Homemade tractor with your own hands: types, configurations, assembly instructions. How to make a homemade mini tractor Simple homemade mini tractor with your own hands

Everyone can make a mini tractor with their own hands, the main thing is to stock up on the necessary tools, materials and patience. As a result, a full-fledged multifunctional machine is obtained, which makes it possible to ensure the fulfillment of all the household needs of the owner. High cross-country ability, ease of use, versatility - these are the advantages that you get after installing a homemade tractor.

In agriculture, you cannot do without a tractor. However, this pleasure is expensive, so a self-made tractor with your own hands can be a worthy solution to this problem. This is not an easy task and requires the availability of tools, the necessary materials and knowledge, however, the result will also please.

How to make a mini tractor with your own hands: what is needed for this?

The most affordable option for a mini-tractor with your own hands is a tractor with a so-called broken frame. Such a frame consists of 2 parts, which are connected by a special mechanism based on hinges. All controls and chassis are located in the front of the machine. The steering is hydraulically based, and when the steering wheel is turned, the entire front section arches, resulting in a turn. This approach allows you to simplify the design and save on some details.

The rear part is simpler in design, it contains a workplace for the tractor driver, the rear axle and various devices for installing attachments that are used to process the soil.

The advantages of a homemade mini-tractor for the household:

1. With its small size and simple design, it is capable of producing results comparable to industrial technology.
2. It has excellent maneuverability, is able to make a U-turn on almost one piece of land, which is quite an important quality for tillage.
3. Low fuel consumption. Of course, fuel consumption depends on the design of the machine and the work performed, however, fuel consumption is usually minimal.
4. Low cost, incomparable with the purchased unit. The low cost is provided by the cheapness of components and parts, which can often be bought from hands or found at all.

Disadvantages of homemade tractors:

• the unit is made from old, sometimes obsolete parts, therefore it is recommended to regularly carry out maintenance of the machine (in any case, there is no guarantee that the old unit will not fail);
• when an old unit or part fails, it is not always possible to find a replacement, since in most cases such components have already been discontinued.

Before you start looking for parts and mechanisms, you need to think about the design of the machine and find drawings. You can come up with drawings yourself, but it is best to use the projects of folk craftsmen who already had experience in assembling such equipment. You can consult in advance with an experienced locksmith who will help to take into account and eliminate possible problems in advance and advise on how to assemble the tractor.

Required materials and tools

To work, you need the following tools:

• welding machine with a stock of electrodes;
• a cutting machine with a set of cutting and grinding discs, a hard brush for cleaning metal;
• wrenches, hammer and chisel;
• electric drill and drill set;
• equipment for painting;
• you may need a lathe to bore some parts.

Materials that will have to be found in order to assemble a mini tractor:

• metal channel for the frame;
• axle with wheels;
• nuts, bolts and washers of various sizes;
• driver's seat;
• engine, gearbox, transmission;
• materials for creating the hull, roof, wings;
• consumables for painting;
• grease for tractor units.

Search for the necessary spare parts and assembly of the structure

Before you start searching for all units and mechanisms, you should know that the gearbox, engine and chassis must be taken from the same tractor - this will avoid the complicated work of adjusting the units to each other.

What is the most preferable engine for a homemade tractor? Here the choice is small: it is recommended to find the UD-2 or UD-4 engine, the M-67 engine would be a good option, since it is quite economical and durable, and requires minimal participation in maintenance and repairs. Some folk craftsmen used engines from a Zhiguli car as a power unit. In this case, the engine with the gearbox and transmission is removed from the car, there is no need to adjust the mechanisms to each other, which greatly facilitates assembly.

Before installing such an engine, it should be upgraded. It does not have a cooling system; for this, you can use a fan that is installed on the crankshaft. It is also necessary to install a casing that will direct the flow of cold air.

If an engine from a car is used, it is necessary to reduce its speed by 3 times using the corresponding gears, since such a high speed is not needed for the tractor.

The choice of wheels depends on the purpose for which the homemade mini-tractor is intended. If the purpose of using the machine is to move various loads, then 16-inch wheels can be dispensed with. If the tractor is going to work in the field and work the soil, it is recommended to use larger diameter wheels - this will provide better traction. If you want to save money on wheels, you can also use car tires, but it should be borne in mind that in this case traction with the soil may be insufficient, and control may be difficult.

