On Mazda 3, the timing belt chain. Belt brands, prices and article numbers

19.12.2020

The first generation Mazda 3 won the love of many motorists around the world. For the first time, the Mazda 3 was presented at the Geneva Motor Show in 2003, and a few months later its mass production began. In 2006, the car underwent restyling, as a result of which sound insulation was improved, bumpers, radiator grilles, instrument panel and interior upholstery were changed. After the update, ABS and EBD systems were included in the list of basic equipment. At the same time, sports versions of the MPS and Flash Edition appeared. In 2009, the second generation Mazda 3 replaced it.

Engines

The first generation Mazda 3 was offered with two body styles - hatchback and sedan. For the Russian market, the 3-series Mazda was equipped with Z6 1.6 l (105 hp) and 2.0 l LF (150 hp) gasoline engines. The sports version of the MPS car received a gasoline turbocharged MZR DISI Turbo 2.3 l (260 hp). At the Mazda 3 "American origin" installed atmospheric 2.0 and 2.3 liters.

All engines with a timing belt driven by a plate chain tensioned by an automatic tensioner. The valves on all engines are driven directly from the camshafts through cylindrical pushers, which simultaneously serve as clearance adjusting elements, that is, without hydraulic compensators.

All engines shared a number of minor problems in common. This is the chirping of the intake manifold, which appears when the vehicle is driven over 120 - 140 thousand km. The knock is emitted by the plastic damper actuators due to the gap increasing over time. Another more serious problem arises with connecting rod bushings with a mileage of more than 110 - 130 thousand km. Basically, this disease affects motors produced in 2005 - 2006. On the liners, the bobbin peels off, which covers the inner surface, as a result of which there is a backlash in the connecting rod, and when the "gas" increases, a "clap" or "crack" is heard in the motor. A set of new inserts will cost 4 - 5 thousand rubles - for the original and 2 - 3 thousand rubles - for not the original.


Mazda 3 hatchback (2006-2009)

With a mileage of more than 60 - 100 thousand km, the engine support may fail (2.5 - 3.5 thousand rubles - not the original and 4.5 - 5 thousand rubles - the original). The loss of its performance will cost the engine a leak from under the front cover of the engine, which has lost its tightness due to vibrations.

Some owners have experienced sticking of the gas pedal in its original position. The reason for this phenomenon was the contamination of the gas control cable wiring with a run of more than 60 thousand km.

The timing chain is unlikely to require replacement before 250 - 300 thousand km. Attachment drive belts run 60 - 100 thousand km. Together with them, it is necessary to replace the pretensioners and the bearings of the drive belt.


Mazda 3MPS (2006 - 2009)

Engines of 1.6 liters are the most frequently encountered under the hood of the Mazda 3. The first problems associated with unstable operation and "tripping" appeared when the mileage was more than 60 - 80 thousand km. The reason for this was the lost elasticity of the intake manifold O-rings, which caused air leakage. In some cases, the oil pressure sensor gave a "leak".

An increased oil consumption is characteristic of a 2.0 liter engine with a mileage of more than 100 - 120 thousand km. It is often possible to significantly reduce it after replacing the valve stem seals.

Loss of traction and increased fuel consumption are often caused by incorrect readings of the mass air flow sensor due to its contamination or oxidation of contacts in the electrical connector.

A 2.3 liter engine is rare. It also does not cause big problems, and the frivolous ones are the same as for the rest. In general, the engine is quite reliable, provided that good oil is used and its timely replacement. Here sometimes there is a "glitch" of the throttle, which stops responding to pressing the "gas" pedal. After removing the terminal from the battery for a few minutes, the ailment disappears by itself.

Oxygen sensors run 60 - 120 thousand km. Most often it is necessary to change the 1st "lambda probe" on cars with a 1.6 liter engine. The catalyst serves 120 - 140 thousand km.

Transmission

Initially, a five-speed mechanics G35M-R was installed on the "three-ruble note" with all types of engines. And the Mazda 3 in the Touring configuration with a 1.6 liter engine could be equipped with a 4-speed "automatic" Activematic FN4A-EL on request. Since 2006, the 2.0 liter engines were already equipped with a 6-speed "mechanics", and since 2008 also with a 5-speed automatic transmission FS5A-EL.

Automatic transmissions serve faithfully and without complaints. A characteristic feature of cars with automatic transmission is a characteristic metallic ringing when starting the engine.

