The better to lubricate the Kotovsky bicycle chain. What is the best way to lubricate a bicycle chain? Can grease, engine oil and lithol be used as a lubricant

A bicycle chain drive is a rather complex and responsible device, which largely determines the efficiency and ease of use of a bicycle bike. The bicycle chain included in it is a rather complex mechanism, consisting of side plates, rollers (bushings), axles and locking and transitional joints, which works in rather difficult conditions. It requires constant care and proper periodic maintenance, so deciding how and how best to lubricate a bicycle chain is of no small importance. One of the cycling aces said that two drops of oil significantly reduced the force with which his feet pressed on the pedals.

While driving, road dust gets on the bushings or rollers, which leads to intense abrasive wear of the teeth of the sprockets of the chain drive. This leads to an increase in its noise and a decrease in efficiency - the cyclist has to expend more muscle energy to set his vehicle in motion. In order to properly wash, clean and lubricate the chain, you need to know the general rules of care and have information about the applicability of various lubricants in various operating conditions.

Bicycle chain service

Any cyclist, from novice to seasoned cycling ace, is absolutely certain that poor quality chainring maintenance increases pedaling effort and causes increased wear, shortening its life and leading to more frequent replacements. Given the cost of imported samples, the issue of chain durability is by no means prosaic. Of course, the owners of bikes bought for commuting, shopping or evening bike rides, who operate their iron two-wheeled horse on asphalt, have less time to worry about the timely care of the chain drive, but fans of cycling and extreme driving on Russian off-road devote a decent amount of time to cleaning and lubricating the chain .

It is necessary to make it a rule that should be strictly observed - the chain should be cleaned after each trip in rainy weather or after a long trip. The dust and dirt that has accumulated on its links will cause corrosion, and rust will appear on the links of ordinary, cheap chains in a few days.

For washing and cleaning in sporting goods and household chemical stores, you can purchase specialized cleaning and washing compounds (aerosol "WD40"). However, this product (considering its cost) should be used at high levels of contamination, to remove old dirt or to eliminate emerging dirt. And in other cases, white spirit or kerosene is quite suitable. Gasoline and acetone, due to their high volatility, should not be used. Some cyclists use solutions of washing powders and dish cleaners to wash the chain - up to the much advertised "Fairy". This is a perfectly acceptable option, however, immediately after cleaning with aqueous solutions of detergent powders, the chain must be dried and lubricated.

To wash the chain links, a toothbrush or a special brush for cleaning the bike chain, a foam rubber sponge or a special Cyclotech machine (Sportmaster - Russia) is used, the cost of which does not exceed a thousand rubles. However, using it when cleaning the links with mineral spirits can corrode the plastic cleaning wheels.

Any cyclist has faced the problem of sticking to the chain of dirt while overcoming puddles or traveling on dirt roads. An ordinary plastic water bottle with a hole pierced in it will help clean the transmission of dirt. Moreover, the cleaning of the chain should be carried out immediately after the end of off-road travel - when leaving the asphalt, and the final, finishing technical. care to leave until the arrival home.

Types of bicycle lubricants

Bicycle lubricant has two mutually exclusive requirements:

• in order to penetrate through the smallest gaps between the bushing (roller) and the axle, it must have high fluidity;
• the density of the lubricant should exclude its self-flow from the gaps between the rubbing pair in the hinge.

In addition, it must have protective, anti-corrosion properties and be inert to the metal from which the individual parts of the chain are made.

Currently, in sporting goods stores selling velobike consumables, you can find three types of bicycle chain lubricant:

• compositions for the operation of a chain transmission in conditions of high humidity;
• lubricants for dry weather and operation in dusty conditions;
• innovative wax lubricants with wide versatility.

moisture resistant

Moisture-resistant lubricants - "Daytona" and "Nanoprotech" (Russia) or "Shimano Wet Lube" (Netherlands) are resistant to contact with the aquatic environment and are successfully used in the off-season and rainy weather. They are indispensable for cycling when the bike moves on dewy grass or the cyclist overcomes shallow rivers and streams on it. The frequency of its application is 50.0 kilometers. In addition to their lubricating properties, these moisture-resistant lubricants provide a protective effect against various chemicals, such as snowmelt accelerators.

The disadvantages include high viscosity, which contributes to the sticking and coking of dust in dry weather. To remove these lubricants, special washes or a high cleaning effort are required.

For dry weather

Dry weather lubricants are sold under the same brands as moisture resistant formulations and have a liquid consistency and are often available in aerosol cans. They penetrate inside the hinges without remaining on the surface of the chain plates and bushings (rollers) and dust adherence to the chain is minimal. A prerequisite for their use is that they are applied to the chain drive a few hours before departure, which allows them to dry on the outer surfaces of the chain in contact with the environment. However, when exposed to rain, these compounds are instantly washed out, which requires their renewal after each trip.