Frame, rear axle and exterior trim for mini tractor

The frame of the assembled mini-tractor consists of 2 parts, connected by a hinge mechanism. For the manufacture of such a mechanism, you can use a driveshaft from a large truck, for example, a GAZ. It is not so important which specific car model will be used: the cardan shaft does not have any special differences.

The rear axle is quite suitable from the old Volga or Moskvich car, but in this case they will have to be shortened, since the standard axle is not included in the dimensions of the mini-tractor.

The frame is made of a metal channel. This material has sufficient strength and rigidity for such a load. After mounting the frame, holes of various diameters are drilled on it in order to secure the main components and mechanisms.

The exterior can be made of any material: metal, plastic or fiberglass with epoxy resin. The structure must be well painted with at least 2 layers of paint for metal. This is necessary not only to give the tractor a good appearance, but also to protect its components from corrosion.

As you can see, homemade work pays for itself, and there are no special difficulties in making a small tractor for agricultural work (if you have the skills and tools).

Today we will talk about how to make a mini-tractor from a walk-behind tractor, a motor-cultivator or other units and improvised tools with our own hands at home. We will also consider technologies, diagrams and drawings of self-assembly of mini tractors with visual illustrations

Modernization of domestic motoblocks with their subsequent improvement to a small mini-tractor involves the manufacture and installation of an additional module (adapter) or, more simply, a driver's seat, a control unit with a steering gear and a hitch for attachments. As a result of such a simple modernization, a budget minitractor is obtained from a walk-behind tractor, capable of working with various attachments (plow, hiller, harrow, cargo cart, mower, snow blower, etc.), and which its owner has the ability to assemble and remodel with his own hands.

The landing and steering adapter trailer is suitable for running a small farm or for working on a summer cottage with an area of ​​about 2 hectares. The resulting agricultural vehicle is controlled using the steering column and clutch pedal. The modular trailer is quickly assembled and disassembled, conveniently and easily transported, taking up little space during storage. With a module price of about $ 700, you get a small mini tractor, which you can turn into a regular walk-behind tractor at any time.

A motor-block landing trailer provides an answer to a simple but capacious question that is often asked by happy owners of walk-behind tractors - how to make a mini-tractor from a walk-behind tractor yourself? This device is suitable for any Russian-made Russian-made motoblock. The method of hitching the steering module to the walk-behind tractor is carried out by a simple standard connection using three coupling bolts, as in the case of hitching with any attachment. With such a landing-trailed modular attachment, the mini tractor, obtained from a walk-behind tractor, can reach speeds of up to 40 km / h.

The adapter has a convenient control, which includes a forward lever, steering wheel, accelerator and reverse pedals. The hitch is made entirely of standard domestic-made spare parts. It can be bought complete with a walk-behind tractor, already assembled, or separately, as an attachment, which is easy to attach to the walk-behind tractor by yourself. Also, the manufacturer is ready for a certain cost to remake the landing and steering adapter for your walk-behind tractor, making mounts for attachments of any kind.

Such a mini tractor is controlled by turning the rear wheels. The minimum turning radius is 3.5 m, but due to the presence of reverse, this value is halved. Such a garden tractor from a walk-behind tractor, according to the manufacturer, has consistently positive reviews, it is very compact and maneuverable, which means it is effective in a small summer cottage. Any attachments can be installed on the rear part of the steering adapter, and the steering mechanism is convenient during the movement of the mini tractor, greatly simplifying its operation.

A mini-tractor was assembled from a walk-behind tractor or a motor-cultivator (hereinafter referred to as MT), mainly from serial components and assemblies of used equipment. All of them, of course, had to be sorted out, worn out parts had to be refurbished. Moreover, I tried not to radically alter the used serial components and assemblies. First, because if any of them fail, the replacement will not present any particular difficulties. Secondly, I was convinced that alterations, which some amateur designers willingly go for, sometimes threaten to reduce the strength and reliability of what is being altered.

