors

You say the engine is capitalized, what is the compression right now?

You can’t guess how much the service will cost, you need to check everything sequentially, I’ll say it again

28-04-2012, 22:55

The engine was not capitalized or the compression was in 2 cylinders of 12 each, in the others I don’t remember 9, like or something like that

28-04-2012, 22:59

go to the service center and let the specialists figure out what your problem is.

28-04-2012, 23:00

That’s what I want, but it’s all about money, you need to know how much it will cost to find the cause, and eliminating it is another matter, because they won’t look for it for free either

28-04-2012, 23:06

There could be a lot of reasons for this! It’s easier to go to the service center and not worry

there was a 5 cylinder Matiz 😀

I have the same problem((the service center said I need to tighten the turbine

Five Hundred and One

29-04-2012, 00:59

is the check light on? I had this happen, the computer showed an open circuit in the knock sensor.

Why does the VAZ 2114 gain momentum poorly?

you press the gas, but it doesn’t accelerate at all

29-04-2012, 01:08

check the light bulbs on the foot by the way

What does a cracked manifold affect? well, except for the tractor sound 😀

29-04-2012, 11:32

harness two more horses

Have you washed your engine recently?
Is the ignition module OK?
Go to AvtoVAZ for diagnostics, you’ll pay ~500 - 1000 rubles for it.

If you can't afford diagnostics, is it worth buying a car?

have you been driving for a long time?)) what gear are you driving uphill in?))) otherwise my sister’s Matiz didn’t pull uphill in 4th until they told me to put it in a lower gear

Clean the injectors, it will take about 30 minutes

29-04-2012, 22:06

the gasket needs to be changed

prices are like a foreign car 😮

look at the fuel filter, there were dips when accelerating, it turned out the filter was clogged, the scribe turns out to be some kind of gasoline))))) pieces of rags and hair)))

29-04-2012, 23:35

In short, go here: http://vk.com/gttclub say “from Talis” 😀

29-04-2012, 23:38

By the way, yes......maybe the wheel was flat? Without a wheel the car drives like crap......

You will make porn on your service and distribute the discs at crossroads.

that is if the boobs are normal!
for the ones in the photo - a maximum of 3% discount: D: D: D

30-04-2012, 00:17

The one in the photos, as you can see, is free, but if she gets too much current herself.

30-04-2012, 08:09

When the clutch slips, the engine does not choke.

30-04-2012, 08:14

GIT engine? Two camshafts? :D:D:D

Latvian shooter

30-04-2012, 22:32

Take a second car of the same type. Drive onto the Ufa-Beloretsk highway. Immediately after the mother-in-law’s tongue, see if the car goes on the 3rd or not? For me, when everything is normal, it comes out in 3rd. But sometimes it only goes with 2nd, which means the gas is bad this time

And it turned out to be cooler than a 4-cylinder basin with a load of 5 members... ugh... people 😀

SPL-Club Kirov

VAZ 2114 does not move when you press the gas pedal

If the engine does not pull (loss of power, dips or jerks)

