How to remove scratches from plastic and make the surface perfectly smooth. Useful information on self-polishing plexiglass How to return color to black plastic on a car

Plexiglas is a material that has consolidated its position both in everyday life and in production. His specifications (strength, transparency, thermoplasticity) are not inferior to the properties of ordinary glass. The use of organic glass can lead to the need for polishing. Is it possible to polish the material at home and how? What is involved in the preparation and processing process? Everything is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance.

Features of the material and scope

Plexiglass is obtained from acrylic acid through various chemical reactions. This material is similar in various parameters to ordinary glass, but its nature is organic (hence the name of the material). There are several synonymous words - plexiglass, acriplast, carboglass, etc.

Among the main characteristics of plexiglass are:

• ease;
• softness;
• the ability to easily transform;
• pliability during processing;
• high throughput;
• plexiglas decomposes when exposed to certain chemicals.

Impact resistance of many types of plexiglas is 5 times higher than that of ordinary

Polymeric transparent material is used in various areas of human life, therefore, the use of organic glass can lead to a change in its appearance - deterioration in transparency, decrease in gloss, scratches, roughness and other unfavorable moments. Carboglass turns into ordinary plastic in case of large damage from glass. In this regard, the question often arises of the need to polish plexiglass at home.

Ways to polish plexiglass at home

You can give plaxiglass products their original appearance without resorting to complex tools or expensive materials.

There are several effective methods of dealing with the "non-commercial" type of plexiglass:

• Felt + GOI paste.
• The use of dichloroethane.
• The use of polishes.
• Homemade recipes (wine vinegar, toothpaste, etc.)

Using GOI paste, sandpaper and felt (with a detailed video)

You should know that there are coarse, medium and fine types of GOI paste

Algorithm:

1. Insulation of plaxiglass from other structures and elements. If possible, separate the plexiglass from other structures (glue the adjacent areas with adhesive tape, disconnect the plexiglass parts, etc.)
2. Using sandpaper with a grain of 2000, process organic glass, periodically wetting the surface with water (under a stream or with a spray gun). Consistency and unhurriedness are the main characteristics when doing this work. A matt uniform surface should be the result of this time consuming step.
3. The part wiped dry is polished using felt with GOI paste applied to it. This should be done slowly, achieving the highest quality result.

This method of restoring plexiglass is suitable for plexiglass in the presence of large scratches on it.

Following step by step instructions video material, you can easily cope with the task of eliminating the defects of plexiglass.

Home helpers (toothpaste, chalk, etc.) + video

Some craftsmen use chalk or toothpaste as a polishing agent, applying these substances to felt or other soft cloth. How to polish - by hand or with the help of technology - each specialist decides independently. The main thing is to get the result in the form of a smooth and shiny surface.

You can use ordinary towels made from natural materials. Apply some toothpaste to them and rub it in a circle onto the surface to be treated. Then rinse the plexiglass with plain water.

Below is a video demonstrating how to polish car headlights with toothpaste.

Is it possible to polish with your own hands using dichloroethane

The use of this substance is appropriate when processing small areas of plexiglass. Dichloroethane dissolves the Plexiglas top layer, thereby improving its appearance, leveling the surface and eliminating scratches. The chemical is applied to the acriplast with a spray bottle and is waited for complete drying.

But using this method requires good skill in work, since when removing scratches, you can add irregularities to the glass, and chemicals are not useful for a master who changes the look of plexiglass.

Other anti-scratch products

The product can be treated with any automotive polish for a smooth and shiny look.

1. It is advisable to test the action of car polishes by trying to treat a small area first, so as not to spoil the entire product.
2. If the result is satisfactory, then feel free to get to work. To do this, apply the auto cosmetics on a soft cloth and wipe the product in circular motions many times.

You can speed up the process with the help of power tools - a polishing wheel, grinding machines. When using such devices, do not forget that the rotation speed should not be too high, so as not to "burn" the surface.