Take, for example, the input shaft of a gearbox from a GAZ-51 car. Using a self-made mini tractor in KP-51 in the design, it is difficult to resist the temptation to shorten it. But after all, cutting off the shaft, they remove the most valuable thing - the splines. And now, to fix the sprocket, gear, etc. on the shaft, you have to drill a hole in it for a bolt or grind a groove for a key. Superfluous, in my opinion, work! In addition, the bolt is not a slot: under heavy load, it can simply shear off. And be self-made more prudent, do not shorten, take care of the shaft - no problems will arise. After all, a clutch disc with removed linings can be easily put on the splines, to which you can attach elementary any part: a flange, an asterisk, etc. In addition, there is enough space on the shaft to install additional power take-off devices for other units: a water pump, a mower, circular linden ...

The power unit also has no alterations or modifications, which is used as an almost trouble-free engine from a GAZ-69 car with a capacity of 55 hp. c, along with its gearbox (having three speeds forward and one reverse) and clutch. The torque from the KP-69, which in this case is the primary gearbox, is transmitted to the KP-51 directly, without "soft" connections, thanks to the flanges, fastened tightly with bolts. In a similar way, the KP-51 is also connected with the cardan flange mounted on the main gear drive gear. Distortions here, of course, are unacceptable.

Power and running gears are fastened "in place", making the final adjustment of the kinematics (so that there are no distortions anywhere). Then the whole structure is tested. Let the engine run idle for a while by lifting the rear wheels off the ground on the trestle. After making sure that everything is in order, they put the rest of the nodes and parts in their places. Actually, I am not a supporter of blind copying of someone's, even the most successful, development.

I am convinced that it is more rational to only be guided by the scheme chosen as a prototype, using in its design those details and capabilities that this home-made product has. Therefore, talking about the MT-7, I deliberately omit the description and specific dimensions of brackets, spacers and other "little things", the features of fastening certain parts and assemblies. Everyone, to the best of their strengths and abilities, will decide for themselves the questions that arise during the manufacture of a mini-tractor, including about replacing, say, a second, additional gearbox from a GAZ-SI car with a power take-off and NSh oil pump (which, for example, you have was not at hand) to similar ones taken from other equipment. Composing them into a single whole, one must just not forget: KP-51 has straight, small gear teeth; the other teeth and the step of their cutting are different. This means that the corresponding power take-offs are also needed.

The hydraulic pump is connected by petrol and oil-resistant armored standard frames with an oil distributor (of any type) and a hydraulic reservoir, a power cylinder for lifting attachments, a bulldozer shovel, and a trailer tipping mechanism.
The instrument panel is combined. The panel was taken from the KrAZ vehicle, the indicator devices were taken from other vehicles with 12-volt voltage.
On the right front fender of the MT-7, a rectangular hole is cut out in order to see the position of the wheel while controlling its progress during hilling.

The "highlight" in the design of the MT-7 is the transforming front axle. The use of this technical solution allows you to easily and quickly change the width of the mines of a mini-tractor, which becomes a really reliable mechanical assistant not only when plowing a field, a vegetable garden, performing other (usual for machines of this kind) operations; it is possible to perfectly cultivate husbandry, plant and huddle potatoes, other root crops, taking into account the recommendations of science and practice.
The idea I proposed is based on structural elements telescopically sliding into each other. In this case, the dimensions of the structure itself change significantly. For example, when hilling potatoes, the front wheels of the MT-7 move away from each other, and the track width becomes not 1080 mm, as usual, but 1400 mm. For beds cut every 700 mm, this is the best option.

And such a profitable innovation is achieved quite simply. Instead of a single transverse bumper, two channels are taken: 120X50 mm and 100X50 mm, fastened to each other with three Ml2 bolts. The length of the channels is 680 mm and 730 mm, respectively. When expanding the track, the bopts are unscrewed. The upper channel, easily sliding along the lower one, extends to the required distance (in this case 320 mm). Then both channels are bolted again.
Naturally, when extending the front axle, it is necessary to increase the length of the transverse link. The latter is made up of two pieces of steel corners, nested into each other and fastened together with three M8 bolts. When changing the mines, the bolts are unscrewed. Having spread the transverse rod to the required length, the corners are again bolted together.

The features of the execution of the rest of the nodes and elements of the front axle are clear from the illustrations. I will only note that from below, in the middle of a 120X50 mm channel cross-beam, a sleeve is welded, which is a piece of seamless steel pipe 30X5 mm (GOST 8734-75) with a length of 120 mm. An axle in the form of an M20 bolt is inserted into the bushing, passing through the holes in two transverse brackets (made of 50X50 mm angle), screwed to the mini-tractor frame symmetrically relative to the composite crossbeam. The latter balances on an axle-bolt, turning when driving on uneven ground at an angle limited on both sides by stops from a 45X45 mm corner. Brackets for a more rigid fixation are additionally reinforced with two braces connected to the frame of the mini-tractor.