Wax based

Innovative lubricants based on wax - "Squirt" (Russia), "Star" (Italy), "Pedro's" (USA) or Teflon - "Weldtite" (Great Britain) or "Bikeid" (Sweden) form a protective layer on the surface of chain parts that protects rubbing parts from direct contact with negative environmental factors. They are dust- and water-repellent and offer wide versatility.

Most bicycle lubricants come in fairly easy-to-use packaging - liquid lubricants and cleaners - in aerosol cans, grease - in tubes with tips that allow you to get into the most "secluded" places of the chain drive.

During the movement of the chain through the stars, friction is created, which provokes its rapid wear, so it is necessary to clean and lubricate the chain regularly. Which lubricant to choose is up to the rider, depending on weather conditions and the duration of the trip. It is believed that in dry weather the chain should be lubricated once every 100 km, in rainy and muddy conditions - once every 50 km. But if you hear a creak or rustle, or it’s difficult for you to pedal, then you don’t have to wait, it’s better to smear right away!

Types of lubricants

1. For wet environments

This species remains on the chain after lubrication, so it is recommended for riding in wet and muddy conditions, for winter riding, and also in dry conditions where many water obstacles are expected to be overcome, such as fords.

• Advantages: does not wash out, so it does not need to be applied constantly (recommended every 50 km).
• Disadvantages: Since the lubricant remains on the chain, dust and small dirt particles easily adhere to it, which later act as an abrasive and increase the wear of the links. It is also much more difficult to clean the bike from such oil.

2. For dry environments

This type is applied to the chain, but does not remain on its outer surface, so dust and dirt do not stick to the lubricant, which means it is ideal for riding in dry weather.

• Pros: Not as sticky as for wet weather, so it repels dust rather than attracts it. The main thing is to remember that it should be applied a few hours before the trip so that it has time to dry.
• Disadvantages: it is quickly washed out, so it is recommended to apply it after each hit in a stream or in the rain.

3. Based on wax

Leaves a protective layer on the bike chain after application, only suitable for dry weather conditions.

• Pros: The wax lube repels dirt from the chain so it doesn't need to be cleaned as often. This is an ideal solution for those who are "obsessed" with cleanliness, and for those who are not going to get wet - after all, this lubricant can stay on the chain for several months, and after the "use by date" itself flies off in flakes.
• Disadvantages: In wet and muddy conditions it is not effective, so it needs to be applied more often than oil. Also, because of the main component - wax - it does not penetrate the links as well as oil lubricants.

The first and most important tip is that you should not lubricate the chain with anything that is not intended for a bicycle. This includes sunflower oil, used machine oil, and other cheap substitutes for normal bicycle lubricant. Even WD-40 is not designed to lubricate the chain, but only to clean it!

If possible, purchase biodegradable lubricants - this way you will help nature to quickly cope with chemicals washed down to the ground.

A lubricant based on PTFE, better known as Teflon, will help to noticeably ease the torsion of the pedals.
No matter what type of lubricant you choose, always apply it to a clean chain, otherwise dirt will get into the inner parts of the links along with the oil, which will accelerate the wear process.

How to apply chain lube?

There are two methods of application: aerosol and drip. Aerosol is convenient, but drip is correct. To understand this, you need to figure out exactly where to lubricate the chain:

• where the rivets rub against the inner plates (at the moment the links are bent relative to each other);
• where the inner and outer plates rub against each other;
• inside the roller so that it can easily turn around its axis.

It turns out that the lubricant must be applied to the internal parts of the chain, and not to the external ones. The drip method involves a long and slightly tedious process of dripping oil onto each link joint, and the aerosol can be sprayed in a couple of seconds.

But! During the application of aerosols, those parts of the bicycle that do not need to reduce friction at all - brake discs, rims, brake pads can get under the jet. This is fraught not only with excess dirt and dust adhering to the bike, but also with serious injuries at the time of brake failure.

A kind of compromise between drip and aerosol lubricant is a two-component lubricant - it is essentially a thick oil diluted in a solvent. It is applied quickly enough and easily penetrates into the links, leaving a thick oil layer after the solvent evaporates.

How to quickly and effectively clean and lubricate the chain, see here:

A famous cyclist once said that just a few drops of oil can dramatically increase pedaling efficiency. To his words, it remains only to add that the "drops of oil" should be selected in accordance with the conditions and distance of the trip, as well as depending on the speed of their application.

As a rule, avid cyclists take good care of their vehicle. Regular maintenance will prevent breakdowns and increase the life of this type of transport. Consider how to lubricate a bicycle chain, which is one of the main working elements.

Causes of chain wear

Most often, the chain deteriorates due to dirt sticking to it, from which it is almost impossible to protect yourself. After that, the surfaces of metal parts begin to rust. Damage is also caused by heavy loads on the chain and cassette mechanism.

Rapid wear may be due to the use of low-quality or unsuitable products. The effect will be the same if the lubricant is applied incorrectly. This includes using excessive amounts of lubricant or oil that seeps into areas where it shouldn't be there at all. Dirt, dust, small stones and sand very quickly adhere to the lubricant, which includes oil.