The Japanese Compound paste has received good reviews in terms of polishing carboglass.

The set also includes a special polishing bar

The choice of chemicals for glass cleaning is a very important process, as some chemicals, instead of being useful, can cause severe damage to the surface by simply destroying it. Therefore, take great care when using such funds.

Any action to improve the appearance of acrylic glass will be in vain if it is harmful to your health. Therefore, when working, you must remember about safety precautions:

1. When working with a sandpaper or sander, wear protective goggles to prevent possible dust particles from entering your eyes.
2. Do not neglect the use of gloves, they are indispensable for safe work (when sanding the surface, when using chemicals). Match them to the size of your hand to avoid excess cloth getting into the polishing wheel.
3. When using chemicals, do not forget about the supply of fresh air to the room in which the work is carried out.
4. When working with special devices, be sure to check their serviceability and reliability of electrical wiring and sockets.
5. When spraying dichloroethane, use a respirator or medical personal mask.

The process of polishing plexiglass at home is laborious and time-consuming, especially if you work by hand. But the result will definitely reward you for your efforts. The plexiglass surface will become smooth, even, without chipping and scratches and will delight you for a long time.

What to do if the plastic molding or other part of the oldtimer made of plastic has lost its appearance, color, or completely cracked and began to collapse? Despite the strength of ABS plastic, it is highly susceptible to the negative influence of the external environment.

Plastic elements in the interior and exterior of cars began to appear in the second half of the 20th century. For example, in the American auto industry, the plastic era began to develop rapidly in the 1970s. From an economic point of view, this was a real discovery - the material was strong enough, durable, inexpensive to manufacture. However, nothing lasts forever, and time still takes its toll. Under the influence of ultraviolet rays, the plastic gradually burns out in the sun, becomes faded and "worn out", and in the case of external decorative elements of the body, there is another aggressor - reagents that are used to sprinkle and water roads in the cold season. In addition, in the process of active use, scratches and cracks will inevitably appear.

As a rule, plastic body elements are made of a material under the complex name acrylonitrile butadiene styrene, or simply ABS plastic. It is a shockproof resin that is resistant to moisture and oil. This polymer, which is very popular in the automotive industry, is also used for interior details. However, the material does not tolerate ultraviolet radiation well enough, and some types of this plastic are even destroyed by exposure to sunlight. In 1998, this led to one of the largest car recalls in US history - the seat belt buckle button, made of UV-resistant ABS plastic, broke and blocked the seat belt buckle, preventing the seat belt from being inserted or - much more dangerous - unfastening. As a result, 8,800,000 vehicles were recalled.

It's good if the part has retained its integrity, but has simply faded from time to time. In this case, you can get by with updating the top layer. For this, a whole series of products have been developed that restore the color of the part and extend its service life. Some of them even add details of flexibility that is lost over time, thereby reducing the risk of breakage. The American publication Consumer Reports conducted its own research, studying the characteristics of the products on the market. Depending on their characteristics (and, accordingly, cost), the drugs provide protection for parts for a period of two weeks to two years. It is worth noting that Consumer Reports analysts considered only the means for black plastic elements, although it is not difficult to find the necessary color scheme today. The test was carried out in a rather amusing format: the plastic body lining was divided into several parts (according to the amount of funds that took part in the test), treated with test compounds and ... put on the roof of the building where the Consumer Reports editorial office is located for 10 weeks. Each week, the panels were removed, washed, dried and sent back to the roof.

Best of all, according to experts, the harsh test of the scorching sun and torrential rains withstood the samples coated with ReNu Finish and Wipe New - the parts covered with them retained a bright black color throughout the entire 70 days of the test. The disadvantage of both products is that they are sold in small bottles, and at the same time they are much more expensive than analogues. Although the experts recognized the difference in the results as significant. The rest of the products (Turtle Wax Premium Grade, Meguiar’s Ultimate Black, Mothers Back-to-Black) showed a vigorous start, but by the end of the test all the parts processed by them had faded.