The steering column is from the UAZ-452 car. My mechanical assistant has it on the right side. Therefore, the fastening of the steering gear with a steering gear to the MT-7 itself is not particularly difficult. As for the lever, it is removed from the slots and then, having turned, it is reinserted, but already in a vertical position.

So, when hilling, say, potatoes, the front left wheel moves out along with a channel 100X 50 mm and a corner 30X30 mm sideways by 320 mm. The front axle track becomes 1400 mm. The track on the rear axle also increases by an appropriate amount. But not due to the transformation of the latter, but by installing in place of the left rear wheel of another: a special one with a special design.

It is easy to see that this removable wheel, used only when working with an extended track, differs from the usual wheel with a welded hub. Located between the "main" and "annular" parts of the disc cut by autogenous, the latter, as it were, increases the length of the rear beam. And instead of the standard for the MT-7 track on the rear axle - 1000 mm - it turns out (taking into account the "automobile" way of fixing this wheel) 1400 mm.

Unlike the front wheels with 6.5-16 tires (from the Volga car), the MT-7 rear wheels have tires from the MTZ-52 tractor, the size of which (6.5-20) makes it easy to mount them on kopecks disks from the GAZ-51 car. The removable wheel is no exception here either.

But let's continue further:
Herringbone tread pattern. To increase the adhesion weight of a mini-tractor, it is possible to recommend screwing on removable loads or filling the chamber through a valve by about 2D volume with water (with the onset of low temperatures - a 25% aqueous solution of calcium chloride, freezing at minus 32 ° C). With an increase in soil moisture, when the mutual connection of its particles is violated, an increase in the traction force by the above method is not ensured. In these cases, it is advisable to reduce the tire pressure.
The rear axle from the GAZ-51 car is attractive to many amateur mini-equipment designers. Its reliability, availability, finally. But here's the length ...

On the ZM stockings, the heads of the rivets are cut off with a sharp chisel and, with the help of a punch, they are “sunk” inward, so that then with a sledgehammer, carefully knock the stockings out of the body. If necessary, sometimes it is necessary to warm up the seats with a blowtorch. And in order not to suffer later during assembly, achieving exact alignment of mutually mating parts with each other, - take care of the timely application of special marks on the stockings and differential case (with a chisel, until the component parts are separated).

The stockings are machined along the diameter of the seating surface to the spring cushion, after which the left cutter is shortened by 180 mm, and the right one - by 235 mm from the side of the differential. The trimmed stockings are inserted back into their seat sockets. And in order to secure them thoroughly, through the old holes in the differential, where the rivets knocked out were previously located, new ones are drilled in the chupas. Previous (or specially made with a diameter of 0.1 mm larger) rivets are driven into these holes and welded flush with electric welding. After assembling the entire bridge, it is installed on the mini-tractor. This ZM is attached to the frame with Ml2 bolts passing through the holes, prudently made in the right places. Dimension A is chosen so that the minimum track width on the rear axle is 1000 mm.
As for the axle shafts, they are drilled from the side of the flanges strictly in the center to a depth equal to the thickness of this flange itself. The drill diameter is slightly less than the semiaxis diameter. Next, the semiaxis is machined along the diameter of the drill to the appropriate length (see Fig., Size B). For the right semiaxis, this will be 235 mm. and for the left one - 180 mm. Each is inserted into its flange and is thoroughly welded on both sides (use electric welding, not autogenous!]. To prevent the metal from being "released", the half-shaft with the flange is periodically cooled with water.

I also bought a new battery for the power supply system. The air filter decided to leave the tractor. It is, of course, large and requires maintenance, but very effective. Now about the newly made frame. Although it is spatial, it is quite simple. It is based on two spars made of steel equal-flange angle No. 4 (40x40x4 mm).