Possible cause of malfunction	Checking (diagnosis) of a malfunction	Troubleshooting methods
The control impulse from the DPKV arrives at the wrong time due to delamination of the crankshaft damper (the gear has moved relative to the pulley)	Visual inspection of the damper.	Replace damper.
The gap between the spark plug electrodes is not normal	Check the gaps with a feeler gauge.	Set the required gap by bending the side electrode, or replace the spark plugs (see which spark plugs to choose).
Heavy carbon deposits on spark plugs	Visual inspection.	Clean the spark plugs. Identify and eliminate the cause of soot formation. If necessary, replace the spark plugs (see which spark plugs to choose).
Non-functional spark plugs.	Candles are checked on a special stand.	Replace the spark plugs (see which spark plugs to choose).
There is no gasoline in the fuel tank	The fuel level indicator shows an empty tank. Determine the presence of gasoline by removing the fuel pump.	Pour gasoline into the tank.
The fuel filter is clogged, the water in the engine power system is frozen, the fuel line is pinched, or the fuel pump is faulty	The starter cranks the crankshaft, but exhaust pipe Doesn't smell like gasoline. (Carburetor) There is no gasoline in the float chamber of the carburetor - when you press the gas pedal there is no jet of fuel from the accelerator pump nozzle. (Injector) The presence of gasoline (under pressure) in the fuel rail can be checked by briefly pressing the spool of the fitting at the end of the rail (see about pressure in the fuel system).	Warm up the car and blow out the power system (with a tire pump). Replace the fuel pump, hoses and tubes.
The fuel pump does not create the required pressure in the fuel system	Check the pressure at the outlet of the fuel pump (see about pressure in the fuel system). Check the fuel pump filter.	Clean the fuel pump filter. Replace the fuel filter (see which filter to choose) and the fuel pump, which does not provide the required pressure.
Poor contact in the fuel pump power circuit or its relay is faulty	Checked with an ohmmeter. Check the "mass".	Clean the contacts, crimp the terminals, replace the relay (see mounting block) and wires.
Faulty injectors or their circuits	Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter for open circuits and short circuits. The ECU is diagnosed at a service station.	Replace the faulty ECU (see ECU interchangeability). Clean the injectors or replace them with new ones (see which injectors to choose). Ensure contact in electrical circuits.
Inoperative crankshaft position sensor (CPS) or its circuit	The "Check engine" lamp is on. Check the DPKV chain, the absence of damage to the sensor itself and the gap between it and the crankshaft damper ring gear (1±0.2 mm). Sensor resistance is 500–700 Ohms.
Inoperative coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH).	The "Check engine" lamp is on. If there is a break in the DTOZH or its circuit, the electric fan of the cooling system runs continuously. Check the DTOZH.	Restore contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor.
The throttle position sensor (TPS) or its circuit is faulty	The "Check engine" lamp is on. If there is a break in the circuit or sensor, the engine speed does not drop below 1500.	Clean the throttle assembly, restore contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor.
Inoperative mass air flow sensor (MAF)	Check the mass air flow sensor, or replace the sensor with a known good one.	Clean the mass air flow sensor, replace if necessary (see which mass air flow sensor to choose).
Inoperative knock sensor	If the wire is broken, the “Check engine” lamp lights up. There is no detonation in any mode. Loss of engine power.	Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor.
Inoperative oxygen sensor or circuit	"Check engine" light is on. The integrity of the heating coil is checked with an ohmmeter, output voltage– a voltmeter (the voltmeter should be connected without breaking the circuit, for example, by piercing the wires with thin needles).	Repair the oxygen sensor. Restore the wiring, clean the air leak hole. Replace the oxygen sensor.
Leakage of the exhaust system (area up to the oxygen sensor)	Visual inspection at medium engine speed.	Replace the exhaust manifold gasket, tighten the seals (see replacing the exhaust manifold).