Incorrect gear shifting also often leads to wear of some parts. This is due to the fact that the links fall on the tooth with the side part, which causes increased friction. As a result, the contact parts are destroyed.

How to clean

Before applying new lubricant to the chain, it must be thoroughly cleaned. It is necessary to remove clots of the old spent product, dirt particles, small stuck stones. If the chain is not cleaned first, the new lubricant will become unusable very quickly.

As a rule, such cleaning does not require dismantling the chain. To do this, you can use a specially designed machine or improvised means. If the first option suits you better, you can purchase a cleaning device from a bike shop or online store. Often, such a machine is equipped with several stars with brushes, which are located in a split housing. Use the device according to the instructions. You need to put it on the chain and pour the cleaning agent. Then, when pedaling, the chain is cleared. The machine must be thoroughly washed after use so that it serves you in the future.

If the budget option appeals more, then prepare rags, 1 or 2 old toothbrushes, rubber gloves, all-purpose cleaner and water. You can also use thinner, kerosene or specially designed substances. This procedure is best done on the street so that you do not have to wash the floor in an apartment or garage for a long time. First, wipe the chain with a dry cloth, carefully cleaning each link between the rollers. Also don't skip the stars. Next, you will need a toothbrush. If you have 2 of them, connect them with bristles next to each other and fix with tape. Pass a chain between them and clean it well. While doing this, pedal backwards. To prevent dirt from spreading everywhere, cover the brush with a cloth while cleaning. At this stage, use a solution with detergent. Then wipe the parts with a dry cloth.

For thorough maintenance, the chain must be removed. Place it in a container of cleaning solution. Leave on for 30-60 minutes. Then wash the parts with a brush and cloth.

How and when to lubricate

The machined parts do not make any sounds. As the lubricant wears out, a quiet rustle appears, and then a pronounced crunch. Maintenance should be carried out in advance, and not wait for the appearance of such sounds. After all, when the parts are rubbed, rust forms very quickly.

Regardless of the duration of the last procedure, it is recommended to lubricate the chain in case of exposure to heavy rain. Especially if the bike has been under the downpour not for 15–20 minutes, but for the whole night. An intense jet of water for a long time washes away recent grease easily.

The tool must be applied to each link of the chain. Treat all individual rollers with a thin layer of lubricant. When using a liquid product, use a syringe or oiler. If you are spraying the chain, make sure all parts are sufficiently lubricated. Avoid contact with tires, rims and disc brake rotors. Mark the first link to which you applied the product. After completing the procedure, pedal back for about 2 more minutes to evenly distribute the substance. Then wipe off excess grease with a dry, clean cloth.

Lubricants

Consider further how to lubricate a bicycle chain. As a rule, you can buy the product in the form of an aerosol or liquid substance. Teflon grease is the most effective. It creates a thin layer on the surface of the part, to which dust does not adhere. The base material is Teflon, which has a low coefficient of friction. The agent is long-lasting and prevents wear of parts and rust. It is best to carry out the procedure every 200 km.

To reduce friction, it is recommended to use silicone grease. You can also apply wax. Although it lays down in a thicker layer, it wears off quickly enough. It is recommended to use it several times more often than Teflon.

Graphite agent prevents premature chain wear. It penetrates very easily into the details, so it is convenient to apply. Due to its properties, this lubricant effectively protects metal parts from friction and rust. As a rule, the composition must be applied every 400 km. In this case, it is better to avoid getting the bike in heavy rain.

Some bikes come with chain lube when you buy them. This service is provided by Shimano. The company's product has a binding effect, repels dust and prevents wear of parts. When applied, a water-repellent film is formed on the surface, which protects the chain from rust. The only drawback is that maintenance needs to be carried out quite often.

Nanoprotech grease provides maximum protection for parts in the Russian climate and road infrastructure. It protects the working parts of the bike from exposure to all kinds of reagents, including salt, which is sprinkled on the tracks in winter. Such an aerosol is easily applied and penetrates into the chain.

How can you not lubricate a bicycle chain at home? It is strictly forbidden to use grease, lithol or sunflower oil for this purpose. Such products have a thick consistency, which is why they cannot penetrate the parts. Therefore, the chain wears out very quickly, in addition, a lot of dust sticks to such substances.

Do not allow the chain to be in the most skewed position. It is formed when the chain is on the front and rear small or large sprockets. In this case, it is impossible to perform normal gear shifting. It also affects the rate of chain wear. Avoid overloading: do not engage the highest possible gear on a steep hill.

When choosing how to lubricate a bicycle chain at home, consider the method of application of the substance, the availability and effectiveness of further use. Regular maintenance will extend the life of your vehicle.

Drivetrain maintenance is what you most often need to do with your bike if you want it to last and look great. But there are important tricks here...

Cleanliness is the key to health! This expression is true not only for organisms, but also for a bicycle transmission. The nightmare of your bike is black (like night) cassette, chain and system, completely covered with "plasticine" from old grease, dust and poplar fluff ... Have you seen this?