But the corners are docked along the length by the edges of the shelves and welded into a square tube. The spars are made composite, since during their length it was necessary to both change the distance between them and raise the rear over the front. The front of the frame is narrower than the rear to allow the idler wheels to swing. In addition, it is bunk. This is due to the need to adjust the frame at the same time to dissimilar units - the Muscovite engine and Chinese transmission units, as well as to the suspension of the front axle beam.

In this case, the beam is suspended from the frame by means of an adapter plate, used from the same Chinese mini-tractor, but modified. Part of the slab was simply cut off as unnecessary, and new fastening holes were drilled in the ears of the remaining part. To prevent the beam from dangling on the central pivot and not knocking on the frame, thick rubber shock-absorbing pads were attached to the side members in these places.

Now the spacers were replaced by spar pipes and even solid rubber gaskets. There are few transverse elements in the frame - two traverses and an engine cross member. They are all in front of it. In the rear, the connecting link at the frame is the rear axle beam. The bumper can also be considered part of the frame, but it is made as a separate element and is attached to it with four M12 bolts. I made a new bumper - more massive and overall than the standard one, assuming in the future to hang a shovel bucket on it.

It should be noted that the holes in the frame for fastening components and assemblies were drilled mainly in place, after carefully verifying the position of the latter. The rear axle is completely "Chinese", but the wheels here had to be adapted from the tractor "Belarus", although the tires on them are standard too. A hitch for connecting tillage implements together with a one-share plow was included in the kit (or rather in the "under-kit") with a mini-tractor.

But since the engine installed a more powerful one, to increase productivity when plowing, I made another share similar to the first one and an additional unit for attaching it to the plow. And so that the car did not slip due to lack of mass with such efforts, heavy cast-iron discs were fixed to the wheels. Since from the very beginning, the mini-tractor was supposed to be used as a tractor of a cargo trailer from a car, I made a ball fork for coupling with it.
But in this unit, only a docking element is homemade, and the ball is of industrial production. The trailer (it is homemade) has an industrial-made coupling device. Technical requirements prohibit the use of handicrafts in devices of this type.

True, the forkop prevents free access to the power take-off shaft (PTO), but so far this mechanism has remained unused for me and is covered with a plastic cap. It should be noted that most of the controls: the steering mechanism, brake system, clutch were in order on the mini-tractor and I used them practically without alterations. Only due to the increased distance to the front axle, it was necessary to lengthen the longitudinal steering rod.

It is worth noting here that the steering of the tractor is quite simple and does not have a trapezoid. Swivel levers on the wheel trunnions are interconnected by a single transverse link. The hydraulic system lacked a pump and a fine oil filter.

These units came up without fitting and alterations from domestic tractors. This fact indirectly confirmed the version heard on the market that the tractor was designed in our country. There were no light signaling devices in the acquired units, and therefore they had to be acquired and reinstalled. The front headlights are from agricultural machinery, the cornering lights are from the Niva car, the rear signal lamp units are from the Volga GAZ-24.

The engine for this mini-tractor was used from the "Vyatka-150 M" scooter. Suitable also from "Tourist", no less popular among self-made people. Its power is 7 pp. As practice has shown, this is quite enough for a universal mini-car, the main purpose of which is the mechanization of various kinds of work on the school site, as well as clearing the area from snow and transporting goods on a (also homemade) trailer.
Reliable cooling of the engine is provided by forced airflow. The launch is carried out by a removable kickstarter like a car. A sleeve coupling is installed on the output shaft of the engine (connection Ev. 32X1, 5X20). At the other end, the clutch transmits torque (splined connection 8X32x38) to the not-so-scarce gearbox from the GAZ-69 car.

The gearbox output shaft is connected by a rigid cardan joint with the main gear of the rear axle. As the latter, a corresponding block from a decommissioned electric car was used. This block transmits torque (thanks to a four-way worm) with i = 12: 1 to the drive wheels. As a result, the entire structure has 12 gears: 3 of them - backward, and all the others - forward, which allows you to select the optimal engine operating mode in the projected speed range of the "Gnome": from 0.5 to 15 km h. To provide the tractor with sharp turns, as well as A band brake serves to hold it in parking lots, ascents and inclines.

Moreover, the design of this brake has much in common with similar devices that have found wide application in industrial agricultural machinery. And the peculiarity is that the steel tape used from the decommissioned Niva combine with friction linings riveted to it covers a home-made (St45) brake drum.