The old color of the plastic can be returned with a building hairdryer: with accurate uniform heating, the color appears on the surface of the part. For black plastic parts, you can use bumper ink (for example, Hi Gear or Astrokhim), however, judging by the reviews, the part quickly loses its attractive appearance again.

A blow dryer can help freshen up the look of a part, but unfortunately this is a temporary measure.

But what to do if the plastic element of your car has received a serious crack, and this is not a molding, but a whole body panel? In this case, welding will help, but here everything is much more complicated, and it would be better to turn to specialists. The fact is that ABS plastic unites a whole family of materials, the characteristics of which depend on the proportions of the constituents - acronitrile, butadiene and styrene. Depending on the proportion, each type of plastic has its own melting point, and therefore also its welding temperature. If you select too high a temperature during welding and overheat the plastic, the material will begin to foam and solidify in a porous state, making the weld brittle and short-lived. It is logical to assume that at insufficient temperature, the plastic will melt very badly, and a strong seam will not work. Therefore, when welding, a special hair dryer is used, on which you can manually set the exact temperature value depending on the type of plastic.

However, if solid strength is not required from the part, then you can do with simpler methods, which are actually enough: for example, use epoxy resin, glue the damaged area with fiberglass or reinforce with a metal mesh. Soldering also belongs to the simplified recovery method, which must be distinguished from welding. Actually, the difference lies precisely in the fact that when soldering it is extremely difficult to "get" to the required temperature, so the seam turns out to be fragile and porous. Enough to visually hide the defect, but will not provide strength and durability. In any case, the first step is to thoroughly rinse the part using a cleaning agent designed to remove tar, salts and other dirt. For this, you can use a special bitumen stain cleaner. There are a lot of offers on the market: АС-395, Hi Gear Buster Bug, Pingo Tar Remover, Liqui Moly Teerentferner and others. By the way, you can use the old-fashioned way - "white spirit" or kerosene. Also, it will not be superfluous to walk over the part with a brush. A horsehair brush works best for this purpose.

Finally, a very "difficult case" - if the part cannot be easily restored, and it is easier to replace it than to restore it. Well, if we are talking about a mass car model, for which it is easy to find the necessary parts. But what if you have a rare specimen, for which it is almost impossible to find components? Today, in addition to fiberglass, 3D printers are gaining popularity. Over the past two years, a host of industrial and scientific initiatives have been applied to master 3D printing technology in the automotive industry. Recently, polymer modification company Techmer PM presented even a full-fledged copy of the legendary Shelby Cobra, fully printed on a 3D printer. In this way, the company has demonstrated that this technology can be easily applied when restoring old cars. True, in this case, the authenticity of the car is lost, which is undesirable when working with autoclassics, and the technology itself is still developing and therefore is quite an expensive pleasure. However, the increasing percentage of 3D printing in the automotive industry gives hope that this option will become more affordable over time.

This Shelby Cobra is fully 3D printed

The plastic parts of the passenger compartment are not easier: the interior is protected from road reagents, but it suffers from the sun, bulky goods and sloppy passengers, earning scuffs, scratches and cracks.

However, it is possible to update the plastic parts and return them to their former novelty with budgetary funds. If the car is already elderly and represents a certain historical value, with a competent approach, you can increase its value by 500 dollars, while spending ten times less. Although, of course, everything depends on the scale of the problem.

First, the surface of the plastic interior part must be properly cleaned. A number of American experts, in particular, American restorer and presenter Stacy David, advise using trisodium phosphate - a compound that forms the basis of various detergents and cleaning agents. The next step in preparing for painting is to ensure sufficient adhesion of the surface to the paint you intend to apply. This can be done with a special adhesion promoter (Stacy David recommends Duplicolor) to provide a secure adhesion by acting as a primary primer before applying the base paint. If this is not done, then the new coating will fall on the old paint and will not adhere well - pretty soon the part will have to be repainted again. The first, rough layer of paint is also used as an additional binding agent. In the case of interior plastic, a very popular tool is vinyl paint (the so-called liquid vinyl) such as Plasti-Kote or the same Duplicolor. Which of these brands is better is a moot point, and the opinions of Western restorers on this issue differ. The paint is applied in several layers for secure fixing. It is at this moment that the magic happens: the old part turns into a new one, like from a factory, and all the years of its service are hidden under a layer of fresh paint. The final touch is the treatment of the part with a special reducing agent to give shine and additional protection. Armor All and Black Magic are in demand.