In such a favorable environment, “steel biters” usually start up - evil microbes that quietly devour stars, chains and rollers ... :).

Most comparators also measure wear on the two rollers that will support the ends of the probe. When measuring with a ruler, it is difficult to maintain the latter with the required accuracy. Also, since the measurement can vary depending on how tight the chain is, it's best to keep the latter on the bike.

• However, only rivet wear causes elongation, which is desirable to evaluate.
• Then it cannot be measured along its entire length.

Wear is uneven throughout the chain, so it is preferable to take several measurements at different locations.

A well-maintained transmission should look "brilliant".

Transmission Care

This is the most important and frequent thing you will do with your bike. Ideally, after every 100 km of driving in dry weather, give the transmission 3-5 minutes of time for cleaning, and lubricate it only when you hear the rustle of a dry chain when driving.

Chain lubrication is one of the most important steps in bike care. Not only the quality of the transmission, but also the durability of the chain and stars on your bike directly depends on the oil (grease) used. That is why today I will tell you how and with what you need to lubricate the chain, and with what you cannot lubricate it.

The most unfortunate part is that no one agrees with the consequences of this measure: if most indicators estimate that with an elongation of 0.5%, the chain should be replaced by some mechanics at a rate of 0.3%, 0.7%, 0.8% or even 1.5% and also makes a big difference when it comes to rating sprocket wear.

How to choose the right lubricant?

There are other methods that are much less accurate, but that allow you to quickly assess wear without the need for a measuring device. When the chain pitch is stretched it no longer matches the gear ideal, and the rollers will no longer be at the bottom of the grooves that separate each tooth and then be higher in height relative to the teeth of the crowns. Then they grind them up and shape them into a shark wing characteristic, admitting it's urgent to change the chain. In this case, of course, it will also take.

How is bicycle chain lubricant different from other oils? The bike chain is in motion, its rollers are constantly rubbing against the stars, as well as the rollers of the rear derailleur. Friction of the rollers of the star chain (external friction) - does not lead to "stretching" (increase in length) of the chain. The most intense friction occurs just inside the chain itself. Each link consists of four elements (2 plates, a pin and a roller). There are about 110 such links in the chain.

Should the whole gear change when changing the chain?

This offset also negatively affects transmission efficiency and can, even when wear is severe, cause chain jumps. When replacing gears or trays, it is highly recommended to also replace the chain. Should you also change sprockets and chainrings when you change the chain? Some mechanics use charts, such as "when the chain has been changed 4 times, the gables and plates have been changed twice" or "if the chain has been changed 10 times, then change sprockets three times and after the plates". But others say that with a periodic chain, it is necessary to systematically change the sprockets or even the plates, because the wear of the chain goes on. No, because it is not enough to replace them: a new chain is much cheaper than a cassette or a pedal.

The new chain precisely fits with its rollers into the teeth of the new cassette. To understand where lubrication is most needed in a chain, you need to understand What that's where it wears out. Please note that the pins are tightly planted in the holes of the outer plates, which means there is no friction between them. There is friction between the inner link plates and the pins. It is here that the pin is developed, the inner plates rub the grooves in it, which leads to an elongation of the chain (they say: “the chain has stretched”). As a result, the rollers no longer fall so accurately into the teeth of the stars, and wear them out. The rollers of the rear derailleur, which are usually made of plastic, also suffer. In addition, the clarity of gear shifting decreases, noise, clicks, chain slips and other undesirable phenomena occur. Thus, the most unwanted wear of the chain does not occur on the outside, but inside her.

Likewise, when sprockets are too boring, the chain can jump around. The two phenomena are quite similar: they are more likely to occur on a small sprocket or small pan when force is exerted on the pedals uphill at the moment of changing speed, or when the gear is especially dirty. There is only one remedy: the gears must be changed as soon as possible. But what you need to know is that when the chain is new, these problems will get worse, so it's possible that these seeds only occur when the chain is renewed.

In addition, the way the teeth are used makes diagnosis particularly difficult. First, wear begins by digging grooves between each tooth. Unfortunately, this erosion is not noticeable at first, and then over time the teeth look like waves, shark fins, but at this point it is too late: the crown is too worn!

The task of any chain lubricant is to penetrate inside and stay there for as long as possible: do not dry out, do not wash out with water, do not splash when the chain moves. But on the outside, lubrication does more harm than good, because. coupled with dust, it turns into an abrasive paste that does its job perfectly.

The chain must be kept dry on the outside and lubricated on the inside.

As a result, after installing a new chain, for competition, sports or dangerous practice, and if gables or trays start to date, it may be wise to change them. If wear is particularly noticeable, the question no longer arises: replacement is necessary. In other cases, it's best to try the transmission on a difficult course, preferably on a climb, and only change gables or trays if chain sucking or chain jumps occur.