There are no problems with the manual transmission either. With a run of more than 200 thousand km, the synchronizers begin to "get tired". The clutch survives well over a hundred, as a rule, 130 - 180 thousand km. The only unpleasant little thing is the leakage of the clutch master cylinder due to “weakened” cuffs. There is no point in changing only them, so after replacing they will begin to flow even earlier. The way out is to replace the master cylinder entirely (2 thousand rubles + 4 thousand rubles - work).

Chassis

The suspension can hardly be called non-killable. The supports of the front shock absorbers begin to knock when the mileage is more than 60 - 70 thousand km, and the shock absorbers themselves - at 60 - 90 thousand km. Rear shock absorbers run longer - 90 - 120 thousand km. The turn of the front and rear stabilizer struts starts at 70 - 90 thousand km. Front wheel bearings often give up with a mileage of 90 - 110 thousand km (2 - 3 thousand rubles). Ball joints in the front levers travel more than 100 - 140 thousand km (4-6 thousand rubles). Silent blocks in the levers live up to 100 - 150 thousand km. The first, as a rule, fit on the trailing arms and rear small ones, a little later the descent-breakup.


Mazda 3 hatchback (2003 -2006)

A knock on the rail is a three-ruble disease, as well as many other foreign cars. Do not rush to change it entirely (30 - 35 thousand rubles - new, 15 - 20 thousand rubles - used + 5 thousand rubles for work). A repair kit made of "breadcrumbs", a spring and a nut with a locknut will heal the rail and will cost less, only about 2 thousand rubles.

On 2-liter, often with a mileage of more than 60 - 80 thousand km, the electrohydraulic power steering fails due to overheating in traffic jams. Manufacturers have even run a recall campaign for amplifier problems.

The front brake discs work up to 90 - 110 thousand km (5-6 thousand rubles), the rear ones are much longer. The front brake pads require replacement every 40-50 thousand km. One of the features of the brakes is the hum that occurs when reversing in wet weather.


Mazda 3 sedan (2006-2009)

Other problems and malfunctions

The body iron of Mazda 3 is not subject to corrosion, in places of chips the paint is in no hurry to swell. On Mazda 3 before 2006, one of the problems was the impact of "sandblasting" on the rear arches, which then began to bloom. On cars with a sedan body, the rear shelf often flies off by welding and a creak appears. Over time, the rubber seal of the wires in the trunk lid begins to leak. It is enough to treat it with silicone grease, and it again begins to cope with its task.

Many have encountered an unpleasant phenomenon such as melting of the rear lights. Glasses "protivotumanok" often burst in wet weather - heated glass does not withstand temperature changes when cool water hits its surface. If you want to extend their life, use tumanki only in dry weather.

In winter, the end switch of the driver's door lock often "wedges". As a result, when the doors are closed, the signaling device shows that they are open, the light in the passenger compartment does not go out and it is impossible to close the locks from the remote "remote control" of the alarm.

"Crickets" in the cabin appear at the bottom of the windshield (plastic trim outside), behind (plastic supports in the canopy of the trunk lid). Sometimes the trunk closing handle begins to rattle.

On Mazda 3 before 2006, the contacts on the handle of the climate control regulator often come off. Many have encountered a buzzing sound at the bottom of the instrument panel to the right of the steering wheel. Its source is a stepper motor (motor), after cleaning and lubrication of which the noise dies down.

Windshield wipers can stop working when the mileage is 40-60 thousand km. The manufacturer conducted a revocable campaign, during which it added additional "mass" to the electric motor, the standard wiring was stubbornly losing it.

As with many cars, over time, it is possible for the wires to break in the protective corrugation connecting the body and the trunk lid. As a result, the central brake light, taillights on the lid cease to light, or its lock stops working.

Often, problems in the Mazda 3 electrics are caused by oxidation and "decay" of one of the contacts in the fuse box under the hood. To do this, just knock on the cover of this unit from the front edge, just there the wiring harness comes in. If the green "oxide" sprinkles, then there can be no doubts, it is necessary to rewire the wires.

After driving through holes at high speed, the fuel gauge needle may freeze or fall to "0". It is treated by additional refueling of more than 20 liters of fuel or by twitching the contact on the "chip".

And the most original - the burnout of the cigarette lighter and glove compartment bulbs leads to an open circuit, and the occurrence of interruptions in the operation of the radio.

Let's sum up

The described possible problems are not so terrible and not too burdensome in financial terms, with the exception of a defect in the connecting rod bearings. In addition, it should be borne in mind that the manifestation of all these shortcomings on one car is unlikely. It's safe to say the Mazda 3 is a good choice.