You can refresh the detail without painting. To do this, after the washing stage, the part is dried, and then treated with sandpaper, sanding all small irregularities. However, do not get too carried away - the most "gentle" of the coarse-grained, 6-H, which is usually used for the final sanding of soft woods, is enough. After that, the part is gently and evenly heated with an ordinary hair dryer, while wiping the element with a clean rag without much pressure. After such processing, the part will become noticeably younger, however, with severe abrasions, the homogeneous texture of the plastic cannot be completely restored.

If, among other things, there are still cracks on the parts, they can be dealt with with a simple superglue, which is applied along the entire length of the crack. For additional rigidity and durability, you can walk along the same place from the inside with a glue gun - this will ensure that the crack does not disperse. Excess dried glue is sanded with sandpaper.

The situation is somewhat different with the steering wheels with plastic rims. A layer of varnish is sanded off, after which all cracks and scratches are drilled out and expanded to make it easier to fill in the damaged areas with epoxy. Many people use standard two-component epoxy at this stage, but you can use, for example, a filler called Bondo, a brand from 3M. He has become almost a household name in America, in fact - automobile grinding mastic. When the mastic hardens to the state of molten cheese, the author recommends to process the pouring area with coarse sandpaper 25-H. The main thing here is not to waste time and not miss the right moment: completely hardened Bondo mastic is very problematic to sand with sandpaper.

Andrey Shuldeshov

Plastic has long become one of the most demanded materials for the manufacture of various things. It is found in toys, electronics, home appliances, cars, and home furnishings. But over time, any white plastic products begin to take on a yellow hue. The reason for this is exposure to sunlight, sudden changes in temperature, improper care and natural reactions with oxygen. In such situations, you can try to whiten yellowed plastic to restore its former beauty.

Windows deserve special attention. Plastic structures used in conjunction with glass very often turn yellow when exposed to ultraviolet radiation emitted by the sun. Bright rays can illuminate them all day. If this happens regularly over several years, then the appearance of a yellow tint is inevitable. Additional factors are sharp temperature drops and improper operation.

The plastic used for window elements contains various substances that can prolong its life. Therefore, clean the windowsill with care. Can't use:

• Dishwashing detergents;
• Hard lips;
• Abrasive powders;
• Acetone and agents similar in composition;
• Alkaline substances;
• Hot water.

All other means of getting rid of yellow spots can be used without fear.

How to bleach plastic

It is not so difficult to restore the previous look to plastic products. This can be done at home without assistance. You just need to stock up on all the necessary tools that will be used to achieve the goal. There are several cleaning methods.

Useful video on plastic whitening - video:

A simple but very effective remedy. Laundry soap will help renew old plastic by giving it a white tint again. This method is most effective when color changes are caused by exposure to fatty deposits.

How to proceed:

1. Grate (½ bar).
2. Pour in warm water (150 ml), stir.
3. Apply the prepared solution to the problem area. Wait 30 minutes.
4. Wipe with a clean sponge, wash off any soapy residue with clean water.

You can use this method in any case, since soap is harmless.

Special napkins

Electronics stores sell special wipes. They contain various substances that are able to clean computer equipment from contamination without any harm. They also help with yellowing.

How to clean:

1. Wipe the yellow mark with a napkin every 6 hours.
2. Repeat daily for several days until the yellowness disappears completely.

This option is ideal for household appliances and plastic window sills.