In order to open the chain, you must partially cut off the axis of the chain connection using a chain pick. Be careful not to chase it all the way so it can be put back in place later, it needs to be glued onto the plate. If the chain has a special quick release link, it can be easily removed without chain drives. Most Dutch bike chains have fast links, as do the latest racing bike chains.

After you have applied liquid (!) Lubrication to each roller, you need to wipe the chain dry with a soft cloth. When riding, part of the lubricant still flows out and accumulates dust, so the chain, stars and rollers must be cleaned with a brush with a medium-length hard bristle. It is best to use special convenient brushes for this, which can clean hard-to-reach places, such as derailleur rollers and the gap between stars.

With regular cleaning, your transmission will not only look great, it will run great and last much longer.

To close the circuit, the chain dropper is used in the same way to replace the axle of the chain connection or to replace the quick connector. Length adjustment is explained in the chapter. The chain must be properly tensioned to minimize wear on the entire gearbox.

To adjust the tension on a single-seat bike, pull the wheel back to tension the chain before attaching it to the frame legs. The operation is quite delicate, as it must be ensured at the same time that the wheel remains centered and keeps the chain under tension by tightening the axle nuts. If the wheel is equipped with a hub brake, the reverse lever must first be loosened. To check chain tension.

The brushes alone won't be enough to clean up a black rundown transmission, so you'll need a special chain cleaner. It is also called a "degreaser" (grease remover, from the word de-greaser). This composition washes well stubborn grease with dirt. At worst, WD-40 will help out, but special cleaners work better.

What is the best way to lubricate a bicycle chain?

If the chain is not tight enough, it can slow down when the chain is pulled from the side, about halfway between the gear and the chain. It is also possible to tension the link at platform level, as if the chain wear had been checked on a bike equipped with a derailleur. If the chain is too tight, the pedals will become fatiguing and this will cause a rather noisy crackle. There are other solutions for adjusting chain tension.

How to care for a bicycle chain

When cycling, the chain is always weaker in its lower part than in its upper segment, where it is pulled by the pedals. When the slack is too high, the chain may remain stationary for some time at the bottom of the chain. This phenomenon, more commonly known as chain sucking, usually indicates excessive wear on the tray teeth and can also be caused by excessive friction or a damaged component. especially when it's a certain gear: on recumbent or loaded bikes when the distance between the crankshaft axles and the rear wheel is too big, or on giant bikes when the pedal chain is too tilted.

If a lot of sand or dirt got into the chain (for example, after a serious "mud-kneading"), then the brushes help little: the chain should wash. For this purpose, it is better not to think of a special chain washer. It allows you to gently wash the bike chain even in the apartment.

What to do with the new chain.

A new chain is lubricated when the links are assembled at the factory with a thick but very sticky lubricant. It is enough for 300-400 km of driving, after which it will be difficult to put grease in the rollers.

Before the first ride, wipe off the tacky grease from the new chain with a soft cloth lightly dampened with solvent. Do not wash out the factory grease from the inside!

Then, in order to solve the problem, it is necessary to add a tensioner, for example, one roller. After adjusting the chain or laying the chain with the chain clamp, there may be a tight spot between two chain links. This causes noise, especially when the chain passes through the rear derailleur, and it also causes jumps in high speed gears.

To remove it, you need to determine the location of this difficult point, and then restore the game to the level of the rivet. To do this, put a drop of oil on the rivet, then hold the chain with your thumbs on either side of the hard point and twist the chain from the side, alternating in both directions and also in the length direction. See if the hard point has disappeared, otherwise twist the line.

If you don't wipe down the new chain, the factory sticky grease will turn your transmission into black iron very quickly. By the way, for some reason, sellers do not talk about this, but this simple procedure will make it easier for you to maintain the transmission in a brilliant form (in every sense). Now let's look at lubricants for chains.

How not to lubricate the chain.

One of the most common mistakes is lubricating the chain with WD-40 spray and its analogues.

WD-40 is a high penetrating fluid designed primarily to loosen sour compounds and displace moisture. Yes, it contains a small amount of oil, but in essence WD-40 is "carbonated kerosene", not a lubricant. Vedashka, Anyway (Hado) and other analogues, however, are good to use to dissolve old grease if you want to clean the “running” transmission elements well. In this case, you need to generously spray the parts, laying a rag so that the composition does not get on the rest of the parts, and wait a bit. After that, clean with a brush, wipe dry and lubricate with a special liquid chain lubricant (see below).

Engine oil as a chain lubricant is already better, but so far it’s “four”. As the name suggests, this oil must operate in engines, in a closed environment at high temperatures. Its outstanding motor properties are not needed at all in bicycles. And vice versa, motor oil does not “promise” us at all to penetrate the rollers well, not to dry for a long time, not to be washed off and weakly attract dust. The same can be said about sewing machine oil, as well as transformer, motorcycle, olive, massage and aromatic ...)) With excellent bicycle oils, there is no point in dripping any other oil into the chain and thinking “what will happen”.