The compact car Mazda 3, produced by the company of the same name in the Japanese city of Hofu, was first introduced in 2004. The new model has positioned itself as a permanent replacement for the Mazda Familia. After 5 years, the manufacturer introduced the second generation of the car. The novelty was constantly being finalized and improved, so in 2011 at the Geneva Motor Show a restyled version of the second generation appeared before the world public. And two years later, in a place unusual for the debut of cars - in Australia - they officially announced the start of production of the third version of the Mazda 3.

The car has become widespread throughout the world. This is partly due to the fact that golf-class vehicles are more in demand among motorists in Europe. The Mazda 3 is highly regarded for its versatility, handling and driving dynamics. The model also fell in love with the domestic driver. Still, Japanese cars, first of all, are high build quality and reliability. In just 10 years of production of the model, over 4 million cars were sold, which became a kind of record for the company. Resource-intensive Japanese engines make a significant contribution to the popularization of cars. In this article, we will tell you exactly what the resource of the Mazda 3 engine is, according to the manufacturer's assurance and the owners' reviews.

Range of powertrains Mazda 3

Initially, the model was equipped with 1.6 and 2.0 liter MZR engines. Both engines are paired with a manual transmission and an Actievematic four-speed automatic. In 2004, Japanese engineers decided to diversify the engine options for the model, adding new installations to a number of units: a 1.4-liter gasoline engine and a 1.6-liter diesel engine equipped with a Common Rail system. The debut of the third generation marked the beginning of production of new engines of the Skyactiv family. So the lineup was diversified by a 1.5-liter Skyactiv-G I4 petrol engine with a declared capacity of 118 "horses" and a 2.0-liter Skyactiv-G I4 with a capacity of 184 horsepower.

Gasoline 1.6, 2.0-liter power units from Mazda 3 of the first and second generation are available for the Russian market. As for the third generation, car modifications with 1.5, 1.6 Skyactiv engines were officially supplied to the country. But already a two-liter more powerful unit can be purchased only in the European or Asian market. Another feature of the third-generation Mazda 3 trim levels for Russia is the absence of a manual transmission for Skyactiv. Engines are aggregated by an automatic transmission. But here there is plenty to choose from: assemblies with 4 and 6-speed automatic are available.

The first generation model was equipped with a 1.6 liter Z6 engine, which also found its application in the predecessor of the Mazda 3 - Familia. The engine became a logical continuation of the B unit family, or rather the B6D variant. The Japanese designers took the B6D as the basis for the installation, but they thoroughly modified the combustion chamber, modernized the intake and exhaust valves. To make the engine sustained and resource-intensive, it was decided to equip it with a timing chain drive. The chain, according to the manufacturer, does not require replacement throughout the entire service life of the Z6. The S-VT variable valve timing system has found its place on the intake camshaft. Another distinctive feature of the Z6 is the presence of an exhaust gas recirculation system, due to which the designers of Mazda managed to "adjust" the engine to specific environmental standards.

The main problem with the Z6 is a stuck EGR valve. Experienced drivers and auto mechanics agree that the malfunction is felt due to low quality fuel. As the owner of a first generation Mazda 3 with a Z6 engine, it is important to take care of the quality of fuel material. Operating the car on low-quality gasoline leads to the fact that the valve is covered with carbon deposits and it gets stuck in a certain position. Often, car owners note the oddities in the operation of the engine: the sound of a gasoline Z6 can resemble a diesel engine. This is most often due to problems with the intake manifold flaps. The resource of the motor is within the range from 350 to 400 thousand kilometers. The indicator depends on the timeliness of service and proper care.

The two-liter inline "four" with a displacement of 2 liters is one of the most interesting engines produced by Mazda with some technical features. In general, it is a hardy and resourceful power unit that generates 150 "horses". However, the LF17 is not devoid of weaknesses: the owners note that closer to the turn of 200 thousand kilometers, the engine begins to "eat" oil. The problem is rather an isolated one than a massive one. Auto mechanics and ordinary car enthusiasts complain about untimely engine maintenance and the use of non-original spare parts.

The increased "appetite" of the engine is eliminated by replacing the valve stem seals, which are clogged due to the use of cheap and unsuitable fuel. Due to its design features, the LF17 is difficult to overhaul. Not every specialist in Japanese engines will undertake to bore out the cylinder liners, so most often Mazda 3 car lovers resort to looking for a used installation in the secondary market. However, the LF17 unit with all its problems and shortcomings is able to cover over 280 thousand kilometers before the first serious breakdown.