Tooth powder with chalk

Such an unusual mixture allows you to return the white color to things, if shades of yellowness have appeared recently. You can also try it for stubborn stains, but you will hardly be able to achieve significant results.

What do we have to do:

1. Mix a small amount of chalk and tooth powder.
2. Add water to make a thick gruel.
3. Spread over the entire surface of the plastic, wait until dry.
4. Remove powder residues with a dry cloth.

The procedure can be repeated many times.

Soda and washing powder

Baking soda is very often used to remove dirty stains from various things. She also does an excellent job with yellowness.

How to use it:

1. Stir baking soda (1 tbsp. L.), Washing powder (1 tbsp. L.) And water (500 ml).
2. Apply liquid to a plastic object. Wait 8 hours.
3. Wash off all traces with a damp cloth.

An excellent option for cleaning window sills.

Vinegar

Acetic acid is an equally effective way to restore whiteness to plastic products. To do this, you will need its 70% solution.

Cleaning process:

1. Soak a soft cloth or large cotton ball in the vinegar.
2. Wipe off the plastic.
3. Wash the surface of the object with water.

When using acid, wear rubber gloves and ventilate the area. It is also not recommended to use a remedy for getting rid of yellowness on sensitive plastic.

Citric acid with chlorine

A powerful whitening agent that can be used on thin plastic items without worrying about their integrity.

How to use:

1. Mix equal amounts of citric acid and chlorine.
2. Apply to stains. Wait 30 minutes.
3. Remove leftover funds.

This mixture can be applied many times until it is possible to return the yellowed plastic to its usual appearance.

Hydrogen peroxide

This medicine is very popular and is present in every medicine cabinet. It helps not only to disinfect wounds, but also to put in order the surface of the yellowed plastic.

Mode of application:

1. Wet a soft sponge with peroxide.
2. Wipe the yellow spots repeatedly.
3. Wash off remaining traces of peroxide.

The product does not harm plastic. Therefore, long-term and repeated use of it is allowed until the required result is obtained.

Alcohol

Alcohol has become very popular in cleaning from dirt. It destroys the composition of any dirt, making things clean again. It also effectively helps to whiten strongly yellowed plastic. Its composition not only removes yellowness, but literally destroys the structure of the upper layers of the object. Therefore, it should be used with caution.

How is alcohol used:

1. Soak a rag in it.
2. Wipe off the yellow parts of the surface.
3. Remove all traces of alcohol with clean water.

This method is suitable for coarse, dense plastics on household appliances and various appliances.

Acetone

Another very aggressive solvent that can not only lighten plastic, but also damage it. Before use, it is recommended to apply a small amount of acetone to an inconspicuous area of \u200b\u200bthe object to check the reaction. If everything is in order, then it can be used. However, caution still comes in handy.

Whitening:

1. Moisten a thick cotton pad with acetone.
2. Wipe off the plastic.
3. Wipe off any traces of the product with a damp cloth.

You can use nail polish remover instead of acetone. Its composition is not so harmful to the coating, but shows less efficiency.

Special products for plastic recovery

You can restore white plastic objects to their original appearance using special tools that are designed to restore plastic in cars. You can buy them in car repair shops and showrooms with spare parts.

How to use:

1. Apply to the problem area following the instructions.
2. Wait until dry.

Before use, be sure to read the instructions.

Bleach

Option for small items. It involves completely soaking things in chlorine.

How to do it:

1. Dilute bleach or bleach (1 tablespoon) in water (1 liter), adding a little baking soda (1 tablespoon).
2. Put the item to be restored in a container with liquid. Leave it overnight.
3. Remove and rinse the item thoroughly under cool water.

With very strong yellowing, soaking in pure bleach without diluting it with water is allowed.

conclusions

The above methods should be enough to deal with the problem and get back your white plastic. If the yellowness turns out to be very old and does not give in to any means, then you can simply carefully cover it with paint that is most suitable in shade, or paint the entire product as a whole. This will hide all problem areas.