The engine control unit (ECU) and its circuits are faulty	Check the 12V voltage at the ECU. Replace the unit with a known good one.	Replace the ECU (see ECU interchangeability), wiring.
Inoperative fuel pressure regulator (FPR)	Check the pressure in the fuel rail.	Replace the regulator (see which regulator to choose).
The clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted (8-valve engines)	Check with a set of feeler gauges.	Adjust valve clearances.
Loose or broken valve springs (8-valve engines)	Inspection, measurement of the length of springs in a free state and under load.	Replace weak or broken springs.
Wear of camshaft cams/shafts	Visual inspection.	Replace camshaft.
The valve timing is off	Check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft.	Establish the correct relative position of the shafts (according to the marks).
Low compression in the cylinders (wear or damage to valves, seats, wear, sticking or breakage of piston rings)	Check compression in cylinders.	Replace rings and pistons. Cylinder repair.
(Carburetor) Engine is not warmed up	According to the temperature indicator	Warm up the engine at medium speed to operating temperature.
(Carburetor) Insufficient fuel level in the carburetor float chamber	—	Adjust the fuel level.
(Carburetor) Defective or not adjusted starting device carburetor or its drive	—	Adjust the starter or replace it.
(Carburetor) Excessive fuel level in carburetor float chamber	There is a strong smell of gasoline from the exhaust pipe; a cold engine starts better than a hot one. Remove the top cover of the carburetor and check the integrity of the floats, their ease of movement and the absence of touching the walls of the float chamber. To check the tightness of the needle valve, turn the carburetor cover with the floats up and pump up gasoline using the fuel pump lever. Gasoline leakage from under the needle or valve base is unacceptable.	Replace the needle valve. Adjust the fuel level in the float chamber.
(Carburetor) Over-rich mixture due to gasoline leaking into the engine crankcase through a torn fuel pump diaphragm	The oil on the dipstick smells like gasoline. The low oil pressure light is on idle speed engine.	Replace the fuel pump or diaphragm. Change the oil if it contains a lot of gasoline.
(Carburetor) The carburetor jets and passages are clogged. The jets and solenoid valve are not tightly wrapped	Inspect and blow out the channels and jets.	Wash with gasoline or acetone and blow out the jets. If they are heavily soiled, clean them with a fishing line or a soft wood needle.
Incomplete opening of the throttle valve/flaps	Inspection with the engine stopped.	Adjust the throttle valve drive.
(Carburetor) Accelerator pump or nozzle not working, carburetor fuel passages clogged	Check the pump supply and make sure there is no leakage of gasoline from under the diaphragm. Make sure that the accelerator pump lever moves freely.	Replace damaged parts, tighten threaded connections, and blow out valves.
(Carburetor) Incorrect ignition timing	—	Adjust the ignition timing.
(Carburetor) Wear, damage to the contact carbon in the ignition distributor cap. The coal spring has weakened	Visual inspection.	Replace the distributor cap or the angle with the spring.
(Carburetor) The resistor in the ignition distributor rotor has burned out	Checked with an ohmmeter (1 kOhm).	Replace resistor or rotor.
(Carburetor) Commutator faulty	Testing is carried out by installing a known-good switch.	Replace the switch.
(Carburetor) Weakening or breakage of the springs of the weights of the centrifugal automatic ignition distributor, the damper rings of the weights are lost, the weights are stuck	Visually and at a special stand.	Replace the ignition distributor.
(Carburetor) Fuzzy operation of the vacuum ignition timing regulator; when the vacuum is removed, the plate does not return to initial position, large play in the bearing	Determined by visual inspection. The characteristics of the vacuum regulator are measured on a special stand.	Eliminate the jam, replace the faulty vacuum regulator or ignition distributor.
(Carburetor) The fuel pump does not create the required pressure in the system	—	Replace the fuel pump or its diaphragms.