The 2.0-liter engine under the factory designation LF-DE is still used in Ford vehicles. The motor was developed and constructed by Japanese engineers in close cooperation with overseas partners. According to Mazda, this unit is capable of traveling up to 350 thousand kilometers without a single major repair. The operating experience of Russian drivers suggests that Mazda 3 with LF-DE under the hood is capable of covering 400 thousand kilometers. A reliable chain extends the engine resource. It does not require replacement throughout the entire operation of the car, but under conditions of increased loads, as a rule, it fails after overcoming 200-250 tyk.

One "chronic" LF-DE disease is weak omentum. Often, system pressure forces the lubricant through the gaskets and seals, contaminating the unit body. Camshaft oil seals are especially prone to premature failure. Up to 100 mileage, the thermostat can go out, candle wells also suffer, which must be constantly monitored. There are no hydraulic compensators in LF-DE, which means that the car owner will have to independently adjust the thermal clearances after 100-150 thousand km.

The Skyactiv 2.0 motor belongs to the first series of the global family. The engine has good dynamic performance - 165 horsepower, for some markets it is "strangled" to 150 hp. It is numbered among the number of modern and technological installations: here and direct fuel injection, and a variable valve timing system, and hydraulic lifters.

According to the reviews of the owners of the Mazda 3 car, this engine runs noisily at idle, which is its feature, but when the operating temperature is reached, the noise and vibration disappear. The motor did not receive any particular complaints from automotive experts and drivers - high-quality assembly, reliable design. The average resource is 350 thousand kilometers before the first repair.

The newest 1.5-liter engine with the P5-VPS marking, according to the manufacturer's plan, should replace the outdated Z6. The Mazda 3 model is presented in two modifications with P5-VPS: the first with a compression ratio of 13 and a power of 100 "horses", the second with a compression ratio of 14 and a declared power of 120 forces. Both engine versions received a direct fuel injection system, a variable valve timing system on both shafts Dual S-VT. Skyactiv 1.5 received a lightweight connecting rod-piston group, the pistons are made in a special shape that maximizes the combustion process in the cylinders.

But with all this, the dynamic performance of the engine remains at an average level, from which many car owners complain about the lack of power of the Mazda 3. For everyday trips around the city, a sedan with Skyactiv 1.5 will be enough, and little power will not be felt. But when leaving the track, you can face the fact that the car will "choke" when overtaking. The resource of the Mazda 3 engine is on average 300 thousand kilometers. This is a relatively new installation, the problems of which will be revealed by the prolonged operation of the machine.

Car owners reviews

All installations available for the model are of high quality, tested and many of them have already been tested by time. The popularity rating of Mazda 3 engines is headed by the 1.6-liter Z6 - today there are more copies of the first and second generation cars in Russia. Cars with this engine successfully plow European and Russian roads, there are copies with a mileage of 500 thousand kilometers. But when purchasing a sedan with such an engine, you need to be prepared for possible difficulties with the EGR valve. Although high-quality and timely service reduces the likelihood of serious breakdowns. What is the resource of the Mazda 3 engine really? The reviews of the owners of the model will tell about this.

Power plants 1.5 l

  1. Maxim, Syzran. Greetings! I have a 2014 Mazda 3, 1.5 P5-VPS engine, Active equipment with an automatic transmission. I chose the car, focusing on my own budget. The priority was the Japanese car. I like their reliability and durability. Now the mileage is 80 thousand kilometers. From experience I can say that the resource of the engine entirely depends on the quality of service of the vehicle, its key units and parts. Auto mechanics at the service station say that the first really serious problems with P5-VPS begin at the turn of 250 tyk. So far, the sedan has not given me any trouble - I change the engine oil and consumables on time.
  2. Yuri, Tula. A year ago, I bought a Mazda 3, a PE-VPS (Skyactiv 1.5) engine, during this time it has driven only 15 thousand km. First impressions: the engine is very noisy, especially when it is cold. With warming up, strange sounds disappear, and the engine goes into smooth and quiet operation. By dynamics: in my opinion, this is the best option among 1.4-1.8 liter cars. I calmly bypass the Kia Rio on the track, but already against the background of the Volvo CX90 or Nissan Murano, there is a lack of power. I replaced the factory oil, decided to fill in Liqui Moly 5W40, so far the flight is normal.
  3. Stanislav, Minsk. Skyactiv 1.5 engine, mileage 40,000 km, pour 0w20 Mobil oil in winter. I haven’t changed anything yet, I haven’t touched the motor, only consumables, I went through two scheduled maintenance. Mazda 3 is liked by both design and interior. There are enough dynamics on the track, the engine runs stably, the revs do not float. Taking into account the Japanese build quality, it is safe to say that such motors travel 350,000 kilometers lightly.