10/29/2016 6,127,697 views

All kinds of plastic surfaces surround us. They are comfortable and practical, but prone to deformation. Therefore, the question of how to polish plastic from scratches is always relevant. In order for your favorite smartphone, windowsill or TV to retain an attractive appearance, you need to read our tips and, using simple steps, turn them into almost their original appearance.

It is enough to look around to see how indispensable plastic has become in everyday life. It is used to make: household appliances, communications equipment, kitchen utensils, car parts, and finishing materials.

This material is lightweight and cheap, easy to operate and unpretentious, and also resistant to temperature fluctuations. The only drawback is the relatively low density, which is a consequence of the appearance of scuffs and scratches on it. Because of this, it is too expensive to change the entire product.

Preparation

Getting started, it is necessary first of all to decide what we are actually going to do and what available means. It is not difficult to polish, it is only important to know how. To begin with, you should understand that jack of all trades distinguish at least three different types of such actions:

1. Thermal (using a hair dryer).
2. Chemical (that is, acting on plastic with toothpaste, polish or GOI paste).
3. Mechanical (using a drill or other polishing machine).

Initially, we estimate how great the damage caused, and based on this, we choose a method of further work:

1. Remove scratches from plastic by hand polishing.
2. Deeper damage can be overcome using heat.
3. The finish is chemically treated to a perfect sheen, and your headlights will shine like new.

When the future strategy of action is determined, it remains to carefully prepare the product for work. Using the most common dishwashing or glass cleaner, you should carefully remove accumulated dirt and grease stains. Surely the plastic has a frame made of a different material. These places are pasted over with masking tape, which will be removed after the end of the work.

Plastic sanding

This method of mechanical processing of a plastic surface is used if there are deep scratchesthat cannot be effectively eliminated in any other way. The material lends itself well to grinding, having a low melting point. As a result of leisurely, careful work, we should get an even matte surface where there were deep scratches before. Here is the subsequent range of actions:

• we place the previously cleaned material where it will be convenient to work with it;
• prepare the workplace, remove all unnecessary items;
• we take several waterproof skins of various textures as a processing material;
• a special grinding machine is useful as an auxiliary tool;
• if there is no typewriter, then it should be borne in mind that grinding with soapy water gives a good effect.

We begin the work using a skin that has a large texture. Grinding is not a hurry; accuracy is required. We process the product in a slow mode, monitor the temperature, it should not overheat. We methodically move from the coarse texture of the skins to the smaller ones. After using each of them, we wipe the treated area with a dry cloth, this allows you not to miss the remaining shortcomings.

How to polish plastic from scratches yourself?

There are several ways, using which, removing scratches and scuffs will cease to be an impossible dream. At home, with the help of simple devices, you can make a shabby product perfect with your own hands.

If the plastic surface that your kitchen table has has stopped sparkling and is covered with scratches, then polishing it to its original shine is not difficult.

The same method will allow you to make the window slope as textured as it was several years ago. A few hours of focused work will save you significant money.

Manual polishing

After getting rid of the scratches, it's time to move on to the next laborious process - polishing, which makes the old part almost new. Services involving the removal of scratches are widely provided by car and cellular dealerships, as well as specialized cleaning companies.

They are not cheap, the same work is easy to do with your own hands. After all, special tools and devices that are used by professionals are sold in all car dealerships. The main thing when choosing a polishing paste: do not forget that we will process plastic; in order not to miss the choice, you should consult with the seller, who will give professional advice.

By the way, GOI paste has proven itself well with the selected processing method. It should be familiar to those who served in the army and washed a belt badge. With this tool, you can ideally polish objects that do not claim to be pristine transparency.

If we are talking about a TV that has scratches or a phone that has serious abrasions, then it is better to use special pastes. They may be more expensive, but the effect will be desired.

Manual polishing:

• optimally processes small parts and small surfaces;
• we take a homogeneous paste, impurities and grains are excluded;
• oil will give a special gloss;
• apply the paste to the surface with felt or felt
• we use circular movements;
• the hand goes easily, the pressure is not great;
• the whole process takes 15 to 20 minutes.