Still haven't found the answer to your question and are still experiencing engine problems? Use the special section on the forum (the engine jerks/jerks and the engine pulls poorly).

Why doesn't the engine rev up? List of reasons and sequence of actions

Unstable engine operation makes you want to identify the reasons why the engine does not gain speed or does not develop sufficient traction, and what is causing the breakdown. Imagine, you press the gas pedal, but the engine simply “refuses” to obey the command, and the speed does not increase. Or the engine picks up speed up to a certain point, and then it’s as if something is holding it back, but the power does not develop. The task of diagnosing this phenomenon is quite complex, which can be caused by many factors.

Why doesn’t the engine pick up speed, or picks up speed poorly, or doesn’t pull.

One of the common reasons that the engine cannot gain speed and develop sufficient power is a malfunction of the fuel system. For all types of engines, regardless of the type of fuel, the fuel system must be checked for operability first, and especially the technical condition of the fuel pump. It is a faulty fuel pump that causes the engine to “starve”, hence its very sluggish operation. Concerning diesel engines, then first of all you need to check the injectors and plunger pairs of the fuel pump, the malfunction of which leads to the engine losing its power and often refusing to start. Problems with the electrical part The reasons why the engine does not pick up speed may also lie in various defects in the fuel system , which lead to air being sucked in through depressurized areas (broken hoses, leaky washers), which has an extremely detrimental effect on the operation of the fuel system. It is also worth checking the fuel system filters, since dirty and clogged filter elements lead to the engine not developing power.
On injection engines, it is necessary to determine how the timing marks are set, since the timing of ignition and injection depends on this fuel mixture. You also need to check the tension of the timing belt, as well as the correctness of its installation, since its incorrect fit and installation of teeth can also affect the development of power of the car engine itself. After checking the fuel system, comes the engine ignition system. The first step is to check the condition of the spark plugs, especially their tips. Pay attention to the spark plug insulators: if they have longitudinal brown deposits on them, they must be replaced immediately. If the tips are carbon deposited, it must be removed and cleaned. For this purpose, you can use coarse sandpaper. Now you need to carefully examine the condition of the distributor and high-voltage wires. Then it will be necessary to measure the wires so that one of them does not have too much resistance, or that there is no break in it. A block with ballast resistances can fail and can also cause the problem in question. To find it, lift the hood and you can easily see a ribbed block under the windshield. This is ballast resistance.
Other reasons Another reason why the engine does not develop power is air being sucked into the cylinders; on the way after the mass air flow sensor there is an air flow sensor. The fact is that the mass air flow sensor supplies information to the machine’s computer about how much air has entered the cylinders, and it, in turn, calculates the composition of the fuel mixture. And since the information is unreliable due to excess air, the mixture turns out to be lean, which leads to reduced engine thrust. Replacing a clogged air filter, which must be changed every six months, will also help solve this problem. The fact is that due to dirt in the filter, the supply of air masses becomes difficult, as a result of which the engine barely picks up speed and develops very little power. It would be a good idea to look at the color of the exhaust gases: if they are black, the operation of the check valve may be impaired. One of the possible reasons for engine failure and the inability of it to develop the required power may be a simple breakdown of the car’s computer. If this is the case, then try unscrewing the injectors; you will see a large amount of gasoline pouring out of the injector. In this case, such a breakdown can only be eliminated by replacing on-board computer.
Considering the reasons why the engine does not pick up speed, let's pay attention to another important aspect - the operation of the catalyst, which often gets clogged. To check it, unscrew the spark plug, then start the engine and make several sharp presses on the gas pedal. If there is a sharp increase in power and the engine picks up speed very quickly, then the problem lies there. In this case, it will need to be replaced.

If the VAZ 2110 engine does not gain momentum, there may be several reasons.

1. Fuel system malfunction.
2. Faulty ignition.
3. Air supply is obstructed.
4. Exhaust problems.

This series of problems is typical for any car, so if the VAZ 2109 injection engine does not gain momentum, the reasons may be the same.

Problems in the fuel system are typical for gasoline engines and are the most common. In addition, this problem is also inherent in diesel engines.

Where to begin?

When you first have problems accelerating a car, you should start checking the car with the fuel system. Most frequent breakdown The fuel system of the car is a fuel pump, and there is no difference whether it is mechanical or electric. Both the first and the second are equally likely to fail at the most inopportune moment.

Difficulties with the pump may appear after a while. The car can slowly reduce its speed characteristics, and when this process reaches a noticeable state, you will understand why the engine does not gain speed.

The problem is the fuel pump, which, although it has not yet failed, is no longer actively supplying fuel to the engine. This inevitably leads to fuel starvation of the car, and, as a result, loss of power.

Procedure.

1. You should start checking the ignition with the timing marks. It is the correctness of their installation that determines how timely fuel injection and spark supply will be.
2. If the marks are in order, you should pay attention to the numerous sensors, which are plenty for an injection engine. You can check the crankshaft position sensors, camshaft position sensors and others yourself or entrust the car to a specialist.
3. If everything is fine here, it’s worth paying attention to when the timing belt or chain was changed. The reason why your VAZ does not gain speed may be due to incorrect installation of the belt. Here it is enough to make a mistake by one tooth, and you can safely forget about normal acceleration of the car.

The 406 engine may not gain speed due to the fault of the injector, and the problem will be divided into two:

• the car won't start at all;
• the car does not work properly (this includes problems with speed, both while driving and idling, as well as all kinds of jerking of the car).

In the first case, the “nine” is often helped by warming up the battery or even recharging it. As you might guess, this situation occurs in winter during frosts. The reason lies in the decrease in battery capacity, which may simply not be enough to start the engine.

The second way to revive a frozen car is to supply hot air through a hair dryer. This “folk” method also helps many.