Skyactiv motors run noisily, vibrations are noticed, but these nuances of functioning do not affect the resource. It is important for the driver to monitor the condition of the spark plugs, to replace the SZ better ahead of time. The manufacturability of the ignition system consists of built-in ion sensors in the ignition coils. If this device breaks down, there will be problems with starting the motor. This is important to consider. The maximum possible resource of the engine is thoroughly unknown, since the required amount of time has not passed yet. But there is every reason to believe that the real resource of the Mazda 3 engine is 350 thousand kilometers.

1.6 l engine

  1. Alexey, Novokuznetsk. I have been driving a Mazda 3 of the first generation of 2007 production for more than ten years. I had a modification with a 1.6-liter Z6 engine with 105 "horses" and an automatic transmission. I traveled 200,000 kilometers behind the wheel of a car, during this time I changed the oil twice in the machine, in the engine, as expected, after 7-8 thousand km. The car is dynamic and economical. On the highway at a speed of 140 km / h, consumption averaged 10 liters per hundred, if reduced to 110 km / h, then 8 liters is stable. Repair: changed rubber bands, gaskets, crankshaft oil seals, after 100 tyk replaced the cylinder head gasket. The engine is unpretentious, easy to digest AI-95 "Lukoil". As a result, I recently sold the car, as funds were urgently needed. I am sure that the 400-450 thousand km modification with the Z6 will go smoothly.
  2. Vasily, Moscow. Took a new car in 2015 from the salon. New 1.6-liter engine, third generation with ZM-DE. What I respect Japanese engines for is their longevity. What other motor can boast of a chain that serves 200-250 thousand kilometers? I think that there are no analogues in the automotive world now. For the same Duratec, which is put on Ford, the timing chain drive serves at best 100,000 kilometers. Now I have completed only the running-in stage - the mileage is 60 thousand km. I poured new oil for permanent operation of Motul 5W30, so far I am completely satisfied with the sedan.
  3. Peter, St. Petersburg. Hello everyone! For a long time I dreamed of buying a Mazda 3, and in 2016 my dream came true. I bought a "Japanese" with a Skyactiv 1.6 engine in the Drive configuration. I have heard a lot about new Japanese engines, they write on the Internet that Skyactiv are technologically advanced, but very capricious. Modern fuel equipment does not tolerate low-quality fuel, therefore, if you refuel at unverified gas stations, then the risk of facing serious troubles after 100,000 km increases significantly. So far overcame 40,000 km - there were no breakdowns!

High-tech Skyactiv motors with PE-VPS marking do not forgive neglect. The owner of a Mazda 3 must monitor the quality of fuel and engine oil in order to exclude the occurrence of serious breakdowns at the first stage of operation of the car. Due to the high compression ratio in PE-VPS, the lubricant must only be original and comply with the manufacturer's recommendations. The optimal replacement frequency is every 8-10 thousand km.

Power units 2.0 l

  1. Mikhail, Moscow. I own a Mazda 3, a first-generation car, produced in 2004, a two-liter LF17 under the hood. I found interesting information on the network regarding this power unit. So, a sedan with LF17 in most cases delivers the first headache to the owner after 150,000 kilometers. The first symptom of a malfunction is increased oil consumption. But, if the engine is properly serviced even at the running-in stage, then many troubles in the future can be avoided. I have already covered over 250,000 km in my Mazda, and I can say that the increased appetite of the engine for fuel and oil consumption bypassed me. The car took a new one from the salon, and at first I did not turn the engine at all. Everyone says that 400,000 km is a real resource for the LF17, I am inclined to the same opinion.
  2. Vyacheslav, Tyumen. Those looking for durable and resource-intensive engines are advised to purchase a Mazda 3 with a 1.5 or 1.6 engine. These are new power units - high-tech, hardy, resourceful. I have a second generation modification with an LF-DE engine installed under the hood, Touring equipment with an automatic transmission. Since 2008, he has driven 210,000 kilometers behind the wheel. Only camshaft oil seals are delivered - changed several times during this time. The timing chain was replaced after 120,000 km - it began to knock - at the same time I replaced the pump and rollers, although they were still in good condition. So, why am I sure that a two-liter engine will pass 350,000, and a unit with a smaller volume is much larger? Here the logic is simple, the larger the internal combustion engine, the greater the temperature regime, the larger and heavier the piston, the less it will last!
  3. Andrey, Cheboksary. My brother and I have one car for two, which we inherited from our father. Mazda 3 was acquired in 2009, second generation, two-liter LF17 engine plus automatic transmission. The odometer is now 200,000 kilometers. Only recently have the timing chain and all related parts been replaced. A familiar craftsman said that a drive on this motor could last longer than 200 thousand km, but we, apparently, were not quite lucky. We service according to the regulations, only Motul 5W30 original oil. Perhaps some of us operate the car too aggressively, which is why the chain broke so early.