Bicycle maintenance often starts with the importance of properly lubricating your bike's chain. A small gesture that will go a long way in extending the life of many of your most important parts. First of all, this cannot be done with any product; It is important to take a lubricant designed for bicycle chains. Several specialized products are available to you; dry, wet, ceramic, etc. which one to choose? When applied, a dry lubricant is more fluid. Its less viscous formula brings in less dust than other formulas.

This is a comprehensive formula. It is much thicker and therefore better able to withstand the weather. When it comes to branding, it's often a matter of taste. Its design is designed to penetrate the core of the chain, and the gutter shape makes it easy to apply while avoiding waste. Now that you have chosen your product, when should you apply it? To find out, tap your channel, she will tell you. Contrary to popular belief, it is not the outer part of the chain that needs to be lubricated, but rather the inside of the mesh. If you ride in muddy conditions, in the rain, in an area with a lot of dust, a little check is required.

Having bought a jar of excellent oil for bicycle chains for 100-200 UAH, you will present it to your grandchildren. Does it make sense to look for an alternative?

How to choose a lubricant for a bicycle chain.

In a bicycle transmission, only the chain needs to be lubricated, and in no case the stars. As mentioned above, the following qualities are important in bicycle chain lubricant:
It is good to penetrate rollers.
Stay there for a long time, do not dry out and do not flow out.
Attract as little dust as possible.
Resist being washed away by rain.

Oil for motorcycle chains, in principle, is also suitable for us, but it should also not splatter from the rollers when the chain rotates at high speed. Therefore, motorcycle oil is more expensive, and it has more packaging. Bicycle chain lubricants come in two main types.

Dirt, if left in the chain, can damage the rolling mechanism; dry sludge, dust, water, etc. this simple maintenance can save you a lot of trouble on your bike. It's important to make sure your chain isn't too dirty before applying lube; mud lubrication won't help you. Once your chain has been tested, wind it up by applying product through the rear sprockets. Make sure you have them everywhere. This is done, take a clean rag in your hand, close it on the chain and roll it up again.

Bicycle chain maintenance and proper lubrication

This step is to remove the excess, because remember that the interior must be oiled. If too much lube is left, the dust will adhere more easily and your chain will get dirtier a lot faster. The chain is a fundamental element in cycling. It is through this part of the bike that power is transmitted. It is by this mechanism of the bicycle that the losses in watts are most important. You need to maintain your chain optimally.

Lubricant for dry weather conditions (Dry). They are often made using Teflon and are designed for use in dry or not very wet conditions. It has a good dustproof effect due to the large amount of Teflon in the composition. Well protects the chain from short-term ingress of moisture. If you get caught in the rain, this smear will protect the chain from corrosion, however, once you get home, it is better to clean the transmission, wipe it dry, lubricate the chain and wipe it dry again. According to many mechanics, dry weather grease is an all-rounder and can be recommended as an "every day oil".

Maintaining Your Chain: The Golden Rule to Make Your Stuff Last

At the same time, a clean chain indicates less power loss, less noise and less wear. Also, if the operation is performed regularly, the lifetime of a full transfer can be multiplied by 3, or it must be known that the lack of service changes the chain. But also a cassette, rollers with a switch and trays. By regularly maintaining your channel, it does not take much time. It also provides a much longer life span for all of these components. In addition, this makes it possible to increase the fluidity during the passage of the gears.

Grease for wet and damp conditions (Wet). It is made on the basis of synthetic silicone oils, sometimes with the addition of paraffin. The lubricant protects the chain very well from direct and prolonged exposure to moisture. Due to the high content of silicone, it works great in wet and dirty conditions, but it is categorically not suitable for use in dry weather due to the high fat content of the composition. We recommend using this type of lubricant on rainy autumn days, in early spring, when participating in marathons in bad weather, and especially in winter.

Degreaser: A Useful and Reasonable Dose

The first thing to do to maintain your chain is to properly degrease it. There are special products for bicycle chains. They will not impair the mechanical properties of the chain and will not preserve the joints of this one. Also, there is no need to use too much product. This is a helping hand and the frequency of maintenance. In addition, the product must be able to act within a few minutes in order to obtain optimal effectiveness.

Worthy of special attention lubricants containing ceramics. According to the manufacturers, they create a ceramic layer of increased strength on the rubbing parts, which increases their service life.

Also interesting greases with thickeners. When the lubricant is applied to the roller, it is very fluid, after which the solvent evaporates from it, and it becomes thick. Thus, it stays inside longer. When lubricating, it is important to wipe the lubricant off the outside of the chain in time.

The main types of lubricant packaging are bottle with a tip and an aerosol can. Despite the seeming primitiveness of the bottle, I still recommend it. With it, I apply lubricant directly to each roller, and it takes up less space in my backpack. Aerosol can be taken for a workshop where you need to quickly lubricate more than one chain in a day. Due to spraying, a lot of lubricant is sprayed “by” and consumption increases. Also, out of habit, it is easy to stain the rims, spokes, frame, brake rotors with a spray.