The diameter of its working surface is 200 mm, the width is 60 mm. When you press the brake pedal, the lever pulls the tape around the drum, braking the tractor. An adjusting device is provided to set the initial clearance between the brake drum and the belt. The frame of the mini-tractor is welded, rectangular.

Manufactured from sections of steel channel # 8. The crossbeams also serve as brackets for installing the engine, gearbox, and other equally important components of the tractor structure. On stepladders attached to it (not shown in the illustrations) and the rear axle from the already mentioned electric car. And in front, on welded gusset cheeks made of steel sheet (St45 15–20 mm thick), in which holes with a diameter of 30 mm are made (not shown in the figure), is the swing axis of the front axle.

The latter is homemade. Its construction is also welded. It is made of sections of thick-walled steel water and gas pipes of the corresponding diameter and in appearance resembles the front axle of the Belarus tractor. The vertical bushings are equipped with bronze sleeve bearings. The steering gear is used from a decommissioned Polish car "Zhuk", providing sufficient maneuverability, ease of control, much needed for a school mini-tractor.

The machine has the ability to turn around without any difficulties even on a "patch" with a radius of a little more than two meters. The front wheels of the mini tractor with hubs are taken from the used tractor rakes. Tire size 5.00X9 ". You can use other wheels. For example, from SZA motorized carriages with tires 5.00X10". The rear ones are from the driven wheels of the T-16 tractor, followed by cutting the tread. It is quite acceptable as driving and driven wheels from other equipment with tire sizes from 6.5X16 "to 9.00X16".

For example, from the SK-4 combine, the T 28, T-40 tractors. The fuel tank is homemade. You can also use a ready-made one - from the industrial smoke oven, having appropriately adapted it. The capacity is 6.7 liters, which allows the mini-tractor to work continuously without additional refueling (depending on the type of work being performed] for 3-4 hours.
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The cladding is made of 1.5 mm thick sheet steel. Covered with protective auto enamel in bright, eye-pleasing and technical aesthetically pleasing colors. Looks good, for example, a combination of yellow with orange or red. Especially if Polish enamel is used for protective painting. The seat was used from a decommissioned "Niva".
It can be adjusted according to all ergonomic parameters to ensure the driver's comfort in work. On the front, on the tractor frame, there is a counterweight made of two ballast blocks from DT-20 cut in half. The dimensions of each such half: 140x50x220 mm. Mounting - on M12 bolts, from the inside of the frame.
The design of the school mini-tractor is such that it practically excludes accidental contact with rotating and other parts that pose an increased danger during operation. Where necessary, additional covers and guardrails are provided. Among other design features, attention is drawn to the technical solution that allows manual and foot control of the chokes using a single cable.

So that the mini-tractor does not stand idle, you need to take care of a set of various mounted and trailed agricultural implements. And above all for high-quality plowing, mechanized planting (say, the same potatoes, other valuable crops), inter-row cultivation and harvesting of the grown crop.
For plowing, I recommend getting one- and one-and-a-half-horse plows, which you can make on your own. These tillage implements are installed in the sockets of a special frame: welded, from a channel 80XX40 mm (see illustrations), a special adjusting mechanism, a rubberized wheel and an actuator for the hydraulic drive of the suspension. And since the MT-7 plows the right wheels along the furrow, the plows are preset with such a deviation from the vertical to the right so that during work they take a perpendicular position (compensation is provided by the tilt of the mini-tractor body itself).

Accordingly, the toe of each plow must be turned by 1-2 degrees, but already to the left. Then the resistance of the ground, "choosing" all the gaps, will turn the machine (again to the right), and both tools will be in the longitudinal plane of the mini-tractor.
The ridges are cut by three hillers (see the corresponding illustration). When planting tubers, the hillers are rearranged, respectively, in other nests, and with one run of the mini-tractor, the tubers planted in the finished furrow are covered with hillers on both sides. At the same time, the third hiller, installed to the left of the second by 350 mm and slightly behind it, cuts a new furrow for planting the tubers of the next bed. That is, in one pass, the MT-7 performs both the filling of the previous one and the preparation of a new furrow.

When hilling potatoes, the front axle, as mentioned earlier, moves apart from one, left side, to a track of 1400 mm. The rear left wheel is replaced by another - special, with a welded elongated hub. And there is no damage to the processed potatoes.