Mazda3 power units with a volume of two liters - LF17, LF-DE - are able to fully satisfy the needs of lovers of drive and high-speed driving. The motors provide excellent dynamics to the sedan, they are reliable and generally unpretentious. With high-quality and proper service, there are ways to cover 350 thousand kilometers.

2.5L engine

  1. Kirill, Moscow. Mazda 3, hatchback, 2.5 liter L5-VE engine. I took the car a year and a half ago with a used one, it is adapted for the American market. During operation, I changed the coolant, radiator, generator, cylinder head gasket, I even had to weld the intake manifold. Rumor has it that only the timing chain on this motor serves 250-300 thousand km. So the resource L5-VE is definitely rather big, probably more than 500,000 km with quality service.
  2. Evgeny, Sochi. I took my car with a mileage of 116 thousand km with a 2.5-liter L5-VE. I change the oil after 10,000 kilometers, I prefer to carry out this procedure at the officials. Now the mileage is 170,000 thousand km, the oil does not "eat", on the highway at a speed of 140 km / h consumption is about 10 liters, which is considered an excellent indicator.
  3. Ilya, Novosibirsk. I don’t know much about cars, but I know one simple truth: the better you follow the technique, the longer it will last. A friend of mine advised me to buy a Mazda 3 with a 2.5-liter engine, the car was brought after operation in the USA. The oil change was every 20 tyk, now I change it after 5-6 thousand km, so far the engine is working properly, was under diagnostics, they said it was in good condition, although the mileage is already 210,000 km. At the same time, the timing chain has never been changed.

A technologically and constructively complex motor, capable of breaking down for the most banal reason. When purchasing a car on the secondary market, it is important to find out about what kind of oil was poured into the car, the intervals for replacing the lubricant, which spark plugs and the octane number of the fuel to be refueled. Skyactiv motors are capable of covering 400,000 kilometers, but they are practically not amenable to major repairs.

PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the spark plugs.

Remove the right wheel.

Remove the right mudguard.

Loosen the coolant pump pulley bolt and remove the drive belt.

Remove the crankshaft position sensor.

Drain engine oil.

Disconnect the fuel lines by wrapping a cloth around the connecting fittings.

Remove the fuel pump drive belt.

Remove the fuel pump.

Remove the right joint shaft from the intermediate propeller shaft.

Remove the lower plug of the engine front cover.

REMOVING CRANKSHAFT PULLEY ATTACHMENT BOLT

Remove the bottom plug of the cylinder block.

Figure: 1. Installation of a special tool

Install the special tool (fig. 1).

Figure: 2. Installation of a special tool on the crankshaft: 1 - special tool

Hold the crankshaft with a special tool (fig. 2).

REMOVING THE CHAIN \u200b\u200bTENSIONER

Figure: 3. Installation of a special tool on the crankshaft: 1 - tensioner piston

Using a thin screwdriver, slide the chain tensioner ratchet away from the ratchet bar (fig. 3).

Slowly lower the tensioner piston. Hold the tensioner piston using 1.5mm wire or a paper clip.

Suspend the engine using the special attachments.

REMOVING THE TIMING CHAIN

Figure: 4. Fixation of the oil pump sprocket: 1 - special device

Secure the oil pump sprocket with a special tool (Fig. 4).

Then remove the sprocket and chain.

Figure: 5. Removing the front oil seal

Using a screwdriver, remove the front oil seal (fig. 5).

INSTALLING THE TIMING CHAIN

Figure: 6. Fixation of the oil pump sprocket: 1 - special device

Install the oil pump sprocket and secure it with a special tool (see Fig. 6).