For home use, it is better to choose a regular bottle of oil with a volume of 50-100 ml "with a spout".

Let's summarize.

Summing up, I advise you not to save on lubrication and choose a special oil for bicycle chains. It takes into account all the nuances of an open bicycle transmission. I recommend choosing a bottle with a spout. If you choose a spray, be sure to put a rag under the jet so that the lubricant does not get where it should not. You only need to lubricate the chain, and only inside the rollers, only when you start to hear the "dry" rustle of the chain while driving. Wipe the chain dry after lubrication. Clean the chain, stars, rollers with a brush, preventing the accumulation of dirt, sand, dust on them.

Happy travels!

There are so many types of chain lube on the market that there is a huge problem of choice. Each manufacturer insists that his product is better, and the seller tries to sell the most expensive product, talking about its merits. The focus of this article is on a bicycle chain, what it is, how it is applied correctly and how it differs from competitors.

Types of lubricating oils

There are several types of bicycle lubricant on the market, each of which stands out from its competitors with special properties.

1. Aerosol lubricants. Under high pressure, together with air, the lubricant enters the chain in the form of foam and, due to its state of aggregation, penetrates hard-to-reach components. After waiting 10-15 minutes, you need to dry the remnants of the substance with a dry rag. Such a bicycle chain lubricant is not only durable, but also the most effective, because a chain wiped dry will not attract dust to itself. There is only one inconvenience - it takes a lot of time to clean the chain of lubricant residues.
2. liquid oils. The most popular type of lubricant is sold with a special dispenser for ease of use. Liquid oils cost a penny on the market, but they are inferior to all competitors in terms of efficiency.
3. Two-component lubricants. A volatile solvent with thick oil is applied to the chain. Lubricant penetrates into hard-to-reach nodes, the solvent evaporates, and the oil thickens.

Popular Teflon

TF2 bicycle lubricant, which is available in the form of an aerosol and in oil cans, differs from its competitors in the best resistance to dirt and dust, because it contains Teflon. Before applying, it is necessary to completely wash the chain from dirt and dry well. This is the main requirement of the manufacturer, which guarantees the durability of operation. The lubricant is applied evenly to the chain and gently wiped off oil smudges. After 10-15 minutes, the chain must be wiped dry with a cloth. The Teflon component declared by the manufacturer in the composition of the lubricant should create an enveloping film over the entire surface, which will repel dust and dirt. After driving a couple of kilometers after cleaning, you will notice that the bicycle chain lubricant has again appeared on the surface in the form of droplets. This happens due to heating and pressure in the circuit during operation. Excess oil must be removed with a rag. With such effective lubrication for 150-200 kilometers in dry terrain, the chains are not afraid of dust or dirt.

Lubricant from the manufacturer of bicycle components

If there are components under the Shimano brand, then there must be accessories from a famous brand for maintenance and care. Naturally, their quality must match the brand. Shimano WET 100 bicycle lubricant is rightfully considered the best in the professional cycling segment. The grease is designed for wet weather, because it contains components with high binding properties. In addition, after lubrication, a water-repellent film forms on the surface of the chain, which can easily cope not only with moisture, but also with dirt. At a low price, this option contains components that prevent the formation of corrosion and rust, so many athletes, in addition to the chain, lubricate the rotating parts of the bicycle, trying to protect themselves from contamination. Such extensive functionality has only one drawback - fragility. At the end of the race, thoroughly rinse all lubricated components, wipe dry and re-lubricate.

The Russian brand will not give way

When wondering which bike chain lubricant is best, many Russian buyers argue among themselves, defending Japanese, German and American brands. Few people know that the Russian market has a lubricant for a bicycle chain of its own production. Unlike competitors, only it is able to work in the conditions that exist on the territory of Russia. Bicycle lubricant Nanoprotech has no analogues in the world, because it contains components that provide protection against aggressive environments, which include all kinds of reagents, including salt, sprinkled on the roads of the country in the winter. The manufacturer chose to release the product in the form of an aerosol, providing the user with a user-friendly service. There is a lot of information on the cylinder, which at first raises doubts about the veracity, but after a month of active operation in the winter, all questions to the manufacturer disappear. Professionals recommend Nanoprotech lubricant to all cyclists using all year round.

Into a sandstorm

Motorex bicycle chain lubricant is not multigrade. She has a slightly different mission. Biodegradable oil designed for use in conditions of maximum dustiness and low humidity. Race on the sands, careers, mountain slopes - this is her environment. In addition to the chain, the manufacturer recommends using the same lubricant on brake cables and derailleurs, as well as on moving components. Available in the form of an aerosol and in the form of an oil can. In our market, the Swiss manufacturer Motorex is better known for its shock absorber service products. Low cost and high quality quickly attracted its customers. However, Motorex-branded bicycle chain lube is inexplicably the most expensive niche and will be out of the reach of many bike owners.