We use a polishing machine, which in the most budgetary version consists of a drill with a special attachment:

• an inexpensive polishing pad is sold in the store;
• the best application of such a machine is the surface of the headlights;
• good savings are provided by replacing the nozzle with a piece of ordinary felt.

This material requires solid fastening so that it does not fall off.

Polishing treatment

Do not forget about polish among the products purchased in a specialty store. With its help, the result of your work will be glossy plastic, no different from the one that we purchased in the store. The technology of work is as follows:

1. The product is applied to the surface in a small uniform layer.
2. It is necessary to thoroughly grind it with a special cloth or attachment.
3. Then, in fact, the process of work begins, by which the required result is achieved, the plastic will bring the polish to a mirror shine.
4. If the surface of the phone is polished, then, exposed to periodic exposure to moisture, the transparent plastic eventually loses the achieved result, and the process should be repeated.
5. Repetition is necessary in any case if you see that your plastic is again black and worn.

Conclusion: to avoid frequent updates, protect household items from moisture.

Using a polishing machine

This is a completely professional tool that allows you to bring the restoration of the product to the perfect process. Such a tool is useful and convenient. It is especially recommended for motorists who from time to time improve the headlights of their car, as well as its plastic surfaces. The main convenience lies in speed, a volume of work is done in a few minutes, which will take manually, perhaps more than one hour.

The consideration guided by a person acquiring such equipment is the need to clean up his household from time to time. Such a polishing masterpiece is not so expensive, it is available in stores selling power tools.

Several nuances that should be observed in the process of using the tool:

• before using special tools, it is necessary to remove the remnants of dirt with a damp nozzle;
• when the action is nearing the end, one of the special pastes purchased in the store is used;
• a special foam nozzle will help to bring a special gloss to the product.

The entire method takes a few minutes.

Video: how to polish plastic from scratches with a polishing machine?

Hair dryer

Another rather original method of getting rid of scratches is to use the most ordinary hair dryer. The meaning of the method is simple: plastic reacts vividly to sudden changes in temperature, so heat treatment is the best way to "heal wounds" on the surface of your phone.

For work, two types of tools are used: a conventional hair dryer used to dry hair, and a special building unit.

1. Before work, dirt is removed from the plastic.
2. It is best to start the process with minimum power.
3. We direct a stream of hot air to the required area.
4. If scratches persist, the power should be gradually increased, but without fanaticism.
5. The main expected result is that the area with the scratches will take on a matte base and they will disappear.
6. After cooling down, the plastic starts polishing.

Toothpaste

In some cases, there is no need to purchase expensive products. As practice shows, such improvised means as ordinary toothpaste can serve as an abrasive for polishing the same headlights. Despite the low cost and extreme availability, the surface shine, in the end, turns out to be no worse than when using a proprietary product from a specialized store.

The principle of working with this tool:

• we get rid of dirt with the help of detergents;
• the composition of the product must be neutral;
• after degreasing, the product is washed and dried;
• the paste is applied to a piece of flannel;
• circular movements, clockwise or counterclockwise;
• it is periodically necessary to wash off the resulting gruel;
• the remaining paste is best removed with a damp sponge.

Obviously, using simple methods and a budgetary arsenal of funds, you can save significant money and get a truly brilliant result.

4.3 / 5 ( 9 votes)

Plastic has many advantages, but it also has one significant drawback - fragility. Plastic products can crack, break, chunks, etc. If the damage is significant, then the thing is easier to throw away and buy a new one than to repair it, but small damage is quite within the power to fix it yourself. The restoration of plastic can be carried out by different methods, the choice of which largely depends on the type of plastic itself. Many plastic products can be labeled with the composition of the plastic and this will help in choosing a recovery technology. So, thermosetting plastics are glued using special glue, and thermoplastics are sealed. Also, the method of repairing plastic products depends on the nature of the damage - crack, scratch, chip, etc.