Figure: 7. Installation of a special tool on the camshaft

Install the special tool on the camshaft (see fig. 7).

Install the timing chain.

Remove the retaining wire or paper clip from the automatic tensioner to tension the timing chain.

INSTALLING THE FRONT ENGINE COVER

Apply silicone sealant to the front engine cover in the locations shown in Figure 8.

Figure: 8. Places of applying sealant to the front cover of the engine

Install the cover 10 minutes after applying the sealant.

L3 engines do not require sealant in area C (see figure 8).

The thickness of the applied sealant: 2.0-3.0 mm for area A, 1.5-2.5 mm for area B.

Figure: 9. The order of tightening the bolts of the cylinder head cover

Install the cylinder head cover bolts in the order shown in Figure 9.

INSTALLING THE FRONT CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL

Apply clean engine oil to the oil seal. Press the oil seal lightly by hand.

Press in the oil seal using the special tool and a hammer (fig. 10).


Fig. 11 Front oil seal press-in diagram: 1 - hammer, 2 - special tool, 3 - engine front cover, 4 - front oil seal

INSTALLATION OF ENGINE RUBBER SUPPORT NO.3 AND ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET NO.3

Figure: 12. Threaded (welding) stud of the engine support bracket No. 3: 1 - stud

Tighten the threaded rod of the engine support bracket # 3 to a torque of 7-13 Nm (Fig. 12).

Figure: 13. The order of tightening the bolts and nuts of the engine mounting bracket No. 3

Tighten the # 3 engine mount bolt and nut in the order shown in figure 13.

INSTALLATION OF CRANKSHAFT PULLEY ATTACHMENT BOLT

Figure: 14. Installing a special tool on the camshaft

Install the special tool on the camshaft (see fig. 14).

Figure: 15. Locking bolt of the crankshaft pulley: 1 - bolt

Fit the M6x1.0 locking bolt and hand tighten (fig. 15).

Turn the crankshaft clockwise to TDC of the # 1 piston.

Figure: 16. Installation of a special tool on the crankshaft: 1 - special tool

Hold the crankshaft pulley with a special tool (see Fig. 16).

Tighten the crankshaft pulley fixing bolt in two steps: tighten the bolt to a torque of 96–104 N · m; tighten the bolt 87-93 °

Remove the M6x1.0 bolt. Remove the special tool from the camshaft.

Remove the special tool from the hole in the lower plug of the cylinder block.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise two turns to TDC of cylinder # 1 piston.

If the TDC position cannot be reached, loosen the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and repeat the above steps from the beginning.

Install the bottom plug of the cylinder block and tighten it with a torque of 18-22 Nm.

INSTALLING CYLINDER HEAD COVER


Figure: 17. Places of sealant application

Apply silicone sealant to the mating surfaces of the cylinder block in the locations shown by the arrows (Fig. 17).

The diameter of the point of application is 4.0–6.0 mm.

Install the cylinder head cover with a new gasket.

Figure: 18. The order of tightening the bolts of the cylinder head cover

Tighten the mounting bolts in the order shown in Figure 18, tightening torque 8-11.5 Nm.

Mazda 3 owners are wondering if the timing belt or chain is used in their car? Mazda 3 from 2003 to 2017, BK, BL and BM bodies, use a timing chain drive. The latest BM body in the petrol version also uses a "chain". This is confirmed by the official Mazda 3 operating manual. The belt drive ("belt") is used only in diesel versions, which are unpopular in Russia.

Mazda 3 - table of internal combustion engines and drives

In what cases is it necessary to replace the timing chain with a Mazda 3

Unlike the timing belt, the planned chain resource is about 200,000 km. Owners of used cars need to check and, if necessary, change the chain drive after reaching 150,000 km. Replacing the timing chain of the Mazda 3 is carried out in the presence of extraneous noise during the operation of the chain drive.

Please note: most of the time, extraneous noise can come from the alternator belt, not the timing chain. We also advise you to pay attention to the timing belt tensioner.

How to replace the timing chain with a Mazda 3 - step by step instructions + photo report

The disadvantage of a chain-driven gas distribution mechanism is a more laborious operation - replacing the timing chain of the Mazda 3.

Each driver who at least once independently changed the timing belt will confirm that this is much easier than replacing the Mazda 3 chain. It is better to carry out this procedure at a specialized service that has the necessary equipment, and entrust all operations to the specialists of the service station.