After working in a bike shop for over a decade, I have seen many examples of cyclists maintaining their bikes. Based on this, I can safely say that there are two kinds of cyclists: those who overuse transmission lube and those who don't use any kind of chain oil (that's about 90% of all cyclists - there's also 10% who does it right).

Types of bicycle lubricant

The first step is choosing the right oil. There are two types of lubrication designed for bicycles: oils for wet conditions and oils for dry conditions.

There are also automotive oils and general purpose oils, and neither works well for bicycles. As an example, oils for general use WD-40. This light alcohol-based oil is designed to eliminate minor squeaks as well as lubricate parts that are not subject to heavy traffic. However, it is too light a bike chain oil and also leaves a waxy residue on the chain, causing the chain to wear more quickly.

Engine oil, on the other hand, is too thick and unable to penetrate all the small and inaccessible areas of the bike chain properly. In addition, engine oil is too sticky and collects a lot of dirt, which also leads to chain wear. So take my advice and use bike oils.

Oils for wet conditions

This oil is thick enough to stay on the chain and thin enough to get into all the little moving parts and will stay wet (feels like) while everything is cleaned or washed. This oil cleans, lubricates and protects the chain from corrosion.

The best place to use this type of lubricant is in conditions of high pollution or humidity, where there is not a lot of dust. Be careful, though, because there are some types of wet oils that work well for moving bike parts but are too thick to lubricate a bike chain.

An example of such thick oils is Phil Wood Tenaciou and lubricant Finish Line Cross Country. The downside of using wet engine oils is that they stay wet on the chain and pick up a lot of dirt and debris that stays on all the metal fragments and wears down the chain drive slowly as you ride. Since the chain collects more dirt, the drive will break down faster. Thus, it is really important to use wet engine oil only when conditions require it.

Some really good wet engine oils that can be recommended are Tri Flow and DuMonde Tech. I would recommend wet oils for cyclists who either don't lubricate their bike's chain often, or who ride in wet or muddy climates because it will stay on the chain longer.

Dry oils

Dry oil, on the other hand, is an alcohol-based lubricant that dries on the chain and leaves a waxy layer that protects and lubricates the chain. Most dry oils take about 3-4 hours to dry, so they should be used well in advance of your trip. The main advantage of dry lube is that it doesn't pick up a lot of dirt.

On the downside, dry machine oils soften quickly, especially in wet or muddy conditions. On top of that, some dry engine oils leave a coating on the chain that is extremely difficult to remove. It is recommended to use Pro Link and Boshield T9 for cyclists interested in dry lubricants. Both of these lubricants are excellent and do not leave any coating on the chain. The oil is perfect for mountain and road bikes. In dry conditions, this lube works great because it doesn't pick up all the dust and dirt on the chain and as long as there's no excess moisture, the lube stays intact.

Drip and spray lubrication

There are two ways you can apply lubricant. You can use both aerosol lube and drip lube. Both types are similar products, but for chain lubrication I recommend using drip lube instead of spray lube. Drip lubrication allows oil to penetrate each chain link more easily without lubricating other parts of the bike.

In aerosol lubricants, it is difficult to control the amount of oil sprayed and it is very easy for the spray to come into contact with other parts of the bike, such as the brakes or the rotor on the rear wheel.

Aerosol lubricants are useful for other objects, but I would recommend paying special attention to where you can use the spray.

Does the new chain need to be lubricated?

New chains come with lube already applied to them. Originally, this lubricant was more of a retardant or rust inhibitor than a lubricant, and manufacturers recommended removing it before installing the chain. Now it is not only a rust inhibitor, but also a really good lubricant and manufacturers recommend leaving lubricant on the chain. Sometimes a new chain has a slight excess of lube, you need to remove the excess lube so it won't pick up a lot of dirt on the chain, but be careful not to remove too much.

How to apply machine oil?

The best way to use chain lube is to put one drop of oil on each rivet/bush (metal cylinder in the middle of the chain) while you pedal backwards. It takes about 3.5 crank rotations to complete the entire chain. If the bike is on a stand, it's best to set everything in motion and let the oil get to all the nooks and crannies of the chain ( be careful: if you put too much oil on the chain, it will splatter all over the bike as it rides). After running through all the gears, use a rag to wipe off any excess grease. If you are using dry lube, leave the bike alone for a few hours while the oil dries completely.

How often to use lubricant?

The hardest question is how often should you lubricate the chain. Even at the expert level, this is not agreed upon. However, too much chain lubrication can cause chain damage just as much as too little chain lubrication. The best answer regarding the frequency of oil use is to lubricate the chain when needed. It may be a week for some riders, or 2-3 months for others. It depends on the conditions of the trip, the type of lubricant used and the number of trips made. If the chain makes creaking sounds, then be sure it's time to lubricate it.

For most cyclists, the chain should be lubricated once a month. However, if the chain is too dirty and black, it means that too much oil has been used and I would recommend using less in the future. If the chain is black, I would also suggest taking the bike to a shop to have the chain cleaned, this way you can remove all the grit and blackness from the chain and prolong the life and use of the drive.