When repairing plastic items, the following materials and tools may be needed: solvents (for example, acetone), sanding paper # 1000, soldering iron or glue for plastic, clamps, abrasive paste, brushes or syringe, solder, plastic cleaner, brass mesh, primer and paint for plastic, sander, varnish.

Plastic repair with glue

• Before starting the restoration, the plastic is treated with sanding paper, removing dirt. It is also necessary to degrease the bonding site.
• Glue is applied to the crack or seam with a brush or syringe. If necessary, parts of the plastic for bonding can be reinforced with fiberglass.
• Next, the parts are combined so that they do not move and at the same time are tightly pressed against each other. For best results, you can use a clamp.

Repair of plastic using soldering

Repairing plastic with epoxy

For this method, you will need an epoxy mole and hardener, glass cloth or serpyanka tape (sold in hardware stores), acetone, castor oil, a file and sanding paper, electrical tape or tape, plastic dishes and wooden sticks, plastic primer, polyester putty, auto enamel.

1. Surface preparation. The plastic product is washed in hot water with detergent to remove dirt and grease. The damaged areas are cleaned with fine sandpaper and degreased with a solvent (acetone). If there are chips at the corners and edges, then vinyl tape is glued to the outside of the product, creating a barrier for the epoxy resin. Cloth tape is not allowed as it can stick tightly to the resin and can only be removed with sandpaper. It is not necessary to create the exact shape of the broken edge of the product, since in the future, polyester putty and a file will help to shape it.
2. Large fragments of the part are glued with tape from the outside, and small fragments are laid out in the form of a mosaic on adhesive tape, and then put in place.



3. Preparation of epoxy. A jar of resin is placed in warm water for a couple of minutes so that the composition is easier to pour out of the jar. Resin is poured into a plastic container, a hardener is added in a ratio of 1 part to 10 parts of resin and the composition is mixed with a wooden stick. Then add 1-3 parts of castor oil (acts as a plasticizer). If the resin is thick, you can add some acetone to it. In a state ready for gluing, the mixture remains for 2-4 hours, therefore, as much epoxy is prepared as can be used in 2 hours. All this work must be carried out with rubber gloves, since the resin firmly adheres to the hands. And if for the first time a couple of hours it can still be washed with acetone, then it is very difficult to remove it later.
4. The resin is allowed to settle for 10-15 to remove air bubbles. Then proceed to gluing from the inside of the product. Small cracks are eliminated as follows: resin is applied to the damaged areas and rubbed into the cracks. A piece of sickle tape or fiberglass is placed on top of the damage, covered with resin and also rubbed in. Usually, up to 2-3 layers of serpyanka are applied crosswise.



5. Medium-sized and large cracks are also repaired, but there should be 4-6 layers of serpyanka, and the width of the gluing should be 5-10 cm. Another layer can be applied from the front side. In places with a heavy load, instead of a sickle tape, fiberglass is used (not on the front side).
6. Chips at the corners are removed as follows: pre-glued electrical tape and plastic are lubricated with epoxy resin and a patch is laid out from the serpyanka in several layers on the damaged area. It is difficult to completely fill the gap between the serpentine and the electrical tape, but this deficiency can be corrected with putty.
7. A small mosaic of fragments is smeared with resin, trying not to disturb the layout, and rubbed into the cracks. You can also make a liquid resin, pour it in and wait for it to absorb. Serpyanka or fiberglass is applied with patches in 3-4 layers, and it is better to do this 16-20 hours after pouring with resin. Air bubbles and voids are not desirable. Dries all this day at a temperature of 18-25 degrees.
8. Further, the dried products are cleaned of resin drips, scuffs, the seams are also cleaned and the surface is leveled with a polyester putty using a spatula. The putty dries for 12 hours, then you can sand the product with a "zero" sanding pad.
9. At the last stage, the product is primed with a compound for plastic (usually the primer comes in a spray can) and painted with auto enamel or other paint for plastic.