And so in order to change the timing chain to the Mazda 3, we will need to perform the following procedure:

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove spark plugs and ignition coils.
  3. Remove the air duct.
  4. Remove the air filter housing.
  5. Remove the mass air flow sensor.
  6. Disconnect the accelerator cable.
  7. Remove the expansion tank.
  8. Remove the power steering reservoir.
  9. Remove the right front wheel.
  10. Unscrew the right mudguard.
  11. Remove the accessory drive belt.
  12. Remove the power steering pump without disconnecting the hoses and fix it.
  13. Remove the generator.
  14. Remove the valve cover.
  15. Fix the crankshaft pulley using special tools and remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.
  16. Remove the front engine cover.
  17. Remove chain tensioner and left shoe.
  18. Turn the crankshaft clockwise and set the piston of the first cylinder to TDC.
  19. Align timing marks on camshaft sprockets.
  20. Remove the timing chain.
  21. Remove the right shoe.
  22. Install new spare parts in reverse order. Right shoe, then slide the chain onto the crankshaft sprocket first.
  23. Install the left shoe and tensioner.
  24. Make sure there is no slack in the chain and check that the sprockets are correctly installed.
  25. Crank the crankshaft 2 turns and check the valve opening and closing moments.
  26. Clean the front cover and apply sealant.
  27. Replace the crankshaft oil seal.
  28. Install the front cover.

Installing the timing chain Mazda 3 - video

All generations of Mazda 3 petrol engines use a reliable timing chain drive. The instruction manual only recommends that you check the chain drive function by ear. Replacing the timing chain of the Mazda 3 is not provided for by the regulations.

When is replacement necessary

Unlike the timing belt, the planned chain resource is about 200,000 km. Owners of used cars need to check and, if necessary, change the chain drive after reaching 150,000 km.

Replacing the timing chain of the Mazda 3 is carried out in the presence of extraneous noise during the operation of the chain drive.

Which belt or chain is better

In modern internal combustion engines, a chain or belt drive of the gas distribution mechanism is used.

Which is better - a chain or a timing belt? - owners of Mazda 3 are constantly interested. The main advantages of the chain drive are reliability and increased resource. The pluses of the timing chain also include:

  • no slippage of the drive;
  • gear ratio stability;
  • lack of pre-tension and additional loads on bearings and shafts;
  • preservation of performance at any temperature;
  • versatility.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing

The disadvantage of a chain-driven gas distribution mechanism is a more laborious operation - replacing the timing chain of the Mazda 3.

Each driver who at least once independently changed the timing belt will confirm that this is much easier than replacing the Mazda 3 chain. It is better to carry out this procedure at a specialized service that has the necessary equipment, and entrust all operations to the specialists of the service station.

Tools

To replace the timing chain of the Mazda 3, you need a special set of tools, such as:

  • Set for fixing the camshafts;
  • Crankshaft retaining bolt.

Stages

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove spark plugs and ignition coils.
  3. Remove the air duct.
  4. Remove the air filter housing.
  5. Remove the mass air flow sensor.
  6. Disconnect the accelerator cable.
  7. Remove the expansion tank.
  8. Remove the power steering reservoir.
  9. Remove the right front wheel.
  10. Unscrew the right mudguard.
  11. Remove the accessory drive belt.
  12. Remove the power steering pump without disconnecting the hoses and fix it.
  13. Remove the generator.
  14. Remove the valve cover.
  15. Fix the crankshaft pulley using special tools and remove the crankshaft pulley bolt.
  16. Remove the front engine cover.
  17. Remove chain tensioner and left shoe.
  18. Turn the crankshaft clockwise and set the piston of the first cylinder to TDC.
  19. Align timing marks on camshaft sprockets.
  20. Remove the timing chain.
  21. Remove the right shoe.
  22. Install new spare parts in reverse order. Right shoe, then slide the chain onto the crankshaft sprocket first.
  23. Install the left shoe and tensioner.
  24. Make sure there is no slack in the chain and check that the sprockets are correctly installed.
  25. Crank the crankshaft 2 turns and check the valve opening and closing moments.
  26. Clean the front cover and apply sealant.
  27. Replace the crankshaft oil seal.
  28. Install the front cover.
Replacing the timing chain Mazda 3 requires accuracy and attention. The bolts are tightened in a specific sequence and torque. If you decide to do the work yourself, strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions. Any deviations in the technology of work may cause reopening and engine repair.

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