And finally, the third reason why a car may not start is faulty spark plugs.

Methods for diagnosing the problem

For the most accurate diagnosis, you will need to use a diagnostic tester, a fuel rail pressure gauge, a vacuum gauge and a spark gap.

1. The first thing to check is whether the engine is controlled by the ECU. To do this, simply turn on the ignition and listen to whether the fuel pump makes noise.
2. Then we look at the fuel line pressure. Data at the level of 2.5 - 3.0 kg/cubic centimeter are considered the norm.
3. If these parameters are normal, you can check the BITSTOP parameter using the diagnostic tools while cranking the crankshaft. The BITSTOP parameter must be set to "no". This indicates that the ECU receives a command to start forming a spark on the spark plugs and is fully operational.
4. By connecting a high-voltage spark gap, you can check whether there is a spark at all, and perhaps the cause is poor-quality spark plugs.

Also find out about.

Air supply

The air supply can also cause poor vehicle traction. If more air enters than it should, the composition of the fuel mixture will be disrupted. Those. there will be more air and less fuel, which will lead to a drop in thrust.

The simplest solution is to replace the air filter, which is recommended to be done every six months.

If the engine speed increases, but the speed does not gain, the reasons may be:

• low pressure in the fuel system (as mentioned earlier);
• problems in the operation of the mass air flow sensor;
• air filter clogged;
• coked nozzle.

It is more difficult to understand the operation of the mass flow sensor, since each car must have its own parameters, and you will still need the appropriate equipment. Even a deviation from the norm of 3 kg/hour can cause significant “changes” in engine operation, and not for the better.


Using the 406 engine as an example, we can say that the norm is 13 - 15 kg/hour. At the same time, reducing the flow to 11 kg/hour will lead to such a problem that the engine does not gain speed or does so slowly, while increasing this figure to 19 kg/hour will significantly increase fuel consumption, and this is also unpleasant.

Coking of injectors is most often caused by low quality fuel, since problems with the “electrical” part arise extremely rarely. To check, they often turn off the injectors one by one, while monitoring the drop in engine power. The norm is approximately 110 revolutions.

However, such diagnostics are labor-intensive and will not give a 100% result, so all owners of injection systems, including 3sfe, are not recommended to clean their injectors every year. Who knows, maybe your 3sfe engine does not gain momentum for this very reason?

Various jerks and dips during engine operation are another side of the TPS or mass air flow sensor malfunction. In this case, it is also difficult to diagnose TPS problems, and in addition to the equipment, you will need to clearly know at what crankshaft speeds failures occur, such as jerks or power failures.

Car exhaust problems

Before you start considering this issue, it is worth checking your car's catalyst. If it is still there, you should make sure it is not clogged. Even with the car’s impressive characteristics, trying to “squeeze” an acceptable speed out of it at high engine speeds will simply not be successful. Here lies the answer to the question, why install mufflers of larger diameter on cars? Precisely to increase power, since the absence of a muffler can add up to 15% power to a car.

This drawback is also relevant for diesel engines, so if diesel engine does not pick up high speeds, perhaps excess oil got into the exhaust manifold for a long time, which also burned out, forming carbon deposits on the walls, and this is already serious. The smaller the hole in the exhaust manifold, the less the engine is capable of.

The engine in a car is the most important part, which is why you should choose a new car based on the reliability of the heart of the car. Let's consider a small rating of the most reliable engines in different price ranges, allowing not only domestic, but also foreign production.

1. Small class, or B+. There is a fairly large segment of the market where our Lada Granta is represented, but it did not reach the top of the reliability rating, losing to the K7M engine from Renault. Second and third places, perhaps, should be given to the VAZ-21116 and Renault K4M engines.
2. Middle class, or C class. Our old friend K4M from Renault is in the lead here. Second place is deservedly occupied by engines from Korean manufacturers such as Hyundai and KIA. In third place it would be appropriate to place the engine from Renault and Nissan - M4R.
3. In business class, we will highlight the first two seats: for the “junior” business class and the “senior” one. In the first case, it is a 2AR-FE engine from Toyota, and in the second, it is a Lexus 2GR-FE engine.

Now find out about.